clutch problem - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

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post #1 of 11 Old 03-22-2019, 11:21 AM Thread Starter
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clutch problem

Hey everyone. I replaced my clutch plates and cable and I did the work exactly as the manual said to and now I can not engage the clutch. any help would be greatly appreciated.
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post #2 of 11 Old 03-22-2019, 12:09 PM
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start by checking the actuator arm at the clutch end (it needs to be raised slightly above the case to properly engage), then check the cable routing and slack

Dave
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post #3 of 11 Old 03-22-2019, 03:56 PM Thread Starter
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It is raised about a 1/8" and its a new cable. The cable is routed the same as the old one. I know the cam is engaged but when i pull the clutch handle i can see the cam move a little then stops hard and wont disengage
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post #4 of 11 Old 03-22-2019, 04:30 PM
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I'll ask what year and model are you working on and if you used only genuine Kawasaki parts or some brand of clutch kit?

Tell us exactly what you used, including brands & part numbers.
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pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 85,000+ miles & counting
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post #5 of 11 Old 03-22-2019, 05:05 PM Thread Starter
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I am using ebc clutch kit part # drc168
Im riding a 2005 klr 650
I did notice that the clutch lifter has about a 1/16" to 1/8" play when i torque the five cap bolts. Is that normal?
I also put the old plates back in and its doing the same thing.
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post #6 of 11 Old 03-22-2019, 07:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdborra View Post
I am using ebc clutch kit part # drc168
Im riding a 2005 klr 650
I did notice that the clutch lifter has about a 1/16" to 1/8" play when i torque the five cap bolts. Is that normal?
I also put the old plates back in and its doing the same thing.
If I am not mistaken you are not the first person to have trouble with EBC clutch kit SPRINGS. I think they are too thickly wound for use on that age of KLR650.
They compress to 'coil-bind' before the pressure plate can move far enough to release (dis-engage) the clutch. You might just re-install your oem springs and try again.

The whole kit may or may not be incorrect for your year of bike.

There is a lot of clutch info over here, https://www.souperdoo.com/stuff%20th...-they-thinking

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 85,000+ miles & counting
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post #7 of 11 Old 03-22-2019, 07:46 PM Thread Starter
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So you think by putting in the old springs it will work?
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post #8 of 11 Old 03-23-2019, 09:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdborra View Post
I know the cam is engaged but when i pull the clutch handle i can see the cam move a little then stops hard and wont disengage
That statement ought to be your clue.

When I remove my oil filler cap and watch the pressure plate as I squeeze the lever, I can see & measure over 1 mm of clearance between pressure plate & 1st friction plate. What might be preventing your pressure plate from retracting?
Yes, I think it is a spring problem.

Didn't the EBC springs look & feel quite a bit thicker, tougher or longer?

I assume that the EBC kit had the same number of friction and steel plates as the oem plates that you removed, is this correct? I'll also assume that the EBC friction plates might have been just a touch thicker than the used OEM plates, which may or may not be why you replaced them.

Why did you feel the need to replace them?
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pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 85,000+ miles & counting
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post #9 of 11 Old 03-23-2019, 10:06 AM Thread Starter
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The ebc springs are a little longer but overall the same. The kit has the same number of friction plates and steel plates as original. The ebc plates are actually a little bit thinner then the original. Just to be clear i put everything back to original configuration and the operation of the clutch is doing the same thing. It's very hard to pull the handle and i dont see the clutch plate thru the oil fill hole moving. Like i said before the clutch lifter pin has a in and out play of i would guess about a 1/8" play. Is that normal.
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post #10 of 11 Old 03-23-2019, 03:52 PM
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I sounds as if you are not lifting the actuator shaft up thru the seal on the case a 1/4 inch and actually getting its hooked end to engage the center pull pin?

The cable clevis rivet on actuator shaft arm should be near aligned with the rear starter motor mount bolt tower when the actuator arm is engaged into the pull pin.
Lift up on the shaft as you try to rotate the arm into position.

With the actuator shaft engaged into the pull pin, one can use a 6 inch adjustable crescent wrench to test movement, with or without the cable connected.

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 85,000+ miles & counting
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