Bought my first KLR, what next? - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

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post #1 of 24 Old 03-26-2019, 03:34 PM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Jan 2019
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Bought my first KLR, what next?

Hey everyone, I just bought my first KLR 650 and it seems like a pretty decent one. It's a 2006 model with only 2200 miles and it's bone stock. It's a one-owner and aside from an oil change, I don't think the last owner has done any other maintenance. I'm trying to figure out what I need to do first. After buying the bike, I don't have a lot of extra money left so I need to do one thing at a time while I save up.

The tires are original and even though they have a ton of tread left, they are 13 years old so they have some age on them. Do I replace the tires first or are they ok to ride on for a while? Also, the doohickey mod has never been done, so should I do that first before I do anything else?

Thanks!
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post #2 of 24 Old 03-26-2019, 04:42 PM
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Welcome to the forum and congratulations on the KLR. The first thing I would do is replace the tires, change the oil + filter and bleed the brakes before I would ride it.
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post #3 of 24 Old 03-26-2019, 05:27 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roadrash83 View Post
Welcome to the forum and congratulations on the KLR. The first thing I would do is replace the tires, change the oil + filter and bleed the brakes before I would ride it.
That's kind of what I was thinking, but wanted to defer to the experts. So with the brakes, I'm just bleeding and not completely changing the fluid?

And for tires, what are the recommendations for a decent, inexpensive tire? I'm not going to be taking the bike on any long road trips for a while. Mostly doing backroad 2-lane paved roads and gravel roads. I'd say 60% paved and 40% offroad riding.
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post #4 of 24 Old 03-26-2019, 05:35 PM
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Olympus, I'll recommend that you read this posting, if you haven't already done so.
https://www.klrforum.com/introductio...kes-avoid.html

Remove the air filter & inspect the back-side for rot or mouse holes and confirm that it is Properly Oiled, Before riding your new acquisition.

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 84,000+ miles & counting
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post #5 of 24 Old 03-26-2019, 05:35 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdwestman View Post
Olympus, I'll recommend that you read this posting, if you haven't already done so.

https://www.klrforum.com/introductio...kes-avoid.html



Remove the air filter & inspect the back-side for rot or mouse holes and confirm that it is Properly Oiled, Before riding your new acquisition.


Read that thread already. It was my first stop. Thanks!
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post #6 of 24 Old 03-26-2019, 05:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Olympus View Post
That's kind of what I was thinking, but wanted to defer to the experts. So with the brakes, I'm just bleeding and not completely changing the fluid?

.
You will probably want to use a syringe to suck the old fluid out of the brake reservoirs (may even need to use a small tool to scrub any scum off of the inside of the reservoirs and rinse/suck that out with fresh fluid) and then purge fresh fluid thru the systems until only clear fresh fluid is coming out of the bleeder hose.
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pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 84,000+ miles & counting
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post #7 of 24 Old 03-27-2019, 06:14 AM
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Join Date: May 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdwestman View Post
You will probably want to use a syringe to suck the old fluid out of the brake reservoirs (may even need to use a small tool to scrub any scum off of the inside of the reservoirs and rinse/suck that out with fresh fluid) and then purge fresh fluid thru the systems until only clear fresh fluid is coming out of the bleeder hose.
This is good advice.

I would add that before you ever refill and pull the lever, BE SURE all that scum you scrubbed in the reservoir has been completely wiped away. The last thing you want it chunks of anything being pumped through the master cyl.

Never pick a fight with an old man.. If he's too old to fight, he'll just kill you..
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post #8 of 24 Old 03-27-2019, 09:54 AM
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Ditto on what the others said;

- change the oil and filter
- service the air filter
- inspect, lube and ensure the chain is properly tensioned
- replace and flush brake fluid and bleed the brakes
- make sure the acorn header nuts are torqued to spec
- replace the tires and tubes.
- check steering head bearing adjustment
- go over all other fasteners to ensure tightness

At that point, I'd be comfortable taking it for a ride. The doohickey should be done at your earliest convenience; do NOT attempt to adjust it. With 2200 miles it PROBABLY hasn't self destructed which makes replacement much easier.

A suspension service should be on your next "to do" list; take the rear linkage apart and lube, same with the pivot bolt. I'd also add a thermobob at some point if it was mine but that can wait if the budget is tight (though the benefit is highest the lower the mileage). After that there are dozens....no, hundreds of other mods you can do to make the bike better for what you want or need.

I bought a 2000 a couple years ago with 577 miles on it; I did the stuff above and the bike was perfect.......I needed a battery too. My tires had almost full tread at that mileage but



....now how about some pics?


Dave
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post #9 of 24 Old 03-27-2019, 10:02 AM
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With that age, changing the coolant would be a good idea also.
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post #10 of 24 Old 03-27-2019, 03:37 PM
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As already mentioned, the exhaust header acorn nuts.. They will work loose over time and blow out the gasket.

I would take out ( one at a time) clean and apply blue loctite and torque all 4 of the subframe bolts. Those are bolts that you'll want to make sure they stay torqued to spec. Some will tell you you need to upgrade to a harder grade bolt, but in reality, the stock bolts are fine as long as they stay tight.
Same thing with the foot peg bolts. take them out one at a time, clean threads and add blue loctite to those and torque to spec.

Another fastener that is important to keep tight is the muffler clamp under the airbox. An exhaust leak there could burn a hole into the airbox on the clean side of the filter and let dirty air into the intake.
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Never pick a fight with an old man.. If he's too old to fight, he'll just kill you..
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