2002 KLR that sat for a decade. - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

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post #1 of 21 Old 04-25-2019, 09:03 PM Thread Starter
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2002 KLR that sat for a decade.

Just got a 2002 that sat indoors for about 10 years. Not sure on miles, I can't remember what it was. I don't have it with me yet, family is bringing it up for me in the next couple weeks. Here's what I'm looking at doing to get it going:
-Carb/fuel tank flush (kit for rebuild on the way, just in case)
-Coolant flush
-Oil/filter
-Tires look new but still checking them
-Brakes and fluid
-Chain clean/lube/tension check
-Air filter
-Battery
-Cable inspection/lube if needed
-Fire it up and see how long it takes for me to drop it....

I know the PO, and yes it actually was running excellent before he stored it, after only going on two rides with it.

Am I overlooking anything? Not going to be able to ride it much before fire season gets rolling, but at least need to get a few miles in, it will be what I learn on since my VN700 rebuild is going slow.
Loving the forum, lots of good info, and I've already got a short list of must have mods for later this fall.
Thanks.

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post #2 of 21 Old 04-25-2019, 09:32 PM
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Paging @DPelletier to the white courtesy phone for a low-miles Gen 1 resurrection consult...

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“'Why' and 'How' are words so important they cannot be too often used.” -Napoleon Bonaparte

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post #3 of 21 Old 04-26-2019, 09:46 AM
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Welcome to the forum. Keep us in the loop on your progress. Sounds like you have it well under control. For the cost I would be replacing the tires and tubes.

My Kaw Barn - 2004 KLR, 2006 Concours (sold), 1997 Bayou 400.

"It's a friggen motorcycle, it's not supposed to be comfortable, quiet or safe. The wind noise is supposed to hurt your ears, the seat should be hard and riding it should make you shit your pants every now and then. "

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post #4 of 21 Old 04-26-2019, 10:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Schmitz View Post
Paging @DPelletier to the white courtesy phone for a low-miles Gen 1 resurrection consult...
Thanks Tom;

Yes, I bought a 577 mile 2000 a couple years ago. The bike was in exceptional condition and it fired up and ran (roughly) when I picked it up.

I planned on a full service and figured it needed a battery and the carb cleaned. Before I had a chance to clean the carb I took it for a ride with some Seafoam in the tank and it cleared out :-) The tires looked OK at first but when I changed them (hate the stock Dunlops), I realized how bad they really were...I shouldn't have ridden the bike at all with them.

Anyhow, since that time, I've had the bike almost completely torn apart and I've upgraded/changed more things than I can reasonably list but it is a joy to work on as every part is pretty much "as new".....heck, even the air filter was still clean and I don't think it had ever been serviced.

I think you have a good handle on what needs to be done. Good luck.

Dave
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post #5 of 21 Old 04-26-2019, 10:48 AM
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Just for the sake of it; here's my "Top New KLR Owner Mistakes to Avoid" list that was developed with help from Tom and Paul;

1) Oil drain plug overtightening: it is relatively common for people to overtighten the oil drain plug.....usually to stop a leak after the gasket/washer has inadvertently fallen into the used oil or left stuck to the bottom of the engine! best case is stripped threads, worst is a cracked case. Make sure the washer is in place and use a torque wrench Note; my manual says 17 ft lbs, Eaglemike recommends 15 ft lbs with his low profile drain plug which is what I use. Some Gen2 manuals specify 21 ft lbs but there has been no change in the plug or case which would affect the drain plug torque and people have stripped their drain plugs at this setting: beware!

- 2) Chain tension: many owners and some shops overtighten the KLR's drive chain; due to the long travel suspension and geometry the KLR needs more slack than other bikes people may be used to. If the chain is too tight you risk damaging the countershaft seal and bearing as well as possibly the wheel bearings along with premature wear of the drive chain and sprockets. Quick check; with the bike on the sidestand, you should be able to touch the chain to the bottom rearmost portion of the chain slipper but not the metal swingarm itself.

- 3) Speedo drive: it is common for people to post problems with their speedo after they've had the front wheel off. If you don't make sure the drive slots in the hub are aligned with the speedo drive tangs you risk bending the drive tangs and worse, breaking the hub. Time consuming to repair, expensive to replace, easy to avoid!

- 4) Oil Level: the factory KLR oil level sight glass is arguably too low....additionally some KLR's burn oil at various rates so it is imperative that the oil level is constantly checked. Luckily the sight glass makes this very easy to do. My suggestion is to keep the oil level at the very top of the sight glass with the bike level and to check it before every ride and at every fuel stop. The first failure from low oil levels is likely to be the cam bores in the head......and used KLR heads are getting difficult to find and are expensive. Keep an eye on that oil level!

- 5) Overtightening of other fasteners; similar to the oil drain plug there are a few other fasteners that cause significant problems if overtightened; the valve cover bolts are one such fastener - the manual calls up 69 inch lbs (NOT ft. lbs!) but Eaglemike suggests 55 in lbs which is a safer value. Another problem fastener is the footpeg mounting bolts; the factory nuts welded in the frame box are very thin with only 3 or 4 threads catching......these often strip out necessitating a repair. To avoid the problem, consider not using accessories that bolt to the bike using these bolts (i.e. centerstands) and torque them properly. I've heard that some manuals show 45NM (33 ft lbs) and some versions show 25 Nm (18 ft lbs)......I will suggest that the 33 ft lbs is a mistake and too much; I go with the 18 to avoid stripping the nuts and because this value falls in line with the recommended torque for generic 8mm fasteners in the manual. Safety wiring the bolt heads is also a wise precaution as loose bolts take the threads out quickly.

- 6) Throwing away the tube when changing the oil filter. People often mistakenly toss the metal tube that is inserted in the oil filter when they throw the old filter in the trash....make sure it's there and put it back in the right way.

- 7) attempting a counterbalance lever (doohickey) adjusting bolt adjustment without first ensuring the lever and spring are both intact and the spring has tension. Failure to do so can introduce a catastrophic amount of play into the counterbalance chain system.

-8) Not checking fasteners for proper torque at least at every oil change. Especially foot pegs and sub-frame bolts. The fasteners that Kawasaki put in place are adequate, but once torque falls below spec vibration can loosen the fastener. A loose fastener will quickly fail if it is under load.

-9) Not properly oiling your air filter. I prefer foam filter oil but regardless of what you choose to use, ensure your foam filter is thoroughly oiled and seated or dust will destroy your engine.

- 10) Not checking to make sure your clean side airbox drain tube and plug are present and accounted for; This tube often gets pulled off (some people shorten it to help with this) and if it does your engine will ingest non-filtered air which can dust out and destroy your engine. ….while you’re in the area, also check to make sure your header to mid pipe junction is tight otherwise you can melt your airbox causing much the same problem.
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post #6 of 21 Old 04-26-2019, 10:50 AM
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As far as mods go; they are all personal preference based on wants, needs, expectations, usage and budget but there are two I would strongly recommend for a low mileage Gen1: Eaglemike "doohickey" replacement with torsion spring and Watt-Man's Thermobob 2.

Dave
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post #7 of 21 Old 04-26-2019, 10:51 AM
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post #8 of 21 Old 04-26-2019, 10:52 AM
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post #9 of 21 Old 04-26-2019, 12:18 PM Thread Starter
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The bike may have a fairly decent amount of miles on it, PO was not the first owner, he bought from a guy that owned a motorsports dealership so it might have gotten some use, but it's just so dang clean, except the faded fairings, that I'm not sure. Haven't been in front of it since three years ago when it was first offered to me.
And yeah, the two different shinko's I'm looking at are pretty inexpensive so a tire change will probably happen, although they look way better than what you had.
The doohicky is the first mod happening, don't even want to worry about that going bad.
I think that list was one of the first posts I read when I joined ha.

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post #10 of 21 Old 04-26-2019, 01:42 PM
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Well, don't be shy; show us some pics when you get her.

....and just FYI, the tires looked fine until I squeezed them when they were dismounted - you couldn't see anything wrong when they were on the bike.

Dave
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