Mechanical noob - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

  • 1 Post By pdwestman
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post #1 of 4 Old 04-29-2019, 12:50 PM Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2019
Posts: 1
Mechanical noob

So I purchased a 2004 klr when I was living in montana and absolutely love it. I brought it to an uncle's house to store it in Massachusetts for a year while I went off for work. When i returned i brought it into a local shop to get it fixed up (including a carb cleaning) and ready to ride again. Fast forward a few months down the timeline and i have moved back to the Rockies, this time Wyoming. I took the ol mule put for a little exploratory riding and everything g seemed fine, except the exhaust smelt more like gas than normal. I had been riding it regularly the previous 4 months in Georgia and didn't have a problem, but now I'm sitting 5000 feet above my precious locations and figures I need to adjust the jets to get the mix right again. I've looked at videos and read pages on how too and i think mik I've got that down, but how do i know when I've got the mix right? The videos and posts I've seen haven't explained what the goal is. Thanks for the help in advance.
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post #2 of 4 Old 04-29-2019, 06:32 PM
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Lander, Wyoming
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A stock & standard KLR650 will run just fine from 0 - 10,000 ft + on stock & standard jetting. But neither you, nor I, nor the rest of us know what the previous owner and previous shops may have done to your bike.
We need more specific information.

Don't concern yourself much about exhaust Smell, its behind you.

How does it RUN? And what is your average fuel mileage Currently?

I live at 5347 ft. What was your MT altitude?
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Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 85,000+ miles & counting
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post #3 of 4 Old 05-01-2019, 10:43 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Kelowna, B.C.
Posts: 2,546
What Paul said; the CVK is largely self adjusting for altitude. I would confirm the needle and jetting.....stock is fine or get a KLX kit and follow the instructions; only then will you know what you have.

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post #4 of 4 Old 05-01-2019, 07:24 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Los Angeles, CA
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I agree with the above comments. You need to figure out what you've got, and then move through your process. Some guys are looking for a "set it to this and you'll be golden" type of information, while others want additionally to know why, and still others (i.e., yours truly) are more down to experiment with a lot of (or all the) settings so they know for themselves what's what. Whichever approach you take, you'll first need to be able to say what you have in the bike.

I'll add some links that with information about rejetting. Seems there are a variety of opinions on the topic. Since you're asking about "how do I know when it's right," they may be helpful (or not).

Here's one from FactoryPro. This is a personal favorite of mine, as it provides a routine that (a) is focused on a particular goal [power], (b) feels rational in that it implies an awareness and adjustment to every part of the carb circuit, and (c) feels comprehensive in that it provides a number of ways to "judge" or "sense" richness or leanness.

Reading this got me down the road of paying attention to the overlap between the idle, pilot, needle and main circuits, and also made me aware of the potential to use engine temperature (cold, operating, hot) to gain insight about what was happening with the mix.

The overwhelming emphasis on power implied by the routine also started me thinking about the different motives in setting up the carb. Personally, I look for smooth feels and sure acceleration, which dovetails nicely with this guy's approach. Note: this surely comes at the expense of fuel economy.

Here's one from the "junkman."
This guys has a series of videos that, while junky in style, had some valuable background info about how carbs work.

Here's an interesting one from a guy who settles on a configuration well outside the norm. Granted, his bike is all souped up and whatnot but it's worth the read, if not for specific information then at least for background.

And here's an instruction sheet from Schnitz racing that talks about the KLX needle. Notice this quote: "A less restrictive exhaust system, and/or air box mods, may need a main jet in the #142.5 to 150 range. The stock main jet (#148 for 87 to 07, #145 for the 08+) often works well. It may also need the needle circlip in the #3 or 4 position." But also pay attention to what it says about altitude.

I also found the comments interesting on Schnitz' page where they sell the KLX needle.

And lastly, here's a tech book.
Super informative, if you really want to go that far.

2017 KLR in black

Last edited by samuel; 05-01-2019 at 07:27 PM.
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