Diaphragm and Slider Problem - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

 
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post #1 of 4 Old 09-29-2009, 10:25 PM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
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Diaphragm and Slider Problem

Hey guys, I've got a problem with my bike Anyway, the previous owner said he cleaned the carb out which is all and good, except I think he messed up. When the bike is hot, the idle shoots to 2000 and more, also when in neutral, if I give her gas to impress the ladies haha, she'll take nearly 10 seconds to go back down to idle. ALSO, I have nearly no power, none whatsoever after half throttle or more. I know absolutely nothing about carbs and the like so I went into the Clymer's and read about it. I can only deduce that the diaphragm could possibly be torn and or pinched. Does this sound like a plausible diagnosis?

If so, is it necessary to replace any gaskets to replace this part? Also, do I need to remove the gas tank, all the junk, and the carb in order to work on the diaphragm?

Thanks a lot and sorry for the drawn out post!
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post #2 of 4 Old 09-29-2009, 11:00 PM
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You're probably right about the Diaphram.
Get one from a Harley shop.
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post #3 of 4 Old 09-30-2009, 08:53 PM
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Bunkfoss

Metalbender is right, removing the tank makes it easier and it's not hard.

There is a plate on the right hand side that holds the throttle cables that is held by one screw. Removing that screw and releasing the plate will allow you to disconnect the cables.

Loosening the clamps that are fore and aft of the carb will allow you to rotate the carb.

If you have the tank off, then you can rotate the carb slightly to remove the screws in the cap and lift the diaphragm assembly out.

A caution, however. The choke cable terminates in an elbow that goes into a plastic fitting. You must pull the elbow fully out of the fitting before rotating the carb or that fitting will break. Bad juju and a pain in the butt...

If you do not remove the tank, then you will need to remove that fitting before the carb will rotate enough to get access to the cap.

I find that removing the tank takes less time than trying to get that fitting out of the carb.

If you break that fitting there is a metal replacement available that is much sturdier. Perhaps better still, there is a pull-choke assembly from another bike that eliminates the choke cable altogether. I don't remember the bike offhand - it might be the KLX.

Someone will know...(a little help here? Paper?)

Tom
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post #4 of 4 Old 10-01-2009, 07:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Schmitz View Post
If you break that fitting there is a metal replacement available that is much sturdier. Perhaps better still, there is a pull-choke assembly from another bike that eliminates the choke cable altogether. I don't remember the bike offhand - it might be the KLX.

Someone will know...(a little help here? Paper?)

Tom
Yep.. The choke plunger from a KLX250 from 10 or so years ago is a direct fit. No cables, no lever, but just a little push/pull plunger on the carb..

I broke my lever on my handlebar, and heard about the plunger.. It was cheap, and other than it's a little bit of a pain to use without looking until you get used to it, it's wonderful!!

I think we used the diagram from a 1997 KLX.. I'm sure most of the years are the same until the recent change to the bike.
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