2002 KLR650 15,000 miles, Electrical problem starting - Page 2 - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

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post #11 of 35 Old 06-19-2019, 08:50 AM
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I like the battery advice. I had a similar issue with my Goldwing. Chased around trying to find the problem. Replaced battery and vroom, vroom.

My Kaw Barn - 2004 KLR, 2006 Concours (sold), 1997 Bayou 400.

"It's a friggen motorcycle, it's not supposed to be comfortable, quiet or safe. The wind noise is supposed to hurt your ears, the seat should be hard and riding it should make you shit your pants every now and then. "

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post #12 of 35 Old 06-19-2019, 09:45 AM
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That sort of short (a sizzling sound) would usually be accompanied by a strong ozone odor, the smell of melting plastic, and smoke. If you look down at the relay area and don't see melted insulation then there likely isn't a short anywhere.

When the battery is bad it will not deliver enough amperage to turn the starter and turn the engine. That is usually accompanied by a buzzing sound as the relay attempts to turn the starter motor.

I would look first at the battery being kaput. Voltage is not an indicator of battery state. It is entirely possible for a battery to show more than 12.6 volts but for the individual cells to be sulfated such that the battery will not deliver any current. What you need to perform is a load test, which any auto parts store can do for you. Charge the battery on a good charger and then take it for a load test over at the NAPA, O'Reilly, or Advance auto parts store

Batteries will also bounce back on voltage. In one of my fits of Wierd Science, I flattened a battery by leaving it connected to a bulb until it showed only about 2 or 3 volts. It was deader than Jacob Marley. It bounced back to over 11 volts and I was able to kick start a Gen 2 with it.

That you are able to start the engine sometimes would indicate that the battery is on its last legs. Load test it and replace if it doesn't pass. Batteries are a consumable with a three or four-year life expectancy if they are treated right. Frankly, a 2002 with less than a thousand miles a year on it hasn't treated the battery right. I'd wager that the bike hasn't been ridden much in the last few years and the battery has gone flat several times and been recharged. That's mighty hard on a battery.

BTW, a typical KLR will go 200-220 miles before needing to be switched to reserve. There's really no reason to ever go on reserve because the seat is such an ass-hatchet that you'll need to stop after a couple of hours. Might as well get gas. Do mover the lever around from time to time just to keep the gasket in good shape. In fact, bo old-school and turn it off when you park it.

Tom [email protected]

“Neither of the two people in the room paid any attention to the way I came in, although only one of them was dead.” -Philip Marlowe

“'Why' and 'How' are words so important they cannot be too often used.” -Napoleon Bonaparte


Sting like a butterfly.

Last edited by Tom Schmitz; 06-19-2019 at 09:49 AM.
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post #13 of 35 Old 06-19-2019, 07:37 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, I just got home from work with a fancy load tester. I’m going to test it after dinner and I will update you on my results. Thank for all the help guys!
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Originally Posted by Tom Schmitz View Post
That sort of short (a sizzling sound) would usually be accompanied by a strong ozone odor, the smell of melting plastic, and smoke. If you look down at the relay area and don't see melted insulation then there likely isn't a short anywhere.

When the battery is bad it will not deliver enough amperage to turn the starter and turn the engine. That is usually accompanied by a buzzing sound as the relay attempts to turn the starter motor.

I would look first at the battery being kaput. Voltage is not an indicator of battery state. It is entirely possible for a battery to show more than 12.6 volts but for the individual cells to be sulfated such that the battery will not deliver any current. What you need to perform is a load test, which any auto parts store can do for you. Charge the battery on a good charger and then take it for a load test over at the NAPA, O'Reilly, or Advance auto parts store

Batteries will also bounce back on voltage. In one of my fits of Wierd Science, I flattened a battery by leaving it connected to a bulb until it showed only about 2 or 3 volts. It was deader than Jacob Marley. It bounced back to over 11 volts and I was able to kick start a Gen 2 with it.

That you are able to start the engine sometimes would indicate that the battery is on its last legs. Load test it and replace if it doesn't pass. Batteries are a consumable with a three or four-year life expectancy if they are treated right. Frankly, a 2002 with less than a thousand miles a year on it hasn't treated the battery right. I'd wager that the bike hasn't been ridden much in the last few years and the battery has gone flat several times and been recharged. That's mighty hard on a battery.

BTW, a typical KLR will go 200-220 miles before needing to be switched to reserve. There's really no reason to ever go on reserve because the seat is such an ass-hatchet that you'll need to stop after a couple of hours. Might as well get gas. Do mover the lever around from time to time just to keep the gasket in good shape. In fact, bo old-school and turn it off when you park it.
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post #14 of 35 Old 06-19-2019, 07:40 PM Thread Starter
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The battery that is currently in the bike now is in the picture below. If I need a new one any suggestions on what to buy?
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File Type: jpg 37D09AEE-7919-4110-9029-ECC3747E7AC0_1560991111653.jpg (444.5 KB, 5 views)
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post #15 of 35 Old 06-19-2019, 08:41 PM Thread Starter
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Tested my battery with SOC 140 VRLA battery internal profile analyzer (fancy load tester). It tested 100% good! Should I still replace the battery? I have a video and pictures of my test if I can post the video I will.
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post #16 of 35 Old 06-19-2019, 08:58 PM Thread Starter
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Ok guys, I borrowed a fancy battery load tester from work today. My battery tested 100% good but it’s the first time I have tested a battery like this. Should I take it into batteries plus tomorrow and have them test it? What’s next? I’m attaching a video of my test below
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post #17 of 35 Old 06-19-2019, 09:02 PM Thread Starter
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I posted this problem in another thread so if that’s a bad thing please delete one of them. I was excited to get some help and thought that this was probably the wrong thread to post my issue on. Link to the other thread is 2002 KLR650 15,000 miles, Electrical problem starting
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post #18 of 35 Old 06-19-2019, 09:04 PM Thread Starter
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Sorry I guess my link didn’t work trying again https://www.klrforum.com/forumindex.php#/topics/70931

Last edited by Dennis Wallace; 06-19-2019 at 09:06 PM.
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post #19 of 35 Old 06-19-2019, 10:10 PM
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It seems you have a good battery.

What state of charge was indicated?

What you need to do now is begin to trace the wiring from the starter switch all the way through the starter circuit relay and on to the starter relay. Examine every wire near the connectors and the connectors themselves. Look for evidence of corrosion. Plug and unplug each connection to renew the connection. Test the starter circuit relay.

Tom [email protected]

“Neither of the two people in the room paid any attention to the way I came in, although only one of them was dead.” -Philip Marlowe

“'Why' and 'How' are words so important they cannot be too often used.” -Napoleon Bonaparte


Sting like a butterfly.
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post #20 of 35 Old 06-19-2019, 10:18 PM Thread Starter
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100% charge indicated... That’s what I thought you would say. I have done most of that and maybe that’s why it’s working now? I just got a new Starter relay and start circuit relay in the mail today. What I haven’t done yet is take the tank off to follow the wires from relays to the start switch. I guess that’s my next step.
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Originally Posted by Tom Schmitz View Post
It seems you have a good battery.

What state of charge was indicated?

What you need to do now is begin to trace the wiring from the starter switch all the way through the starter circuit relay and on to the starter relay. Examine every wire near the connectors and the connectors themselves. Look for evidence of corrosion. Plug and unplug each connection to renew the connection. Test the starter circuit relay.
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