Stuck Bolts on Front Brake Caliper - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

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post #1 of 7 Old 09-30-2009, 01:56 AM Thread Starter
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Stuck Bolts on Front Brake Caliper

It's time to replace my brake pads. The two Allen wrench bolts holding the front caliper to the bike absolutely will not come loose. In case there's any question which bolts I mean, here's a link to a photo. The bolts are marked with red dots in the second photo from the top.

I just spent about half an hour spraying them with WD-40, knocking them with a hammer, and twisting them with a short-handled Allen wrench. I decided to hit them with the WD-40 one last time and let them soak overnight. What do you recommend I try next if they won't come loose in the morning?

Can anyone think of a way to lengthen the small Allen wrench's handle so I'll have better leverage?

Any suggestions regarding penetrating lubes? I've read a lot of good things about PB Blaster.
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post #2 of 7 Old 09-30-2009, 05:20 AM
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Try a 3/8 drive hex bit socket like this.......

The L handle wrench you are using is just flexing too much to transfer the torque needed to break the fastener loose. could try a long cheater pipe to slip over what you have been using. One of three things could happen, you could bend the allen wrench, you could break it, or it may just work.

Gray-haired riders donít get that way from pure luck.


Last edited by flash; 09-30-2009 at 05:34 AM. Reason: Engrish
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post #3 of 7 Old 09-30-2009, 06:26 AM
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Don't be scared when they CRACK when they actually break free.. By crack, I mean it'll be a loud crack sound and if you're not wearing gloves on an allen wrench, it'll hurt your hand a bit.

And use a bit of never-seize on the bolts when you put them back in.
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post #4 of 7 Old 09-30-2009, 06:40 AM
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I don't understand the reasoning behind overtorquing bolts... never have.
When I pulled my front sprocket, I was just about to give up, when it broke loose, sending my breaker bar and socket flying. Audible "crack"? VERY audible. I thought it had broken the socket.
Makes no sense to tighten that much.

Anyway... what Flash said... get a piece of 1/4" pipe about a foot long to slip over the end of the L-driver as a cheater bar, if you can't find the proper 3/8 drive hex driver that he pictured.
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post #5 of 7 Old 10-03-2009, 11:34 PM
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What I use in a case like this is an allen socket with a impact driver and hammer.
I have better results doing t this way so that I don't round off the inside of the allen bolt. Then if you do that you will be in BIG trouble!!!
Make sure you have the proper fitting socket in any case! I think that it is 8mm.
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post #6 of 7 Old 10-04-2009, 02:42 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for your replies, everyone.

It turned out all I needed was a short socket wrench (~12 inches) with an 8 mm hex socket. The bolts did crack when they broke free. I bought a can of PB Blaster, but didn't need it. At least I'll have it on hand for the future.

Paper, I followed your advice and bought a tube of anti-seize.
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post #7 of 7 Old 04-27-2017, 01:20 PM
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Thumbs down Klr 650

I am having issues trying to change front breaks. one of the bolts seem to be alittle stripped and every time I apply pressure to turn it just gives and i dont want to make it worse
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