Eagle Mike Fork Brace - Page 2 - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

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post #11 of 23 Old 09-19-2019, 07:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VTWoodchuck View Post
On a Gen 2 I think you can only raise them up in the clamps 2" or less to avoid running out of clearance between the tire and fender mount bolts at full compression. The specs list the front fork travel as 7.9". On my 2017 I have my tubes raised up 1" in my clamps and when measured from the top of the tire to the fender mounting bolts with the weight off the bike on my service jack stand I only had 9" remaining. This means there is less than 1" inch left to raise them if I ever decide to change my rear links to -2" rather than the -1" that I have now. I'm leaving it where it is because I want to leave some tolerance for different tire tread heights as all tire brands vary. My bike is lowered 1" front and rear and I gained another 2" with my Sargent "Low" seat so I've gained 3" to get both balls of my feet on the ground when stopped.

Kev
VTWoodchuck, I think not.

I'll ask you to loosen the top clamp of either fork boot and push it a far Down as possible & re-clamp it.
Now measure the available travel to the underside of the lower triple clamp.

The fork boot will be coil bound before tire can touch the fender, except for fender shake thru speed dips & pot-holes at the front & rear areas. I have left a tire contact mark on the rear section of a Gen 2 F. fender. And I was trying really hard. A jump landing might touch the front of the front fender.

pdwestman
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post #12 of 23 Old 09-19-2019, 08:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdwestman View Post
VTWoodchuck, I think not.

I'll ask you to loosen the top clamp of either fork boot and push it a far Down as possible & re-clamp it.
Now measure the available travel to the underside of the lower triple clamp.

The fork boot will be coil bound before tire can touch the fender, except for fender shake thru speed dips & pot-holes at the front & rear areas. I have left a tire contact mark on the rear section of a Gen 2 F. fender. And I was trying really hard. A jump landing might touch the front of the front fender.
If what you mean by coil bound is the shock boot is fully compressed I understand what you are saying but I prefer not to rely on using my fork boots as a stopper for my fork travel even if that is correct. That would mean that there is even less travel that the 7.9" listed in the specs? The good news is the heavier front and rear springs on the models after 2015 make it less likely that I'll bottom out. Cheers.

Kev

Last edited by VTWoodchuck; 09-19-2019 at 08:47 PM.
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post #13 of 23 Old 09-19-2019, 09:28 PM
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If there is lets say 7.9 inches of available mechanical travel of the fork legs and the fork boot 'Coil Binds' at 8.1 inches of travel, it really doesn't matter if one has stiffer springs or not if one reduces available travel to 7.4 inches, does it?
It only means the fork legs are less likely to use the remaining available 7.39555 inches of available travel, before Bottoming, on the coil bound fork boots!

pdwestman
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post #14 of 23 Old 09-19-2019, 11:45 PM
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Originally Posted by pdwestman View Post
If there is lets say 7.9 inches of available mechanical travel of the fork legs and the fork boot 'Coil Binds' at 8.1 inches of travel, it really doesn't matter if one has stiffer springs or not if one reduces available travel to 7.4 inches, does it?
It only means the fork legs are less likely to use the remaining available 7.39555 inches of available travel, before Bottoming, on the coil bound fork boots!
I think we are in violent agreement? By your calculation you could raise the in the clamps a maximum of 2.6" above the clamps before bottoming on the "coil bound" fork boots. That still limits the lowering options to 2" lowering links in the rear and 2" fork rise in the front to leave .6" for height variation in slightly taller/deeper tread tires.

Cheers
Kev
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post #15 of 23 Old 09-20-2019, 09:30 AM
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I've always said (despite my dislike of lowering in general) that 2" is the max the forks should be "lowered". I still don't think the fork boots have a hope of stopping tire movement before the forks mechanically bottom on a heavy hit.

Dave
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post #16 of 23 Old 09-20-2019, 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by VTWoodchuck View Post
I think we are in violent agreement? By your calculation you could raise the in the clamps a maximum of 2.6" above the clamps before bottoming on the "coil bound" fork boots. That still limits the lowering options to 2" lowering links in the rear and 2" fork rise in the front to leave .6" for height variation in slightly taller/deeper tread tires.

Cheers
Kev
No that is not what I was trying to say. I did not get that typed correctly.

I should have simply said, if one slides the fork tubes up thru the clamps on either Generation of KLR any appreciable amount the fork boots will be Fully Packed or coil bound before the front tire can bottom out and Skid on the front fender.

I just slide the OEM fork boot down to full compression on a properly mounted (only aluminum top caps above triple clamp) fully extended fork leg on a Gen2. I can only measure 7 & 3/4 inch of available travel.

So maybe one could get the full 7.9 inches of travel on a Gen 2 if we recessed the top caps Down into the triple clamp!
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pdwestman
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post #17 of 23 Old 09-20-2019, 01:31 PM
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Originally Posted by pdwestman View Post
I just slide the OEM fork boot down to full compression on a properly mounted (only aluminum top caps above triple clamp) fully extended fork leg on a Gen2. I can only measure 7 & 3/4 inch of available travel.
I'd suggest that a sufficient hit wil compress the boots the extra 0.15" beyond "coil bound" condition and full travel will be utilized.

Dave
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post #18 of 23 Old 09-20-2019, 02:55 PM
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My only point was that 2" is about as much as you should go even with the compressed fork boot acting as a bumper stop. At the risk of starting another tangent, 2" it is also about as much as you should drop the rear end with lowing links because of the risk of the swing arm banging into the exhaust can when the rear shock is compressed especially with the stock OEM exhaust that has the large lower chamber. (see arrows on attached picture) As you know, there is no reason to drop the front end more than the rear end. I've opted to lower mine only 1" and have a 2" lower seat to get my 29" legs on my 5'8" frame of my tattered 63 year old body 3" closer to the ground with out compromising the bikes design any more than necessary. Cheers

Kev
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Last edited by VTWoodchuck; 09-20-2019 at 03:14 PM.
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post #19 of 23 Old 09-20-2019, 08:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DPelletier View Post
I'd suggest that a sufficient hit wil compress the boots the extra 0.15" beyond "coil bound" condition and full travel will be utilized.

Dave
Now back to the original discussion.

Do any of you think that any brand of fork brace WON'T interfere with full travel of the front suspension on either Gen?

pdwestman
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post #20 of 23 Old 09-30-2019, 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by MTKKLR View Post
Hi Dave thanks for the timely response as always. I do try to find an existing thread on a topic before I start a new one but oh well. Ive heard good things about the brace, The front end of my KLR does get bounced around pretty easily when I'm cruising down the road. I don't take this thing off-road really so im hoping this suits my needs. Ill post my opinion on the brace after a few hundred miles or so on it. Thanks again.
Hello MTKKLR, your front end instability may be due to your suspension setup. If the race-sag is not set correctly, especially if the rear of the bike is too low relative to the front, instability at speed will be the result. A front fork brace will not compensate for incorrect race-sag.

Jason
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