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Gen 1 Brake Upgrade Path

8K views 20 replies 6 participants last post by  ILove2Ride2Wheels 
#1 ·
Hey Guys,

Finally have time and space to put my klr back together. Been apart for 5 years.

Before it became a project I had swapped the front master cylinder to the cbr1000 with a ss line. Huge improvement. Really liked the longer handle and the adjustable reach as my hands aren't very big.

Somehow between moves I misplaced the front caliper all together. So I'm in the market for a new caliper. Just found out about the sv650 caliper.

Currently have michilin t63 tires so don't need/want super grabby/touchy brakes. Living in an area where I can finally start getting some off road time.

I do not want to go back to the factory master so my question is would the sv caliper and 320mm rotor plus my already existing cbr master be too much?

Out of all the research I've done so far I can't find any info on this specifically. I know people recommend the sv and 320mm and ss combo all the time but only read about people using the cbr master with the stock caliper.

Sorry for the long post. Just want to be thorough with my explanation.

Thanks
 
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#2 ·
I know of one guy that uses the CBR master (not sure if it's the same one you have or not) with the SV and 320mm rotor; he likes it. Personally, I find the stock master to work well with the SV caliper, EBC 320mm rotor, russel ss lines and the dime mod.

Basically, the master can change the feel, the fluid ratio and leverage (effort) required but it does absolutely nothing for braking power like the larger rotor (increased leverage due to the larger diameter rotor) and the SV caliper (larger friction surface). Feel is a bit of a personal preference but I certainly wouldn't worry about the brakes being too powerful - I don't believe that's an issue.

I say go ahead and if you don't like the feel then swap back in the stock MC. I strongly recommend getting the SV caliper adaptor and EBC rotor from Eaglemike as there are more than one EBC 320 listed for the KLR and the wrong one has had fitment issues.

regards,
Dave
 
#3 ·
I can only suggest that your intended set up should work fine. If you install organic or kevlar based brake pads they may give a softer 'bite' than sintered brake pads.

I can pretty easily adapt from bikes with whimpy, whole hand brake to one finger braking. I like a 2 finger front brake.
 
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#4 ·
Thanks for the input guys.

Haven't owned a bike with better brakes than the klr so wasn't sure if there was such a thing as too much brakes especially off road which I'm also extremely new to.

I did plan on getting some galfer greens possibly to lessen the initial "bite" like you stated. Also wanted them to keep my rotor in decent condition considering their cost. Made the mistake of using some hh ebc pads last time on the stock rotor which tore it up.
 
#7 ·
Haven't owned a bike with better brakes than the klr so wasn't sure if there was such a thing as too much brakes especially off road which I'm also extremely new to.
There isn't; some people that have little offroad experience sometimes suggest otherwise but having good brakes offroad is extremely important and the thought that weak brakes are some sort of benefit offroad is in serious error. I've ridden and raced offroad since 1975.

Dave
 
#5 ·
Wow, never better brakes than the KLR? That's amazing.

KLR

Gen 1 = life threatening.
Gen 2 = Slightly less life threatening.

Gen 1 320mm rotor and double piston upgrade are required in my mind.

Now I'm a bit porky. Which no doubt adds to my issues but man, the original brakes are not good.
 
#6 ·
Ive never ridden my KLR on stock brakes so can’t say how bad they might be, but I have stock rotors & calipers. Mine does have Gafler SS braided lines. Not sure of the pads.

However, the combination I have is amazing. Firm brakes with a serious bite. Even with the stock 21” front wheel. My 19” front wheel puts a bigger tire patch on the ground and does work better.

I would suggest to anyone that has a lack of confidence in their brakes to first - before pad, rotor, etc. changes - install SS braided lines.

All stock rubber lines have the same problem. They swell as pressure is applied. That lessens the effectiveness of the caliper’s ability to push the pads together and actually slow you down.


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#8 ·
you are right on the swelling of the stock lines and the benefits of the SS lines but they only affect feel and lever effort/travel.....well unless you can bottom the piston or lever before locking up the brakes. For the OP's benefit when he's reading your post, I'll point out that you have a Gen2 which has better brakes than a Gen1 though I'm with Mr. Zappo; stock Gen2 brakes are marginally OK, stock Gen1 front is dangerously weak. The SV caliper is even better than the stock Gen2 caliper but not enough for most to bother with a swap.

Dave
 
#10 ·
Back in 1987 the Gen1 brakes were just as bad but they SEEMED better 'cause disk brakes were a relatively new thing. After a few decades of bikes with decent brakes, the KLR's sad brakes haven't stood the test of time.

Pretty sure if I could throw a leg over my 1982 RM250Z race bike again, I'd be shocked with how bad those drum brakes are.....but back then, we didn't know any better!

Dave
 
#13 ·
Yes, I also use SS lines to improve feel, modulation, etc. ....I did use the SS lines on the stock brakes before the other upgrades and it felt better but still had minimal braking power.

You know, that’s actually scary to think about. Would the wheel lock below 25 mph? The drum brakes I’ve had in motorcycles would do that. So just trying to put it in perspective.

I’m also assuming pads were okay material? Rotor not too hard of a material? Just average organic pads and mild steel rotors.



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#15 ·
Ok, those are scary brakes. I’m happy I have a Gen2 as the brakes work very well for me. Guess I’m going to have to try a panic stop instead of just my normal hard braking and see what it does.

I cruise at 80 on the highway as that’s the average speed most cars go as well. I might go a few mph more if traffic doesn’t provide sufficient safe distances between vehicles - meaning they’ll crawl up my rear - and get into better lane positions.

I do ride my motorcycles - all of them that I’ve owned - hard. Just as if I stole it. So I do push them to their limits at times. Street limits I should specify as I’m not a long time off road rider. I need to find out just what my brake limits are. Not just my basic testing, but serious panic stops. I might really need to know that some day.


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#16 · (Edited)
You DO have steel-wrapped front brake hose, don't you, ILove2? That modification alone increases your brake modulation control. Caliper response will be crisper, and . . . in a braking situation, an instant of response time translates to increased safety distance.

And . . . I'd CERTAINLY expect you to have an oversize (320 mm diameter, stock is only 280 mm) front brake rotor (such parts appear available for Generation 2s), for obvious geometric/physical reasons.

And . . what BRAKE PADS will you use? Coefficients of friction, perhaps resistance to fade, vary.

Otherwise . . . 80 mph on crowded southern California freeways . . . these suggestions may save you accident and injury. Yet, your bike, your risk!

Brake improvement rates higher than micro-polished transmission gears on my priority list, but . . . that's probably just ME!

:)
 
#17 ·
You DO have steel-wrapped front brake hose, don't you
Yes. Both front and rear have Gafler SS lines. Gafler pads too.

And . . . I'd CERTAINLY expect you to have an oversize (320 mm diameter, stock is only 280 mm) front brake rotor (such parts appear available for Generation 2s), for obvious geometric/physical reasons.
Stock rotors though.

Otherwise . . . 80 mph on crowded southern California freeways . . . these suggestions may save you accident and injury. Yet, your bike, your risk!
This is quite true, however, I have to say currently the brakes are performing quite well. With my street tires on it and the 19” front wheel it performs as well as any of my previous BMWs so far as stopping power goes. Although I do miss ABS a bit when I think about riding in the rain.

Keep in mind that the 110/90, or is it a 110/80, tire has a larger contact patch than the 90/90 21” tire. Particularly with nobbies on it. I haven’t performed a full brake test with this configuration.

Nor have I tested it fully loaded. Just me - 190 pound rider - with my street setup.

Brake improvement rates higher than micro-polished transmission gears on my priority list, but . . . that's probably just ME!

No, I can’t say it’s just you. And a 320mm rotor in the front will be in the picture I suspect when I decide to add luggage to it next year. Just so much money to spend on it this year.

Plus, I’ll need to buy two sets of rotors as I have a spare set I swap for the dirt.

I’m not sure about a caliper swap though. I’ve assumed I have a stock caliper, but really don’t know. The PO painted the rotors red. I’ll have to look for a part number to figure it out. Assuming I can find them on the calipers. What I can say though is it stops quickly with the street configuration. I have no complaints or worries with just me on it.


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#19 ·
So, you'll use your 19" wheel, instead of your 21" wheel, off-road?



You've asked for advice on your build, ILove2; my advice would be for a 21" wheel off-road, but . . . you're the rider!

So, you'll use your 19" wheel, instead of your 21" wheel, off-road?



You've asked for advice on your build, ILove2; my advice would be for a 21" wheel off-road, but . . . you're the rider!

Sure. I do that now with the Anakee 3 tires on it. I ride it in dirt roads, gravel roads, and even an occasional hard surface fire road or trail. Not soft dirt or sand though.

The 21” wheel is only going to be used 20% of the time. Maybe 30% if I’m lucky. Most of my riding is on the street. I’ll swap wheels when it’s time for that vacation time or three day weekend trip. Even my first tires - the ones I bought not the ones that came on my eBay spares - are street capable. The are TCK80 and from what I hear have great grip. Lousy mileage, but grip well.

I don’t ride the same with the 21” wheel as I do with the 20” wheel. I’ll still probably put a larger rotor on both wheels for added braking capacity, but only feel I might need it for a loaded ride.

I really am pretty happy with the current street setup. You’ve got me wondering though if the PO already replaced he caliper or not and you have me wondering if the additional stopping capacity of a 320 mm rotor might make me even happier, but I don’t feel an immediate need to replace it.

If I had a Gen1 though, I’d do it in a heartbeat. I’m convinced the Gen1 braking needs all the help it can get. FWIW, I’m also understanding why wider front wheels for the front are desired too. A stock 21” wheel is pretty narrow and has a smaller contact patch than a wider 21” wheel and the larger the contact patch the better you can use what braking capacity you have ... to the limit of that capacity.


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#20 ·
I'll bet that it is impossible to find a DOT approved 20" tire. ;)

"I don’t ride the same with the 21” wheel as I do with the 20” wheel. I’ll still probably put a larger rotor on both wheels for added braking capacity, but only feel I might need it for a loaded ride."
 
#21 ·
I'll bet that it is impossible to find a DOT approved 20" tire. ;)



"I don’t ride the same with the 21” wheel as I do with the 20” wheel. I’ll still probably put a larger rotor on both wheels for added braking capacity, but only feel I might need it for a loaded ride."

My bad. It’s the 19” wheel. Guess I thumbed too fast on my phone and missed it on the review before posting.

Although, I have wondered about tire sizes and how they pick them. Or support them. I mean I thought the TUblis tire could be a cool alternative for my first wheels. Front 21” is supported, but not the rear 17”. I think my KLR is being discriminated by this company. :) They only support 3 sizes. 18”, 19”, & 21”.


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