Clutch disappeared and then returned! - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

 
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post #1 of 5 Old 11-14-2019, 07:26 PM Thread Starter
Neutral
 
Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: Lincoln,NE
Posts: 13
Clutch disappeared and then returned!

My particular bike is a 1999 version that is basically stock with 23,000 miles. I was out riding it the other day on mostly gravel going from town to town here in Nebraska. As I was getting ready to shift down I discovered that I had no clutch! As in I pulled in on the clutch lever and felt no resistance. I am mediately thought that the clutch cable snapped. I got into town and stopped to check things out. I couldnít find anything wrong and figured I would just have to do a rolling start in neutral and then powershift into gears to get home. However, once I started the bike back up, my clutch came back into operation. And Iíve had no problems since then. I have a new clutch cable to install thinking that maybe the clutch cable was stretched. But I doubt that is the problem. Any suggestions or should I quit worrying about it?
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post #2 of 5 Old 11-15-2019, 08:43 AM
2nd Gear
 
Join Date: Oct 2019
Posts: 253
Based on past experience with other motorcycle Iíd think it likely that the clutch push rod stuck momentarily and was released during your ride.

If so, check your oil level - you probably do anyway - just to be sure there is sufficient lubrication. Iíd also suggest checking the clutch pivot assembly. Where the clutch cable connects at the case. Itís a one piece assembly with a seal and needle bearing. See if there is any roughness or hesitation to turn.


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post #3 of 5 Old 11-15-2019, 10:51 AM
OverDrive
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Lander, Wyoming
Posts: 6,204
Take note of the HEIGHT of the actuator arm on the clutch cover. Now with the clutch cable disconnected at the engine, one can rotate the actuator arm CCW to disengage from the internal release pull-pin & lift the actuator arm out of the clutch cover, to examine.
It can only re-connect to the internal pull-pin at the original installed height, otherwise the hook can't engage.

One can use a Cresent Wrench to rotate the actuator arm CW to feel the clutch spring tension.

If a clutch cable does break it is best to start the engine in 1st gear as you push off with your feet. Rather than starting in neutral and jamming into gear. Up-shifting is fairly kind to the transmission. But one should slow way down in each gear before downshifting.

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 85,000+ miles & counting
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post #4 of 5 Old 11-18-2019, 08:46 PM Thread Starter
Neutral
 
Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: Lincoln,NE
Posts: 13
Thought Iíd give a follow up on what I discovered. Basically, it was operator error. One of the locking nuts down by the actuator arm had backed completely off. I adjusted the clutch cable according to the manual and everything seems to be operating as it should!
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post #5 of 5 Old 11-19-2019, 09:47 AM
OverDrive
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Lander, Wyoming
Posts: 6,204
Aw the simple things that give us pause. Glad you got it fixed. Maybe you will still have some more rideable weather.

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 85,000+ miles & counting
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