Did the Doo. Bike idles, dies with throttle - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

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post #1 of 20 Old 12-12-2019, 09:40 PM Thread Starter
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Did the Doo. Bike idles, dies with throttle

So I just did the doohickey and buttoned everything back up. The bike started up fine and sounded great, idled fine, but as soon as I put on any throttle, it would die.

I'm pretty confident that this is strictly a carb issue but just wanted to make sure this is not a symptom of me messing something up doing the doo.

The bike has been sitting for about a month (its winter here), the fuel tank has a minimal amount of fuel in it with seafoam mixed in, and the float bowl was drained. So even though it would be kind of perplexing if a jet got clogged up, I'm hoping that is what happened, and not me messing up something in the engine when doing the doo.

Again, could bungling the doo cause a "die on throttle" symptom?

Any help is appreciated!
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post #2 of 20 Old 12-12-2019, 10:01 PM
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vacuum fuel tap starting to go ?
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post #3 of 20 Old 12-12-2019, 10:25 PM
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Blocked needle or whatever the carb uses to accelerate from the sound of it (I still don't understand these carbys!).
Try flicking the throttle back and forth really quickly as you try to build up revs. This might let the bike rev up but it will be ragged until it gets some revs up. It will probably stall again when you let it get back to idle and try again though.

The "old get it revving then block the air inlet" trick might work to clear it as it has only just started doing this. I'm out of time so someone else can explain that one.

Hope that helps.
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post #4 of 20 Old 12-13-2019, 02:19 AM
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Having the bike layed up for a month can easily allow fuel (especially fuel with ethanol in it) to set deposits in the idle circuit. Aside from the ~.015" drilling in the pilot jet, there are some very small passages that are just at the edge of the throttle plate. Everything in the idle circuit needs to be clear and able to pass fluid.

The passageways and pilot jet should be able to pass carb cleaner that is sprayed through the idle jet.
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post #5 of 20 Old 12-13-2019, 03:41 AM
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I would check for a blockage in or kinked carb vent hose.
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post #6 of 20 Old 12-13-2019, 08:11 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Tom! So just to dispel my paranoia, are you confident that the dying on throttle has nothing to do with me screwing something up with the doo, and is definitely a carb issue?


Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Schmitz View Post
Having the bike layed up for a month can easily allow fuel (especially fuel with ethanol in it) to set deposits in the idle circuit. Aside from the ~.015" drilling in the pilot jet, there are some very small passages that are just at the edge of the throttle plate. Everything in the idle circuit needs to be clear and able to pass fluid.

The passageways and pilot jet should be able to pass carb cleaner that is sprayed through the idle jet.
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post #7 of 20 Old 12-13-2019, 10:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JTCrow View Post
Thanks Tom! So just to dispel my paranoia, are you confident that the dying on throttle has nothing to do with me screwing something up with the doo, and is definitely a carb issue?
If you put your bike up for a month and then rolled it out to do the doo and did nothing else, then 'yes'. Nothing associated with doing the doo can cause poor running. Breaking the pick-up coil's wires can cause non-running, but I have only seen that on really old models; mid '90s and earlier. Even then, it's usually just the insulation that breaks and flakes off.

When you hear hoofbeats, think 'horses are coming' rather than zebras. The most likely cause of poor idling and/or off-idle transition, especially with today's ethanol-laced fuels, is a clogged up idle circuit.

Ethanol belongs behind a label and under a cork, not in a gas tank. I recommend Blanton's.
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Last edited by Tom Schmitz; 12-13-2019 at 10:28 AM.
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post #8 of 20 Old 12-13-2019, 08:36 PM
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@JTCrow,

As a possible quick-fix, you might try rotating the carburetor (pull the choke fitting out of the plastic housing so you don't break the housing when you rotate the carb; it's in the 22cent video, IIRC), removing the bowl, removing the idle screw, and shooting carb cleaner for a good blast into the bottom fo the idle screw port. Make sure, of course, that you get the washer and packing out of the bottom of the port.

Put the screw back in and adjust it as it was when you took it out, then move over to the idle jet and shoot a good blast through the idle jet. Let it all sit for a few minutes, then blast it again.

Put it all back together and see if it got better.
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“'Why' and 'How' are words so important they cannot be too often used.” -Napoleon Bonaparte

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post #9 of 20 Old 12-14-2019, 05:17 PM
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Thought idle was o.k. (first post).

Not related to the doohickey upgrade, but . . . diaphragm air leak, as in punctured or improperly sealed diaphragm will produce the symptoms mentioned (idles, but dies when throttle opens). Putting the "choke" ON may reduce the tendency to die with throttle opening if the diaphragm is punctured/improperly sealed (for diagnosis only; by no means a fix).

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post #10 of 20 Old 12-14-2019, 05:24 PM
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If you get carb cleaner in your eye you did it properly!
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