Battery crowding! - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 9 Old 12-19-2019, 08:48 PM Thread Starter
1st Gear
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Concord, MA
Posts: 88
Battery crowding!

Electricity is for electricians and wizards as far as I"m concerned. Black magic. I try my best to leave it alone and hopefully it will leave me alone.

But I had a scare last summer the day before a big trip, my LED brake light started to flicker on and off. Dangerous! Somehow I managed to trace it to an SAE cable that travels from my battery to the handlebars so I can charge my GPS/phone. It has an inline fuse and one of the legs of the fuse had been crushed and was shorting.

The reason it was crushed is that I have WAY TOO MUCH CROWDING ON TOP OF MY BATTERY. I think I have so many inline fuses there that when I removed and replaced the seat it shifted position and as a result got mushed.

I have a new SAE cable with inline fuse. I have Denali D4 auxiliary lights with lots of cables, connectors a fuse and a relay. And Oxford heated grips and its inline fuse! I have most of the wiring for these run along the frame and then tucked up nicely near the horn. However, the inline fuses have to be right next to the battery because the distance from the fuse to the terminal connector is like 2 inches. And as you guys know, there just isn't any room right there on top of the battery.

My project right now is to clean up and protect this abomination of wiring that I have made. It would be great if I could lengthen the wire between the terminal connector and the inline fuse so I could tuck a couple of the fuses where there is some room behind the battery at the wheel-well. Is this a possibility? Any other suggestions?

Last edited by JTCrow; 12-19-2019 at 08:54 PM.
JTCrow is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 9 Old 12-20-2019, 10:03 AM
Neutral
 
Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: Lincoln,NE
Posts: 13
I’ve got the same problem! I look forward to seeing some solutions posted here.
Kurt V is offline  
post #3 of 9 Old 12-20-2019, 10:34 AM
1st Gear
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Cedar City, UT
Posts: 38
I have not added anything to the KLR, but on my street bikes, I would put in a small Aux. fuse panel. You run one power wire to the battery. Then you put all your accessories to the fuse panel. Keeps things a lot cleaner. Then you do not have all of the separate inline fuse holders taking up space. You still keep the relays on the high draw items so you do not overload the switches.
Snowmoer is offline  
 
post #4 of 9 Old 12-20-2019, 11:18 AM
1st Gear
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 15
I installed a Fuzeblocks FZ-1 Distribution Block. While you can run the power wire to your battery, I chose to run it to the starter relay. This keeps the battery terminal bolts free. Look at the Clymer wiring diagram. I did install one SAE plug to the battery so that I could hook up my inflator easily. The Fuzeblock allows you to choose either switched or non switched set ups for any auxiliary power requirements. I currently (pun intended) have heated grips, 2 powerlet plug-ins and aux lights attached to the Fuzeblock and only one wire running back to the starter relay. I chose a switched set up for all my accessories so that there isn't a power left on when I shut down the bike.
Merritt64 is offline  
post #5 of 9 Old 12-20-2019, 11:40 AM
Pretty in Pink, dunno why
 
Tom Schmitz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Redondo Beach
Posts: 7,871
Garage
What @Snowmoer and @Merritt64 said. You can go from mild to wild on this. That is, you can use a simple $10 fuse block on up to a power distribution block with resettable breakers and as 'key-on only' or 'always hot' for $100+.

This is what I initially did on my Gen 2: https://www.klrforum.com/2008-klr650...-fuse-box.html

I have since changed to a Bandit fuse box that I got from Cycle Terminal, ATC/ATO 5 Circuit Bussed Fuse Box

Whatever you do, use high-quality open-barrel crimp terminals of the kind that you'd get from Cycle Terminal. Invest in a decent crimp tool. If you like to solder connections (I don't, neither does any OEM. I used to but now believe it is unnecessary) use only a dab of solder at the end of the wire; don't let it wick up beyond the crimp.

On my BMW I used Eastern Beaver's PC-8 box and was perfectly happy with it.

Other options are the Centech AP1 or 2, Fuzeblock, Denali PowerHub 2, Rowe PDM60, and a host of simple fuse blocks from the likes of Fastronix and Blue Sea.

Tom [email protected]

“I decided I could lose nothing by the soft approach. If that didn't produce for me—and I didn't think it would—nature could take its course and we could bust up the furniture.” -Philip Marlowe

“'Why' and 'How' are words so important they cannot be too often used.” -Napoleon Bonaparte

Sting like a butterfly.
Noli Timere Messorem

Last edited by Tom Schmitz; 12-20-2019 at 11:50 AM.
Tom Schmitz is offline  
post #6 of 9 Old 12-20-2019, 11:41 AM Thread Starter
1st Gear
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Concord, MA
Posts: 88
Quote:
Originally Posted by Merritt64 View Post
I installed a Fuzeblocks FZ-1 Distribution Block. While you can run the power wire to your battery, I chose to run it to the starter relay. This keeps the battery terminal bolts free. Look at the Clymer wiring diagram. I did install one SAE plug to the battery so that I could hook up my inflator easily. The Fuzeblock allows you to choose either switched or non switched set ups for any auxiliary power requirements. I currently (pun intended) have heated grips, 2 powerlet plug-ins and aux lights attached to the Fuzeblock and only one wire running back to the starter relay. I chose a switched set up for all my accessories so that there isn't a power left on when I shut down the bike.
Interesting. I was looking at some of those fuse blocks and they look pretty complicated for a layman.

Where do you have the FZ1 on the bike?

And like I said, I know next to nothing about wiring and electricity. Does switched vs non switched mean key on vs key off or actual manual switches for each accessory?
JTCrow is offline  
post #7 of 9 Old 12-20-2019, 11:53 AM
1st Gear
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by JTCrow View Post
Interesting. I was looking at some of those fuse blocks and they look pretty complicated for a layman.

Where do you have the FZ1 on the bike?

And like I said, I know next to nothing about wiring and electricity. Does switched vs non switched mean key on vs key off or actual manual switches for each accessory?
Actually, I would say that these are designed for laymen. They are very easy to work with. In a nutshell, one power wire in, one ground wire in and then attach your accessories to whatever circuit you choose. It is very easy and the directions are very straightforward.

I installed mine in the left hand fairing of my gen 2. Made a simple blanking plate out of aluminum and attached it to the frame underneath the fairing.

Yes, switched means key on. There aren't any switches on the Fuzeblock. The position that you install your fuse determines whether it's switched or not. Once again, very easy and straightforward when you see it.
Merritt64 is offline  
post #8 of 9 Old 12-20-2019, 03:55 PM
R/L
1st Gear
 
Join Date: Dec 2019
Location: SW Michigan
Posts: 35
The Fuzeblocks FZ1 is the most easy to install IMHO. Especially if you spring for their wiring harness.

I mounted mine above the head light on my Gen2 on an aluminum bracket I fabricated. (I'm a stickler for factory installed looks!)
R/L is online now  
post #9 of 9 Old 12-20-2019, 05:07 PM Thread Starter
1st Gear
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Concord, MA
Posts: 88
The FZ1 looks like a good remedy, but I don't know where I'd mount it on a gen 1.
JTCrow is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome