2005 KLR Highway problems - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

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post #1 of 11 Old 03-03-2020, 09:07 AM Thread Starter
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2005 KLR Highway problems

Greetings everyone, I am trying to diagnose some issues my KLR has.

1) Idle is fine but holding higher RPM causes random drops in RPM, also what should I set my bike to idle at? Currently its at 1800 RPM because to my ear that's where it sounded happiest.
2) My Speedo is about 10MPH over my real speed, which is annoying but not critical now that I know that.
3) Bike can be terrible to get started, this is probably because I need to do a valve adjustment though and I plan to do that once I get back from this work trip.

Notes:
I have a petcock from eagle mike, I also have the choke cable delete. I have cleaned my Jets and they look find, I have also rigorously cleaned the fuel bowl and I do not believe the system is getting clogged. I have adjusted my float to 17.5mm. I think that's about it. OH, I have a cheap eBay coil and CDI box, I am wondering if they could be the culprit, although I have no real reason to suspect them.
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post #2 of 11 Old 03-03-2020, 09:31 AM
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word of advice on carbs. you may think that you have cleaned them but to get back to factory new i highly recommend a good carb shop. i have guy in new york that specializes in this. its all he does, he can make it factory new. let me know and i will contact him

https://customcarbservices.com/
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Last edited by maverick9611; 03-03-2020 at 09:37 AM.
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post #3 of 11 Old 03-03-2020, 09:41 AM Thread Starter
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What would he charge? And can he re-electro plate my components that have lost their coating?
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post #4 of 11 Old 03-03-2020, 09:44 AM
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1400 rpm +/- 100 IIRC.

Random changes in RPM are often due to vacuum leaks.....I'd suggest the enricher nut but it sounds like you've changed that. ...check throttle cable play and operation as well.

Lots of other possibilities but carb cleaning can be a bear to do right and if you think you need to check the valve clearance then I'd recommend doing that sooner than later....

Dave
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post #5 of 11 Old 03-03-2020, 09:47 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by DPelletier View Post
1400 rpm +/- 100 IIRC.

Random changes in RPM are often due to vacuum leaks.....I'd suggest the enricher nut but it sounds like you've changed that. ...check throttle cable play and operation as well.

Lots of other possibilities but carb cleaning can be a bear to do right and if you think you need to check the valve clearance then I'd recommend doing that sooner than later....

Dave
I have checked the clearances and they are close so I know it needs to be done, Iv put less than 20 miles on the bike since then and don't intend to put any more on it. I suppose it could still be carb issues. God I hate carbs. I wish Eagle Mike had been more successful with his Fuel injection conversion but I understand that its not something for a novice and that tech support for that is probably very difficult.
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post #6 of 11 Old 03-03-2020, 10:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darkipod View Post
What would he charge? And can he re-electro plate my components that have lost their coating?
I reached out to him he lurks on ningette.com all the time.
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=239678

Last edited by maverick9611; 03-03-2020 at 10:21 AM.
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post #7 of 11 Old 03-03-2020, 10:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darkipod View Post
Greetings everyone, I am trying to diagnose some issues my KLR has.

1) Idle is fine but holding higher RPM causes random drops in RPM, also what should I set my bike to idle at? Currently its at 1800 RPM because to my ear that's where it sounded happiest.
2) My Speedo is about 10MPH over my real speed, which is annoying but not critical now that I know that.
3) Bike can be terrible to get started, this is probably because I need to do a valve adjustment though and I plan to do that once I get back from this work trip.

Notes:
I have a petcock from eagle mike, I also have the choke cable delete. I have cleaned my Jets and they look find, I have also rigorously cleaned the fuel bowl and I do not believe the system is getting clogged. I have adjusted my float to 17.5mm. I think that's about it. OH, I have a cheap eBay coil and CDI box, I am wondering if they could be the culprit, although I have no real reason to suspect them.
Below minimum spec valve tappet clearance can cause Below minimum spec Cold Cranking Compression. Which causes reluctant starting and affects proper carburetion, especially at lower rpms. Normally we should use Full cold start Enrichener and ZERO throttle for cold start up (too many people play with the throttle, which reduces or Defeats the enrichener).
But with minimal or tight valve clearance we can get a little more compression if we intermittently open the throttle while cranking, which may 'light the fire'.

I will ask, 'how did you measure float height of 17.5mm'? With the carb held sideways & gently tilted until the needle just touches the brass seat?
Or with the carburetor completely upside down? With the carb turned completely upside down, the cushion spring in the float needle gets fully compressed by the weight of the float. When the carb is right side up the Fuel Level will be Too Low.

How many turns open is the low speed idle mixture screw? Did you confirm that the 3 tiny little Low Speed Transition holes under the bottom lip of the throttle butterfly plate also flowed aerosol cleaner freely (This is best checked with the mixture screw turned in to zero.)?

With valve clearance near upper specs & CCC between 80-125psi, a clean carb with fuel height near gasket level (+or - .5mm) in float bowl, with mixture screw between 1&3/4 to 2&1/4 turns open, a KLR should idle quite nicely at 1300rpm + or- 100rpm when fully warmed.
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post #8 of 11 Old 03-03-2020, 10:51 AM Thread Starter
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I checked the float with the carb flat on its head. I guess I could check this again.
The fuel mixture screw has been turned all the way in and then backed out two full turns.
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post #9 of 11 Old 03-03-2020, 12:02 PM
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You may have seen this photo before. This is a simple and relatively tried-and-true method for evaluating the float level.

Put some tubing on the bowl drain, start the bike, open the bowl drain screw, observe the level, shut the bike off, observe the level. Evaluate.

Tom [email protected]

I still held his automatic more or less pointed at him, but he swung on me just the same. It caught me flush on the chin. It was meant to be a hard one, but a pansy has no iron in his bones, whatever he looks like. -Philip Marlowe

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post #10 of 11 Old 03-03-2020, 11:55 PM
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You mentioned cleaning the carb jets but as Maverick as suggested, this may not be enough. Over the years I've been frustrated trying to clean and balance multi-carb bikes like my old Kawasaki KZ900.

A few years ago I dismantled and cleaned the carbs on my daughter's Triumph Speedmaster after it sat for a couple of years but it still would not run right. I then took the carbs to a shop and had them sonic cleaned at the recommendation of a friend who owned a marine repair business since. That did the trick. It doesn't take much to clog these carbs enough to cause problems.

If none of the above recommendations work, I suggest sonic cleaning the carb. Most shops have a sonic cleaner but you can also buy one at Harbor Freight for about the same price as a shop would charge.

Mike
Show a man a road, and he'll want to travel down it-James Michener
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