Will the KLR's battery supply enough power for full-body heat? - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

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post #1 of 23 Old 11-11-2009, 04:45 AM Thread Starter
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Will the KLR's battery supply enough power for full-body heat?

I'd like to buy heated clothing for my whole body--jacket, pants, socks, possibly gloves. (I may go with heated grips; I'm not sure yet.) Can the battery handle it?
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post #2 of 23 Old 11-11-2009, 06:43 AM
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Cabron -

The electrical system on the KLR is weakish, producing about 15 amps or ~180 watts on the pre '08s and 17 amps or ~200 watts on the '08+ models.

So, you need to figure out how much excess power is available to run the suit.
I would guess (but I'm sure someone here knows an accurate figure) that the bike uses ~100 watts to run the headlight, taillight, ignition,charge the battery when it needs it, and so on. these are on all, or much, the time - you don't need to worry about the intermittent stuff like the turn signals, , as the battery will handle the temporary overload.

That leaves 80 - 100 watts to run accessories. How much wattage does a full suit consume?

I think a jacket and pants would draw about 10 amps, or ~120 watts, and that would indicate that the KLR doesn't have quite enough reserve power.

I find that if my upper body is warm that I'm fine down to about 30 degrees with my winter suit, so perhaps a jacket would suffice.

disclaimer: I live in SoCal and wile I often ride in near-freezing temps out in the desert, I don't have heated stuff. Here's your grains of salt >...

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post #3 of 23 Old 11-11-2009, 08:15 PM
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Per the manuals the 2000-07 models make about 238 watts and take 126 watts to run all the lights leaving you with 110 watts to play with. I have a set of driving lights that consume 110 watts and my 05 just can't quite keep up with that much draw. I would say I have about 90-95 watts extra to run accessories. While a jacket may be rated at 90 watts at full power you will likely never pull more than half that much power if you use a digital heat control which cycles the element on and off to obtain the desired level of heat. You should have enough power to run a jacket and heated gloves or grips with a digital controller. Be sure to install a voltmeter to keep track of your power use.
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post #4 of 23 Old 11-18-2009, 10:02 PM
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Agreed with the other posters - I've done some testing on volts vs. current draw on my '04 (plot attached) and found it can support about 100 watts of current draw. I ride into the 20's and actually sold my heated vest (77w) because I barely had it running (down on '2' or only 20% duty cycle... ie a net equivalent of 15watts averaged out over time). I run a balaclava, good jacket and pants, and the only electrical heat is 22w for some heated gloves. The question you might want to ask is, do you truly have a need for more than 100 watts at 100% duty cycle? In my case, the answer was 'no'.

Here's the plot.
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post #5 of 23 Old 11-22-2009, 08:47 PM
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I have a 2008 and I run a heated jacket and gloves, which consume about 120 watts. I was worried about the consumption so I added a volt meter. I have a solid state controlled for the heated clothing that cycles on and off. The voltage meter will drop from 14 to 12 volts when the clothing cycles on and then goes back up to 14 when it cycles off. The volts will stay at 12 if I am riding slow with the bright lights on and the clothing on high. I seldom run the clothing on high. I just turn off the bright light if I am going slow and have the clothing on fairly high. I've never had a problem. I would suggest adding a voltage meter rather than get a surpise with a dead battery.
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post #6 of 23 Old 11-24-2009, 04:21 PM
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I just purchased a heated jacket for use on my 04 klr. I checked the current draw to find out the load. The jacket pulls a maximum of 6 amps but only 50% of the time as the controller applies on-off current. Based on this 3 amps times 13 volts equals 39 watts of power.

Have had no problems using the jacket on long rides.
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post #7 of 23 Old 11-25-2009, 09:57 AM
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I have been leaning towards just the heated gloves and insoles to keep the extremities warm.



The only problem with this is getting power to the insoles since I won`t be wearing a pant liner. Apparently gloves come with: "Synergy™ Gloves include the Power Lead Wiring Harness, Temperature Control Unit and a V-Split Connector (Required when using Synergy™ Gloves with Synergy™ Pant or Vest liners).

Anyone deal with this problem before?
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post #8 of 23 Old 01-07-2010, 08:35 PM
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I have heated gloves but prefer the heated grips. Very low power draw. Like others have said, use a digital controller. Also keep in mind you can turn the heat down to minimize draw. The KLR will need some RPMs to keep charging so just be aware if you are in traffic or such. You can also swap your running lights to LEDs to make power available, as well as a digital dash. I have heard lots of folks having reliabilty issues with the higher output stators.
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post #9 of 23 Old 01-08-2010, 12:53 PM
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My suggestion, a leather coat big enough to wear a long sleeve T and a Berber pullover from Cabella's, sweat-pants, jeans, and leather outer-leather-pants, heat the grips and mabe the socks, a blaclava and full face, will get you down to riding temps that snowmobikes do......on second thought a snowmobile suit ought to do nicely (:
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post #10 of 23 Old 02-16-2010, 03:11 PM
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Running Gerbing jacket and G3 gloves killed my battery. Now I only use the jacket. I have an 09

2003 Bandit 1200S
2009 KLR 650

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