So....... I wrecked:) Bent rim - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

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post #1 of 3 Old 05-06-2020, 04:51 PM Thread Starter
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Join Date: May 2020
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So....... I wrecked:) Bent rim

I have a 2005 klr and sent it a little too hard and hit a rock and bent my front rim.... I've looked around and other than the OEM one is there a certain brand i should go for? I'm sure its mainly preference but if there are stronger rims out there i would like to get those. Also is there anything i should check other than blown shocks? the bike may or may not have flipped and landed about 5 feet away lol. Ive installed eagle mfg subframe kit, Eagle mfg forkbrace, sw motech skid plate and crash bars, bark busters, center stand and a few other various things. any feedback or links to other threads would be helpful!
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post #2 of 3 Old 05-06-2020, 05:24 PM
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hmmm; pics? you may be able to fix your rim. (yes, to post pics you need a minimum post count so go to the test post page and post some test posts to get enough to post a pic). If not, I've used Excel rims before and they've held up well (stock rims on my KTM's) and they're stronger than the stock ones....more expensive too. You didn't blow your shock or forks crashing.....just check that everything is straight and keep an eye open for any damage. Cleaning helps.......yes, I said cleaning on a KLR page! LOL


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post #3 of 3 Old 05-06-2020, 10:23 PM
foo
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If you're used to rocketing through the rock gardens on the lightweight 2-stroker-dirtbikes, you should know that the KLR can do this too -though she's kinda portly, and takes more finesse with the bars and throttle. Downside is the impacts on the front rim. Helps a bunch if you use a tire with solid shoulders -like the Dunlop D606. But eventually repeated blows will lead to a cracked rim. You can buy a replacement online, and in the past I've had good luck buying from Buchanan's. If you can reuse your spokes, a front rim will set you back about $250, and $60 more if you need it anodized black or gold for that fashion statement which so many of the KLR riders are known for.

You still have to get the rim and hub things re-laced. Seems like rocket surgery at first, but then your brain recognizes the simple pattern and its easy-peazy. Much easier if you have a good wheel to compare to, some careful measurements, and a solid bench vice to hold the axle while you dial things in to perfect roundness and no left/right wobble. OEM spokes take a 6mm wrench. You can buy a classy tool just for this, or probably have one unused open-end 6mm in the back of the wrench drawer. And, yes, you can pay a local shop to do this, but that's antithetical to the cheap-bhastage motto some of us have sworn to uphold

Often the best option is to shop for a used wheel on epay, craigs, or even the classifieds here. You can often find a bargain for less than $200 shipped. If you go this route, be sure to check for any cracks, digs, obvious bends or deep gouges or other damage before the purchase. When you get it home, mount the new wheel onto the forks and check for runout and wobble, and also check all the spokes for any loose ones. NB: Do this check before you mount the tire/tube (don't ask how I learnt this lesson).
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