fuel leak - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

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post #1 of 13 Old 02-18-2010, 03:29 PM Thread Starter
 
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Angry fuel leak

i have an 89 650. fuel continuously flows out of the overflow on the carb. i took the carb apart and everything seem visualy fine. also, when i removed the pipes from the fuel tap, fuel ran out and drained the tank. i thought that this shouldn't happen. please help me i am so frustrated!!!!!!!
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post #2 of 13 Old 02-18-2010, 04:06 PM
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In the petcock(fuel valve at the tank) there is a vacuum actuated diaphram. It has gone bad, if your getting flow from the tank without the engine running. Replace the diaphram and that problem will be fixed. Or, you could go old school and shut the valve on and off before and after riding the bike.
Now, with the carb... the fuel needle is either stuck or worn out. It's located inside the the fuel bowl hanging down from the carb body. The fuel floats push it up when the bowl is full. It's very hard to visually check if it's working properly. And it's easy to get it all bended up where it will never work again. In the repair manual i believe there is a section on the carb and how to set the fuel needle. ( I'm just guessing.. I've never owned the manual) .
Hopefully some else here will chime in and give you some more help.

- Joe

HighSpeed Hiker- DV o5'
Quote:
Originally Posted by larryboy
come awn... it's not far...it'll be fun..

sorry I can't....... I'm fishing today
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post #3 of 13 Old 02-18-2010, 06:43 PM
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OBJ is right.

Both problems exist. I choose to have a full flow (constantly on) petcock, and
manually turn on and off the gas.

Your float needle valve is either sticking open or there's a bit of crud, even as small
as a grain of sand preventing the needle from seating. It's a very delicate assembly.
The carb can be blown out with compressed air to unseat whatever is stopping the
closure if the float and assembly are ok. Try that first. It's free.
If your bike has been otherwise fine all along, probably a bit of grit got past the
fuel screen and embedded in the cone part of the float valve.

A replacement diaphragm for the petcock is a cheap fix too but requires fully draining
the tank before taking the thing off.

You'll have to do some work, but it shouldn't cost much $$.
Even a new float and needle valve assembly should be around 20 bucks.

As always,get the service manual. They usually pay for themselves
on the first use in saved labor charges. Plus, you'll get to know
your machine.

Good luck,
CheapMark
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post #4 of 13 Old 02-19-2010, 03:08 PM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks for the advice, i'll let you know how it goes.
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post #5 of 13 Old 02-25-2010, 12:35 PM Thread Starter
 
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GREAT NEWS!!!!!!!!!!!!!
i've fixed it and she is up and running!!!!
Thanks for all your advice. it was spot on!!
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post #6 of 13 Old 02-25-2010, 12:45 PM
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How did you fix it? Your info may help someone else.
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post #7 of 13 Old 02-25-2010, 12:56 PM Thread Starter
 
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i replaced the diaphram and the gaskets in the petcock and stripped the carb, cleaned it etc.. job done. i was left scratching my head for a while with the pitcock though. i also fitted an inline gas filter as it was letting through crud from the bottom of the tank.
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post #8 of 13 Old 02-25-2010, 01:07 PM
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You may run into a loss of fuel issue at higher running rpms on the road.
There have been problems in the past with a filter restricting just enough fuel flow to cause the Carb to run out quicker then the tank can supply.

Heads up for that..

- Joe

HighSpeed Hiker- DV o5'
Quote:
Originally Posted by larryboy
come awn... it's not far...it'll be fun..

sorry I can't....... I'm fishing today
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post #9 of 13 Old 02-25-2010, 03:33 PM
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What TOBJ said about the filter. The smaller diameter of the inlet/outlet of the filter will act as a "choke" (not like the choke on an engine, but like the choke on a pipeline). Liquid can only flow as fast as the smallest diameter of line will let it.

But there's several guys, DX and I think Paper, who run filters with no problem.
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post #10 of 13 Old 02-25-2010, 06:07 PM
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Once you had the carb apart, I would have changed the float needle. The rubber tips (or maybe your's is brass) can look fine but it doesn't take a lot of wear for fuel to flow past them. The best solution if you have a brass needle is to replace the seat AND the needle. If your needle is a rubber tipped item, the seats are usually fine and just a float needle replacement is good to go. Even though your fuel may not appear to be leaking right now, you might find that it floods the engine when driving down the road. If it starts missing or stahls, your plug could be fouled or then there is the filter starving it. If you have this problem, pull the plug and you'll know flooded or starved is pretty obvious.

Cheers,

John

Farkled probably WAY too much, but good 20' footer for sure. '96 KLR, '06 HD VROD, (girl friend hauler), '05 HD Electra-Glide, heh it's a HD and I'm old now ;-) and I'm proud of riding a 800+ pound bike at my age :-)
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