Something else to consider is the use of the #4 washer to split the difference of the slots on the KLX needle.
May I suggest you spend a lot of time reading about the aftermarket exhaust you have and the L Mod. You have many variables to deal with and that makes it difficult to find a base line when making changes / improvements.
Do you have an aftermarket air cleaner? What is the idle pilot screw set at? Do you still have the stock 650 piston and cylinder? Has the snorkle been removed?
When was the last time the engine ran well? What was the configuration when it ran well?
Why did you do the L Mod and install the aftermarket exhaust? Both of these are extreme modifications.
These are questions you need answer and document. This will help you properly tune your KLR engine.
I spent alot of time researching the mods over the past 2 years, the mods were not done due to a poorly running engine, just an engine that comes to California plugged up due to CA emission standards. I have spent the last 25+ years wrenching on my Sportsters, and as you may know the Sportys used the 40mm CV carb.
I have familiarized myself with tuning carbs by not being able to afford a mechanic when I was a teenager, so I learned alot by trial and error.
I asked about the KLX needle because I, like others, hope to pull the carb as few times as possible and get close to, or where I need to be with the needle position the first time.
I am a new comer to japanese bikes, as I rode Harleys most of my adult life, and Japanese bikes as a kid. I understand the principle of carb tuning, but was just hoping to get a little heads up on the needle position.
I appreciate all the help and will update as soon as I get the needle replaced. Since the weather was good taday, I decided to ride instead of pulling the carb. These last few weeks sunshine has been very sparse, so have to take advantage of it when it is out.