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suspension ?

7K views 19 replies 6 participants last post by  rwb83 
#1 ·
How do i adjust my suspension? i will probably want to do front and back, my bike don't handle very well. It feels like the front is all over the place. and my rear susp. is on 1 and i still cant make it budge, i am 145 lbs but i figured it would ride alittle soft when it was set on 1. any suggestions will help thanks
Jesse
 
#2 ·
What year is the bike? (This is the Pre-08' forum)
On Pre-08's, you just turn the fastener on the bottom of the rear shock and it'll rotate your preload adjuster. Usually takes a 12mm socket to do so.
It'll rotate to a heavier setting, and once you're at the highest setting, you rotate it one more time and it'll return back to the lowest setting where you just start over.

On Gen II bikes, someone else will have to chime in..

The front is only adjustable if you change your spring, preload spacer, or oil type or level..
 
#16 ·
just found this post. My KLR is an 02 and it is set at (1) I way 210 pound and am 5'10" When I ride with a passenger in the 130 pound range It sits very low...like i noticed some rub on my "applied for license" temporary plate. any ideas where I should set this at for the most comfort/least sag if i have a passenger?

Thanks!
 
#4 ·
If your bike is like mine (2007), there are air valves on top. These are to let air that has built up out, not to put air in. Make sure to release any pressure in there. Other than that, Paper is right that the only changes you can make is to the springs, oil viscosity, or the preload spacer. If you want the front to be softer, you could remove the top caps and the spacer is right there on top. It is 5 1/2" . You can cut a piece of 3/4" PVC to be 5" long and put that in place. This will loosen the tension on the spring. If you want it stiffer, cut the pipe 6 or 6 1/2 inches. Of course do this to both forks.
 
#5 ·
Thanks John, i noted the air valves on top of the shocks didn't know what they were for so didn't mess with them. I will check to see if there is any pressure in them later. I'm going to do alittle playing around with them to see if i can get the bike to handle alittle better with me on it. Thanks guys. Jesse
 
#6 ·
Those are the cheap things to adjust.. From there, it gets expensive.. :)

On the front, if you want lighter I'd kick around shortening your spacers as John mentioned.. Just take off a bit at a time until you like it.. Lighter weight oil might help this situation, too..

Oh, and remember to only do one side at a time unless you have a stand to get the front end of the bike off the ground
 
#8 ·
I haven't been able to find any vids either. Although, I have found several posts that say to ignore the Shop Manuals that say to disassemble the rear end. If you have an ATV lift raise the bike up, support the rear tire with a 2x4 and unbolt the dog-bones aka links, and undo bolt at top of the shock, drop it out and swap the spring. As far as I understand you have to compress the spring and then can spin the "keeper" to slide the spring off. Then reverse of this to install. Google klr, rear spring install, and look for the threads.

I am going to order a Topgun spring before too long and do this as well. But, first gotta do the front spacers etc.

If you find a video please post it.
 
#9 ·
That is what I got, a top gun. I guess what you are saying is I will have to remove the whole shock? I thought I could get away with just taking the bottom off and swapping springs. I will keep looking to find out. Meanwhile, I will plan on removing the whole shock.
 
#12 ·
OK, I installed it. You do not have to remove the rear tire. Just remove the main bolt to the bottom on the shock, the link bolt, and the top shock bolt (can access from left side, no nut). The shock will drop straight out the bottom. I bought a shock compressor from harbor freight ($10.00). It was a chore to compress it enough to get the slotted washer off the bottom once it's compressed but I got it to go. Did the same with the new spring and put back together. Much stiffer with less pre-sag.
 
#15 ·
OK, I installed it. You do not have to remove the rear tire. Just remove the main bolt to the bottom on the shock, the link bolt, and the top shock bolt (can access from left side, no nut). The shock will drop straight out the bottom. I bought a shock compressor from harbor freight ($10.00). It was a chore to compress it enough to get the slotted washer off the bottom once it's compressed but I got it to go. Did the same with the new
spring and put back together. Much stiffer with less pre-sag.
Whats the Harbor Freight number? I can't find the tool at the website.
 
#14 ·
Cool thanks, I thought the compressor would be more than 10 bux, I didn't wanna spend money on something I may never use again. One guys was telling me he uses a ton of zip ties, slides it on the cuts them loose. But, he is dong old Beemers, so maybe the springs are softer. I got a Harbor Freight a few blocks away so wouldn't hurt to try both.

First thing I gotta do is the spacers and oil on the front. Have an 06 and haven't touched the forks since I bought it.:ashamed0005: But I have done almost everything else myself, even the doo.
 
#17 ·
I'd set it at 3-4 when riding alone, and 4-5 with a passenger..

Also, move your license plate so you're using the lower holes, rather than the uppper holes on the plate. That'll raise it 3" and help eliminate the rear tire eating the plate. Even with my plate up, and custom rear shock for my weight, I still occasionally rub the bottom of my plate when riding hard.
 
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