KLX Needle - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

 
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Old 03-26-2010, 07:52 PM Thread Starter
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KLX Needle

This is for modifying the main jet needle. The KLX needle is NOT the stock main jet needle for the KLR650.

Finally I measured the spacing of the slots at the top of the KLX needle (main jet). The reason for knowing the spacing between the slots is to know how much you are changing the position of the needle to the main jet.

The slot spacing is .040"

Why is this important? Many of the main jet needle height adjustments are made by adding a #4 washer. Not all #4 washer are the same thickness. I have seen these washers measure (thickness) from .019" to .033". I currently have three washers that measure .019", .019", and .022".

When making the height adjustment you do not need to add more than a total (combined washer height) of .040". Using a .020" washer will result in a half-step adjustment.

Tim

2005 KLR 685
2015 Yamaha Super Tenere ES, 5/23/2015
2012 Yamaha Super Tenere; Purchased 7/30/2011; Sold 5/23/2015
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Old 03-27-2010, 05:55 AM
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Mater,
The #4 brass are usually more consistent at .026" (after lightly deburring) and
that's what I have mic'ed many of them at. Also, these were from the same
company bought in semi-bulk. (Used to get 'em at the foundry, and the maintenance
dudes dropped them often enough that I always hadda few laying around my toolbox.
I don't have a mic,but we did at work, and I check more than a few over the years.
Washers WILL vary from different suppliers. Unless it's a precision washer, the rolls
they are made from will vary in thickness as the tolerance variance is at least a few
thousanths over or under standard and still be in spec.
The SS take a harder punch to knock out the center and will deform a little
more during manufacture. Those should be tapped flat with a mallet or hammer
besides light sanding or rubbing them on a file on the punchout side (bottom).
If you have a micrometer use it. A caliper can be used too. Get the tips to touch,
then check it on a spark plug gauge.

Thank you for the heads up for those of us going with the X-needle. Good info.
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Old 03-27-2010, 08:52 AM
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I want the KLX needle and to do the 22.cent mod, but i am worried about doing these engine mods with out an exhaust sniffer. does anyone know where i can get one cheap? Thanks guys
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Old 03-27-2010, 12:56 PM Thread Starter
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Location: Sacramento, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CheapBassTurd View Post
Mater,
The #4 brass are usually more consistent at .026" (after lightly deburring) and
that's what I have mic'ed many of them at. Also, these were from the same
company bought in semi-bulk. (Used to get 'em at the foundry, and the maintenance
dudes dropped them often enough that I always hadda few laying around my toolbox.
I don't have a mic,but we did at work, and I check more than a few over the years.
Washers WILL vary from different suppliers. Unless it's a precision washer, the rolls
they are made from will vary in thickness as the tolerance variance is at least a few
thousanths over or under standard and still be in spec.
The SS take a harder punch to knock out the center and will deform a little
more during manufacture. Those should be tapped flat with a mallet or hammer
besides light sanding or rubbing them on a file on the punchout side (bottom).
If you have a micrometer use it. A caliper can be used too. Get the tips to touch,
then check it on a spark plug gauge.

Thank you for the heads up for those of us going with the X-needle. Good info.
Cheap, the reason I do posts like this to to make others aware that there are differences. It depends who manufacturers the #4 washer. Radio Shack has well made SS #4 washers that are consistant in size. Someone brought a bag of washers to a tech day and the thickness' were all over the place. The two I have that were .019" came from some that EagleMike had. And the story...

KLRCary stood behind the 22 cent mod though said not to exceed .060". I have seen .032" and heard of thicker. If these are combined you can exceed .060". This causes a very rich condition on the lower end.

It is good to know the thickness of the washer to understand what you are doing and how the engine should react.

Tim

2005 KLR 685
2015 Yamaha Super Tenere ES, 5/23/2015
2012 Yamaha Super Tenere; Purchased 7/30/2011; Sold 5/23/2015
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Old 03-27-2010, 01:13 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DuckPicker03 View Post
I want the KLX needle and to do the 22.cent mod, but i am worried about doing these engine mods with out an exhaust sniffer. does anyone know where i can get one cheap? Thanks guys
Duck,

The 22 cent mod includes the STOCK needle and one or two stainless #4 washers.

http://www.schnitzracingstore.com/ca...showprevnext=1 The KLX needle replaces the STOCK needle. It has five slots at the at .040" apart. The C-clip is inserted in the a slot to set the needle height for the main jet. A SS #4 washer can be inserted under the C-clip to raise/lower the needle a half step.
Since the needle is very rich you need to replace the main jet.

I suggest you use the 22 cents mod. It is good starting point and does not cost much.

I also suggest you replace the carburetor bolts. The OEM bolts are soft and the heads can strip easily.

EagleMike, 619-261-1281, can sell you the #4 washers and Carb Bolt kit. He can also sell you the KLX needle kit and other parts needed. Excellent person to deal with and has quick shipping.

A/F measurement: you can purchase a Bung and Plug and have it fit and welded in you stocker header. This is not worth your time if you don't have a method to measure the mixture.

Tim

2005 KLR 685
2015 Yamaha Super Tenere ES, 5/23/2015
2012 Yamaha Super Tenere; Purchased 7/30/2011; Sold 5/23/2015
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Old 08-29-2014, 08:10 AM
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Location: Indianapolis, Indiana.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomatocity View Post
Duck,

The 22 cent mod includes the STOCK needle and one or two stainless #4 washers.

http://www.schnitzracingstore.com/ca...showprevnext=1 The KLX needle replaces the STOCK needle. It has five slots at the at .040" apart. The C-clip is inserted in the a slot to set the needle height for the main jet. A SS #4 washer can be inserted under the C-clip to raise/lower the needle a half step.
Since the needle is very rich you need to replace the main jet.

I suggest you use the 22 cents mod. It is good starting point and does not cost much.

I also suggest you replace the carburetor bolts. The OEM bolts are soft and the heads can strip easily.

EagleMike, 619-261-1281, can sell you the #4 washers and Carb Bolt kit. He can also sell you the KLX needle kit and other parts needed. Excellent person to deal with and has quick shipping.

A/F measurement: you can purchase a Bung and Plug and have it fit and welded in you stocker header. This is not worth your time if you don't have a method to measure the mixture.


Just a heads up. My security program flagged the link for Schnitz racing store.

2009 KLR650
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Old 08-29-2014, 09:48 AM
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It's a four-year-old link! Things change over time and a link can become a stub or quit working completely. Hosts change to take advantage of better website architectures. If you click through you'll see the old page for the KLX needle. It's on an "E-Commerce" host and I suspect that Schnitz has moved on to a new host and that is an abandoned page. Thus the warning.

The Schnitz site has been undergoing a rebuild and is safe.

http://store.schnitzracing.com/schni...-klr650-87-13/

Tom

Tom [email protected]

“Neither of the two people in the room paid any attention to the way I came in, although only one of them was dead.” -Philip Marlowe

“'Why' and 'How' are words so important they cannot be too often used.” -Napoleon Bonaparte


Sting like a butterfly.

Last edited by Tom Schmitz; 08-29-2014 at 09:52 AM.
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