1998 KLRJust Won't Start - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

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post #1 of 11 Old 03-29-2010, 04:57 PM Thread Starter
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1998 KLRJust Won't Start

Rebuilt Carb, Got Gas, Got Spark, Got Air. Just will not pop. Took carb apart just to check it. It's clean and everything where it should be. New diaphram too. Where to go from here? Only 7500 miles. Can Stator be bad? How do I check the coil...maybe the spark isn't enough!

Danno
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post #2 of 11 Old 03-29-2010, 08:25 PM
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See if you can replace current plug with a known-good plug. You may have juice to the plug, but.......

They're funny that way.......
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post #3 of 11 Old 03-29-2010, 09:24 PM
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Was your bike running fine (meaning you needed minimal choke or none at all during starting) before you rebuilt the carb? I basically want to know if you are almost certain it is the carb. Is your vacuum line hooked to your fuel cock? Is the idle adjusted, or are you compensating by opening the throttle manually? Is your choke hooked up? Is it getting spark in the electrode, or just to the top of the plug as BIGIRON mentioned? Can you smell gas in the exhaust? What about with a shot of ether? If the bike had a hard time starting before you rebuilt the carb, it might be the valves are tight. Let me know. Will
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post #4 of 11 Old 03-31-2010, 02:07 PM Thread Starter
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New plug same thing.

Danno
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post #5 of 11 Old 03-31-2010, 03:47 PM
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I got no idea, but I always dump a can of SeaFoam in before I start getting my hands dirty.




"In a car you're always in a compartment, and because you're used to it you don't realize that through that car window everything you see is just more TV." R. Pirsig

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post #6 of 11 Old 03-31-2010, 10:48 PM
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What Willmo said. A shot of ether (or just plain carb cleaner or even WD40) into the airbox will verify if you've got some spark. If you get a short run, then the electrics are probably working and so look at fuel and compression. No run, then start with electrics.

Good luck. This can be the most vexing problem -- and it generally winds up with a simple fix.
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post #7 of 11 Old 04-01-2010, 09:25 AM
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Just to maybe give you some thought, My bike would not start. It turns out it was all the valves were tight by at least .008 - .015. It would only start when it was really warm (i.e. next to my wood stove) or when it was tow started. Sometimes it would sputter and I would give it a shot of ether to hopefully spring it alive. The ether would completely kill any sputtering that was happening. The point is, I never thought ether would have a negative impact (as far as producing a better bang) Just a thought. Will
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post #8 of 11 Old 04-01-2010, 11:21 AM
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Most engine manufacturer's say to never use ether and the diesel guys are most emphatic. I'll use it when necessary, but I try to keep the shot short. I've had several old school mechanics say that carb clearner is better cause it doesn't make as big as bang.

When I bought my wifes KLR250, it had been sitting. Gas was bad and carb was crudded. When I was tired of kikking, I'd hit it with a shot of cleaner and it would start right up. I actually rigged a 1/2inch tube into the airbox so I could hit it with the seat on. Cleaned the carb, tank and richened the low speed jet and now it's a one-kikker.
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post #9 of 11 Old 04-01-2010, 07:35 PM
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Start with something simple. Have you checked the main fuse?

Greg
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post #10 of 11 Old 05-12-2010, 04:09 PM Thread Starter
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As everyone has said...something simple and um...stupid. I rebult the carb and while I had the intake and carb off I stuffed a small cleanroom rag in the intake. Two weeks later intake and carb went back on...forgot to remove the rag that had somehow gotton pushed into the intake even farther. Removed raq...put everything back together and voila...runs like a top. Thanks for your help. My friend tells me it was a classic snafu. Lesson learned.
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