Really guys? I would hope you can figure out a bad cable before asking for help. Didn't the OP mention that his problem was NOT the cable but below the pivoting arm? Anyway, my pivoting clutch arm that exits the engine cover is way too stiff! What do I do next?
How do you know what needs to be replaced when the clutch is gone? Mine was slipping then I spent some hard time in the woods and it's spent. I'd rather not spend the money on a kit with plates, discs and springs if I can just buy one or the other. I'm poor.
Do you have a manual? There will be specifications for the friction plate thickness, steel plate warpage, and spring free length.
It's reasonable to expect the friction plates will be shot, at minimum. When you get it apart, check for visible signs of wear on the steel plates, such as discoloration, gouging, and etc. Check flatness by laying the plates out on a surface block or glass sheet and see how thick of (if any) feeler gauge you can slide under it. If they meet the specification and don't look cooked, you're good to go.
Measure the spring free length with a dial caliper. If they are in spec, you could reuse them, but it's been my experience that you're better off replacing them unless they are very close to the standard length. The springs are instrumental to good clutch performance, and are relatively cheap in the aftermarket.
One last thing to look at is where the friction plates ride in the clutch basket. If there are grooves worn in the basket that would keep the plates from moving in and out freely, it would have to be replaced. I've only seen this once on a very high mileage and abused bike, but it is something to look out for.