replacing rear shocker - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

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post #1 of 11 Old 11-03-2010, 02:22 PM Thread Starter
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replacing rear shocker

i am replacing the rear shocker on a 2003 bike and am not sure how much i need to take the bike apart to get it in, it looks like the air-box needs to come out.... but does that mean taking the whole rear subframe off / is it easer to do so? do i have to take apart any of the bottom links or can it just bolt straight in? also i don't have a lift or a jack of any kind whats the best way of getting the back wheel of the ground with it stable enough to work on (iv propped it up with wood under the back rack and it works but is slightly to wobbly)
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post #2 of 11 Old 11-03-2010, 03:14 PM
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the shocker is a thing you do to a girl
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post #3 of 11 Old 11-03-2010, 03:22 PM
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From my experience stripping a bike down for parts sale, use a good stand (Harbor freight has them for under $100), undo the dog bones and you should be able to get at the bottom. Take the side panels and seat off to access the top. Easy as that and the new one goes in reverse order.

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Last edited by Buildit; 11-03-2010 at 03:26 PM.
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post #4 of 11 Old 11-03-2010, 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by jonboyf View Post
the shocker is a thing you do to a girl
So if I replace my gf's shocker I'll have a better ride?

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post #5 of 11 Old 11-03-2010, 04:16 PM Thread Starter
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or more likely no ride for a while..........

do you need to be able to get to both sides of the top of the shock - its not no seat side panels tank or shrouds on atm (tanks of for summot else) i can get to the left side of it but not the right side which is behind the airbox, don't i need space to get a spanner on both sides of it?

i know that a proper stand would be the best/easiest option but am looking for the cheapest workable option

Last edited by rob-grout; 11-03-2010 at 04:37 PM.
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post #6 of 11 Old 11-03-2010, 06:07 PM
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I was able to get the shock out on a 99' without removing the air box or separating the sub frame. I'm unaware of any change between the two bikes that would change that. But separating the subframe is easy (two bolts under the seat) if that is the only way you can get in there.
As for the lift, if you plan to keep the bike and do your own work it is an invaluable tool. Maybe someone local could loan you theirs for a day to get the shock changed? I've got two because after getting the first for $55 a second bigger one for $65 was a no brainer with five bikes in the garage. Cinder blocks and 2X4's only get you so far and don't allow you to secure the bike to the lift.

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post #7 of 11 Old 11-04-2010, 04:34 AM Thread Starter
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thanks. ill give it a go with out separating the subframe n fingers crossed ill be able to get to it enough.
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post #8 of 11 Old 11-04-2010, 02:50 PM
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Get the bike up on something under the frame, leaving the rear tire just touching the ground.You want the shock fully unloaded.

At the top of the shock is a bolt that comes out from the left side.

Undo the bolt through the clevis at the bottom of the shock.You may want to free up the suspension lever at to create more room to pull the shock out. Lean the shock to one side and pull it out the bottom.

Tom

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Last edited by Tom Schmitz; 11-04-2010 at 02:59 PM.
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post #9 of 11 Old 11-04-2010, 05:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rob-grout View Post
i know that a proper stand would be the best/easiest option but am looking for the cheapest workable option

go behind your local grocery store and "borrow" a milk crate. To use it, lean the bike over onto the kick stand, slide the crate under, and set the bike back down. I have yet to do any work that has made the bike un stable and created a need to be tied down....doo hicky, spooning new tires on, subframe bolt, crash bars. all have been done using a milk crate.

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post #10 of 11 Old 11-04-2010, 05:50 PM Thread Starter
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thanks for the advice guys i did it this evening all went well, the only annoying thing was the shock needed a lot of pre-load adjustment and id all ready put it in the bike so there was very little space to get the tool to it - it took nearly an hour to get it feeling right. haven't ridden it more than around a gravel car park (parking lot for those across the pond) so i don't know how it handles yet. i also did the front springs at the same time and it was a right pain trying to compress them to get the caps on (it took 3 people) feels very hard when bouncing the front up and down but felt good to ride (around a gravel car park in the rain, at night, on a bike i don't know)


how long are the stock spacers supposed to be?

edit: forget to mention that i found an old axle stand in my mates garage which worked well and was stable even when there was 3 of us pushing on the fork spring as hard as we could / 1 person standing on the bike

Last edited by rob-grout; 11-04-2010 at 05:54 PM.
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