Removing Rims for New Tires? - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
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post #1 of 12 Old 03-18-2011, 07:26 AM Thread Starter
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Question Removing Rims for New Tires?

Time for new tires (2008)! I bought a pair of Metzler Tourance I thought Id try and thought Id save some money by removing the current ones. Being mechanically challenged I have a friend helping me who has a KLR. Any thing I should be aware of ? Any maintenance I should do while I have the rims off the bike?

Thanks!
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post #2 of 12 Old 03-18-2011, 10:15 AM
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Sammy -

I always put a bit of grease in the tach drive.

Check the brake pads for wear. It sounds like you have about 6K on the bike, so you're pads won't be worn out, but check that they are wearing evenly. Check to make sure that the calipers are sliding freely on the pins that come off the mounting bracket. That's a time-related thing, not mileage.

Check the cush drive in the rear, looking for an excessively sloppy fit, wear, chunks gone, etc.

With the rear wheel out you're halfway home, so you might consider pulling the swing-arm pivot bolt and lubing it. I guarantee it's rusty.

When you have the tires off the wheels, slip the axle through the hubs and, holding the axle, give them a spin. Look for any dips, wobbles, and dents in the rim.

Rotate the wheel bearings with your pinkie, feeling for any rough spots. Look for signs of overheating (grease has been spit out) and loss of lubrication. If they look clean and feel smooth, they are probably OK.

That's all I got. anybody?

T

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post #3 of 12 Old 03-18-2011, 11:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Schmitz View Post
Sammy -

I always put a bit of grease in the tach drive.

Check the brake pads for wear. It sounds like you have about 6K on the bike, so you're pads won't be worn out, but check that they are wearing evenly. Check to make sure that the calipers are sliding freely on the pins that come off the mounting bracket. That's a time-related thing, not mileage.

Check the cush drive in the rear, looking for an excessively sloppy fit, wear, chunks gone, etc.

With the rear wheel out you're halfway home, so you might consider pulling the swing-arm pivot bolt and lubing it. I guarantee it's rusty.

When you have the tires off the wheels, slip the axle through the hubs and, holding the axle, give them a spin. Look for any dips, wobbles, and dents in the rim.

Rotate the wheel bearings with your pinkie, feeling for any rough spots. Look for signs of overheating (grease has been spit out) and loss of lubrication. If they look clean and feel smooth, they are probably OK.

That's all I got. anybody?

T

+1 to all the above.

I would pull the shock linkage off and grease the bearings also.

Anti-seize or grease on the swing arm bolt and axles. BTW you'll need to loosen the back motor mount bolt (under the swing arm) to get the swing arm bolt back in.

The front axle needs the end opposite the threads smooth and lubed. When you install the front wheel the fork needs to be able to slide on it so that it's not bound up. Procedure here check the pictures

When the wheels are back on check the spokes.

No eye has seen, no ear has heard, no mind has conceived what God has prepared for those who love him. 1 Cor 2:9
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post #4 of 12 Old 03-18-2011, 09:02 PM
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Make absolutely certain that your you orientate the tab on the speedo drive correctly, or your cable will quickly fail.
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post #5 of 12 Old 03-19-2011, 08:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Schmitz View Post
Sammy -

I always put a bit of grease in the tach*SPEEDO drive.

Check the brake pads for wear. It sounds like you have about 6K on the bike, so you're pads won't be worn out, but check that they are wearing evenly. Check to make sure that the calipers are sliding freely on the pins that come off the mounting bracket. That's a time-related thing, not mileage.

Check the cush drive in the rear, looking for an excessively sloppy fit, wear, chunks gone, etc.

With the rear wheel out you're halfway home, so you might consider pulling the swing-arm pivot bolt and lubing it. I guarantee it's rusty.

When you have the tires off the wheels, slip the axle through the hubs and, holding the axle, give them a spin. Look for any dips, wobbles, and dents in the rim.

Rotate the wheel bearings with your pinkie, feeling for any rough spots. Look for signs of overheating (grease has been spit out) and loss of lubrication. If they look clean and feel smooth, they are probably OK.

That's all I got. anybody?

T
*Just to avoid any confusion

Don H
Spring Valley AZ
'03 KLR 650/DS sidecar
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post #6 of 12 Old 03-19-2011, 11:17 AM
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Remove the calipers for ease of weel installation?

Not sure if it's relevant since I own a older KLR, but I remove the brake calipers on the front and the rear and tie them off with something so they don't hang on the brake line. This makes putting the wheels back on real easy.

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post #7 of 12 Old 03-19-2011, 10:00 PM Thread Starter
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Smile

Thanks to all,, We are going to attempt to take both wheels off in the AM. Not sure if this is possible. Maybe we can balance it on a block and wood. Kinda wanted to do both wheels at the same time.
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post #8 of 12 Old 03-20-2011, 03:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cabrito View Post
Not sure if it's relevant since I own a older KLR, but I remove the brake calipers on the front and the rear and tie them off with something so they don't hang on the brake line. This makes putting the wheels back on real easy.
+ 1; plus . . . good idea to stick something between the brake pads on the calipers . . . making sure you can sandwich the rotor easily when reassembly time comes . . .
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post #9 of 12 Old 03-20-2011, 04:40 AM
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[quote=sammy;76731]
Quote:
Thanks to all,, We are going to attempt to take both wheels off in the AM. Not sure if this is possible. Maybe we can balance it on a block and wood. Kinda wanted to do both wheels at the same time.
You could balance the tires right on the bike. Before you re-install the brake calipers and rear chain, spin the tires on the axles. When the tire finally stops, mark "dead top"and repeat. Mark the second result, and place a sticky weight on the rim. Most tire repair shops have 1 oz / 7 gram self adhesive wheel weights. A couple of bucks should be a reasonable price for a strip. There are usually a dozen weights on the strip, enough to cover several tire changes. Your new tires should have a white dot on the sidewall, indicating the heavy spot of the tire. This dot should be positioned opposite your valve stem. This will give you a a rough balance, needing only some fine tuning. You'll have to pull your rear axle, drop the wheel and re-install your rear chain. Or, you could chase around the neighborhood half the morning trying to rig a balance stand.

Handling tire swaps isn't really about strength or super-leverage....I find it's more about tire positioning and manipulation. You'll find warm tires will be easier to work with. Some time on the floor boards of the pickup with the heater blowing on them will help a lot. WD40 makes for a good tire lubricant when it comes down to that final few inches of streeetch to get the bead over the rim. Baby powder, talc, or corn starch placed in a trash bag with the inner tubes, shake, will make the tube placement much easier. Enough air in the tube to give it some shape will allow the tube to move away from tire irons, helping to prevent pinches. Slow and methodical.

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Last edited by vatrader; 03-20-2011 at 04:53 AM.
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post #10 of 12 Old 03-30-2011, 12:12 PM
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I bet my cable is going to fail....I never looked for any tab when I swapped out the fender...and never rode it since. DAMN SNOW.....im going to try too pop off my wheels to put on my new big block kendas. what about the chain adjusters, they look like little buggers...do you have to do anything with them?
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