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2009 klr 650. 16t sprocket and chain sizing

18K views 21 replies 13 participants last post by  desertraider 
#1 ·
if i would change my 15t out for a 16t, would i for sure have to get a new chain so it would fit or will i get away with using the original chain. i would like to know from the people who have done this mod.
thanks,
tylerw
 
#2 ·
tylerw -

There is sufficient adjustment at the back of the swing arm to allow a 16t sprocket to be installed.

How many miles are on your chain, and what general condition is it in?

Often, it is not prudent to install new sprockets with an old chain. As the chain wears it's pitch changes a wee bit, making the fit on a new sprocket (the old sprockets will be correspondingly worn) a bit off.

T
 
#3 ·
the chain is not worn all that much. i figured the new sprocket and slightly used chain would work smooth enough together. I was just hoping to get away with not having to buy a new chain. But yeah, i figured the clearance would be just a hair to tight to be able to slip a 16t in there.
 
#6 ·
Going from 15 to 16t will knock about 400 rpm of your mph. If you were spinning 4500 @ 60 mph you'll be about 4100 @ 60 with the 16t.

You'll have less roll on power and hill climbing power when you raise the gearing, more top end 'natch. I went to a 16t because I mostly commute @ 60mph, it really helped the motor to relax.

You didn't ask but Primary Drive Front Sprocket 16 Tooth
 
#9 ·
I ran the 16 for 14,000 miles including a trip to alaska and back. It works well on the road if you have a light load. Loaded down with gear , headwinds or hills it effectively left me with 4 usable gears. Stock gearing is better for me. My 2006 uses no oil even running at 5500 RPM for hours. And I felt a big difference in 1st gear. It is very tolerable on the road but annoying in anything but docile off road. It is a mod I encourage everyone to try. It is cheap and easy to change and change back. Really depends on your riding style and terrain. Most my road riding is 2 lanes with 55 MPH speedlimits. Stock gearing is better for me.
 
#12 ·
No, no puller is required to change out the counter shaft sprocket. You will need a 1 1/16 SAE or a 27mm socket for the counter shaft sprocket nut. And this is where I'd offer a suggestion. There is a clip washer that locks the nut in place that will need to be knocked flat....a ratchet extension and a hammer will work for those of us with Primitive Pete tendencies.

And now for the suggestion.....take your socket and the bike to a repair shop that uses air impact wrenches, and have them rattle the counter shaft sprocket nut loose. Once they break it loose, snug it up a bit, ride it to your work area and finish removing the nut. On re-install, I take the nut up snug, and re-bend the locking clip so the nut can't back off. There are horror stories all over the internet and around campfires of people using 12 foot pipes as extensions on their breaker bars to get this nut loose. Some get their six fat sister in laws to weigh the bike down, while the back wheel is tied to the clothesline pole. And after they take that pole out, to the trailer hitch on the Buick. Once in a while, someone will pipe up and say they got theirs loose with a quarter inch drive ratchet, and hence, no problem has ever existed regarding the counter shaft nut removal. It bears pointing out that their experience isn't universal. That nut can make a preacher swear, and add four new phrases to his repitoire.

The first time is the worst. After that, I seem to be able to get them off with a ratchet and socket. They shouldn't be re-installed loose, as the counter shaft seal is behind all that, and requires some pressure to stay in place. It doesn't require enough pressure to require a torque setting, IMO.
 
#14 ·
Best bang for the buck out there right now I believe is right he-ya:

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p...4&navTitle=Drive&webCatId=9&prodFamilyId=2105

Even with shipping, it will be far less than the factory sprocket from a dealer. Add a few odds and ends like an oil filter or two, and the bad taste of the delivery charge will lessen. And the washer can outlast you. No need to replace it. Unless of course you re-design the molecular structure of the item while removing it.....then you might need a new one. Hit the select box for sprocket tooth options. But you prolly already knew that. KLR folks is clever.
 
#16 ·
I installed a 16t with approximately 3500 miles without an issue..Commute on highway and tac displays 5000 rpm at 75 mph..Helped a little with my oil consumption and plenty of room for chain adjustment...I ride mostly highway to and from (60 mile round trip) and believe this to be my best mod, that is until my K761s arrive.

birddog
 
#20 ·
OK, I am going to be stupid here, but I want to be sure.My chain is toast and I want to replace the sprockets and chain. Since the bike is used primarily for commuting (some day I may actually take it off road) I figured I would try the 16 tooth sprocket. Can someone tell me the specification for the chain. I can't find my manual right now.
 
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