.22 Mod/Slide Drill - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

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post #1 of 30 Old 06-29-2011, 01:16 PM Thread Starter
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.22 Mod/Slide Drill

Okay, after questioning whether these mods would even be noticed for the type of riding I do, I told myself I was going to go ahead and do it and see for myself.

The time has come.

Anybody have any good instructions or a good link they could share about doing these? I'm going to be hitting Lowe's tomorrow and can pick up the materials and the proper drill bit since no matter how careful I swear I'm going to be with any drill bit set I buy, they wind up broken and scattered all over a toolbox drawer.

Any advice or instructions would be appreciated. Like a child, actual photos have more impact for me than text.

Thanks,

Eric



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post #2 of 30 Old 06-29-2011, 02:05 PM
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http://www.klrforum.com/showpost.php...61&postcount=2

Here's a good pictorial and guide for going into the carb from one of our own.

And Tom put together an excellent walk through...

http://www.klrforum.com/showpost.php...91&postcount=3

The drill bit required is a 7/64 that can be bought individually at most stores. The #4 washer is critical. Available at hardware stores that have a good fastener selection. Stainless or brass preferably. Aluminum or zinc may be just fine, but I have reservations, and no experience with them in this application. Opinions vary, I like a single washer rather than two....handle the flimsy slide diaphragm like it was nitroglycerin...or pay for a new one like it was gold.

This, and a little Vaseline to help keep the slide diaphragm in place, some patience...


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Last edited by vatrader; 06-29-2011 at 04:45 PM.
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post #3 of 30 Old 06-29-2011, 03:44 PM
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First on the list with a bunch of good links...

http://www.klrforum.com/showthread.php?t=9687

T

Tom [email protected]

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post #4 of 30 Old 06-29-2011, 06:33 PM
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When I did the .22 mod (BTW I think it's a dumb name for the mod) I did 2 washers and opened the fuel screw. Stock bike. I think I set my screw @ 2.5 turns out (others recommendation) which helped a lot. With no other mods 2 washers is too rich here. Removed the airbox lid and it was much better but surged (lean) at 70mph. Put it back on and removed the snorkle and it was good.
I left the carb on the bike, Easy to get the slide out. Removed the carb from the rubber boots and turned it to get access to drill the alloy plug out. Left the cables hooked up.
I don't think I'd do 2 washers if you don't plan to go further.
Recently did the frugal exhaust mod which took advantage of the .22 mod. Those few things perked the bike up quite abit for very little money. Put an exhaust tip on to tidy up the look. Now looks and sounds great.

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post #5 of 30 Old 06-29-2011, 07:55 PM Thread Starter
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Cool. Thanks, guys, I appreciate it. I'll be back with a report after I get it done. Hoping to do it tomorrow afternoon.



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post #6 of 30 Old 06-29-2011, 08:30 PM Thread Starter
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Just a couple of quick questions if anybody feels like answering them. The photos were a big help in reference. Thanks again for all the info.

Is it necessary to remove the carb, or can this be done by simply rotating it? I've rotated it to get to the bottom to clean some gunk out of the pilot jet in the past. Is it easier to rotate, or just pull it all the way out? If you're not going to pull it out, is it necessary to remove the tank? Don't mind doing it, but won't if I don't need to.

The cap that must be removed to adjust the fuel mixture screw: is it necessary to cover the screw back up in some way or is the plug just a "so nobody messes with it" deal? Is it okay to just leave it exposed when you're done?

Thanks again,

Eric



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post #7 of 30 Old 06-29-2011, 08:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by planalp;85387[QUOTE
]Just a couple of quick questions if anybody feels like answering them. The photos were a big help in reference. Thanks again for all the info.

Is it necessary to remove the carb, or can this be done by simply rotating it?

Just roll the carburetor.

I've rotated it to get to the bottom to clean some gunk out of the pilot jet in the past. Is it easier to rotate, or just pull it all the way out? If you're not going to pull it out, is it necessary to remove the tank?

May not be necessary, I find it easier to pull the tank.

Don't mind doing it, but won't if I don't need to.

The cap that must be removed to adjust the fuel mixture screw: is it necessary to cover the screw back up in some way or is the plug just a "so nobody messes with it" deal? Is it okay to just leave it exposed when you're done?

Leave it exposed. It may be necessary to tweak it some more.

Thanks again,

Eric
Reassembly of the slide diaphragm can be a little challenging, getting it to seal. Patience.

******
“many a trip continues long after movement in time and space have ceased”- Steinbeck, [I]"Travels with Charlie"
[/I]
[IMG]http://i718.photobucket.com/albums/ww187/vatrader01/KLR%20mechanical/04e28c5e.jpg[/IMG]

[FONT="Century Gothic"][I]Sometimes your only available transportation is a leap of faith[/I] [/FONT]
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post #8 of 30 Old 06-29-2011, 09:01 PM
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vat said it.
remove the tank
be patient getting the needle back in the hole since it'll be going down at an angle.

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post #9 of 30 Old 06-29-2011, 09:17 PM Thread Starter
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Right on, guys. Appreciate the advice.



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post #10 of 30 Old 06-29-2011, 11:28 PM
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Please let us know how it goes and what your experience is like after...
I've done the Doo, tweeked the exhaust to remove the tweet, added a Pelican Hurricane im2100 to an '06 with 5K....the drill and washer is really the next thing I'm conidering...bike runs great right now, and, I have a new to me CB919 (900) sitting next to the KLR for when I need more throttle...

Good luck...
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