Ignition problems on 2011 KLR 650 - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
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post #1 of 26 Old 07-17-2011, 07:11 PM Thread Starter
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Ignition problems on 2011 KLR 650

Hey guys, I've never been in a forum or anything so sorry up front if I'm posting in the wrong place, or breaking some other sort of rules.

I bought a 2011 KLR 650 about a month ago and have right at 3K miles on it. Today I was riding through some woods and was coming down a hill when my bike shut off. My trip odometer was at 187 so I figured I went through my gas A LOT quicker than I normally do and switched it to reserve. Still nothing.
I then determined that must have been a blown fuse, so I went to take off the seat and found out that the stock toolkit that comes with the KLR doesn't have the tools necessary to take off the seat and check the fuses.
After pushing the bike over a mile to the nearest road, calling for a ride and getting home. I was able to use some tools to check everything out.
I'm not getting any spark to the cylinder. What/why could be causing that? The bike is still under warranty but I think if I take it in they will find something that happens to fall outside the warranty somehow.

Thanks
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post #2 of 26 Old 07-17-2011, 07:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ackeitha View Post
Hey guys, I've never been in a forum or anything so sorry up front if I'm posting in the wrong place, or breaking some other sort of rules.

I bought a 2011 KLR 650 about a month ago and have right at 3K miles on it. Today I was riding through some woods and was coming down a hill when my bike shut off. My trip odometer was at 187 so I figured I went through my gas A LOT quicker than I normally do and switched it to reserve. Still nothing.
I then determined that must have been a blown fuse, so I went to take off the seat and found out that the stock toolkit that comes with the KLR doesn't have the tools necessary to take off the seat and check the fuses.
After pushing the bike over a mile to the nearest road, calling for a ride and getting home. I was able to use some tools to check everything out.
I'm not getting any spark to the cylinder. What/why could be causing that? The bike is still under warranty but I think if I take it in they will find something that happens to fall outside the warranty somehow.

Thanks

The side stand safety switch most likely. Most disable it and the clutch safety switch. There's 2 wires from the side stand switch jump them together and see if it starts.

Safety Switch Bypass

No eye has seen, no ear has heard, no mind has conceived what God has prepared for those who love him. 1 Cor 2:9
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post #3 of 26 Old 07-17-2011, 07:31 PM
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ackeitha -

Welcome to the forum!

Now, some more info, please.

I presume you have power and that the bike can crank over.

Do like spec says and check the interlocks.

Have you pulled the tank to check for chafing of the wire harness near the coil. They were supposed to have fixed that a couple of years ago, but...

Have you checked all your ground connections to make sure they are secure?

Check the wiring harness extending from the ignition switch and make sure that it is not being strained when the bars are turned. There have been reports of broken wires in the ignition switch area.

T

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post #4 of 26 Old 07-17-2011, 08:09 PM Thread Starter
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Update

Tom, you are correct. The bike does try to crank, it just never fires. I'm in the process of checking the wires again. I already had the tank off when I was checking for spark and didn't notice any wearing on the wires near the top tube.

Spec, I did a quick check of the sidestand safety by shorting out the connection at the interlock with no luck.

Back to the garage for me... (Why can't I get something as simple as a blown fuse? )
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post #5 of 26 Old 07-17-2011, 08:54 PM
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This was the spot where the wire chafed on the first Gen1 bikes. This resulted in a recall and is supposed to be fixed on your bike. Might be worth a look anyway.





Electrical issues are a sumbitch. Check all the connections, disconnecting and reconnecting. Test as you go so that you can isolate what the problem was.

I don't mean to be Captain Obvious, but you do have gas in the bowl of the carb, right? It's not a petcock failure where the petcock pooped out or the vacuum line came off?

I wish I could come up with a genius idea for ya....

T

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“The kid poured him another straight rye and I think he doctored it with water down behind the bar because when he came up with it he looked as guilty as if he'd kicked his grandmother.” -Philip Marlowe

“'Why' and 'How' are words so important they cannot be too often used.” -Napoleon Bonaparte

Sting like a butterfly.
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Last edited by Tom Schmitz; 07-17-2011 at 08:58 PM.
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post #6 of 26 Old 07-17-2011, 09:35 PM Thread Starter
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When I took the tank off for the first time, I had to disconnect both the vacuum and gas line from the petcock. I just checked the drain plug on the carb and it has fuel as well.

I took the spark plug out earlier and I wasn't getting any spark. I then checked the spark plug wire by taking out the spark plug, sticking a screwdriver in there and holding it next to the frame as a ground and still didn't get any spark. Going down the line, how do I check my coil?

Thanks for all the pictures!
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post #7 of 26 Old 07-17-2011, 09:47 PM
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If it were me having to get this bike going, I would be working at ruling out a fuel issue. Take the air filter out and crank the bike, shooting an aerosol like WD40 in the carburetor intake. If it fires, re-focus on the fuel delivery. If the song remains the same, go back to your electrical Exorcism. I'm not sure how you are checking for spark. Grounding fails as often as it works for me. An inline spark tester is only a few bucks and removes any question.

EDIT: Sorry. Sometimes I get distracted by things like the phone when putting together a post. You answered some of my questions between the time I began the post, and the time it actually got posted. Your skills at diagnostics may far exceed mine. I have little faith in the grounding method, and rely on an inline tester. About three bucks at an auto supply house.

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post #8 of 26 Old 07-17-2011, 09:54 PM
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First check the connections to the coil. Coils don't often go bad.

You can check the resistance of the windings. The primary (across the two blade terminals) should be about 2 ohms. The secondary (across the black or green terminal and the spark plug wire terminal) should be about 10Kohms.

To do a basic check of the igniter, remove the igniter module connector. The voltage across the brown and black/yellow wires, with the ignition switch on, should be battery voltage (13ish).

More dumb stuff - try a new spark plug and check for spark again. Disable the interlocks to get them out of the way. Make sure the battery is fully charged.

Do the dumb stuff. If all the tests check out and the dumb stuff is OK, then you're going to need to get the coil tested or replaced, and then move on to checking the peak voltage of the igniter, and the crankshaft sensor. Yuck.

T

Tom [email protected]

“The kid poured him another straight rye and I think he doctored it with water down behind the bar because when he came up with it he looked as guilty as if he'd kicked his grandmother.” -Philip Marlowe

“'Why' and 'How' are words so important they cannot be too often used.” -Napoleon Bonaparte

Sting like a butterfly.
Noli Timere Messorem

Last edited by Tom Schmitz; 07-17-2011 at 10:01 PM.
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post #9 of 26 Old 07-17-2011, 10:08 PM
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By the by, do you have any sort of manual?

Don't cut anything. If worst comes to worse, and adverse as I am to the idea, this should be an easy warranty issue.

Remember, too, that if you have fuel, air, and spark at the right time the engine will run. Look for the simple things first.

T

Tom [email protected]

“The kid poured him another straight rye and I think he doctored it with water down behind the bar because when he came up with it he looked as guilty as if he'd kicked his grandmother.” -Philip Marlowe

“'Why' and 'How' are words so important they cannot be too often used.” -Napoleon Bonaparte

Sting like a butterfly.
Noli Timere Messorem
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post #10 of 26 Old 07-17-2011, 10:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom Schmitz View Post
and adverse as I am to the idea, this should be an easy warranty issue.

Look for the simple things first.

T
I couldn't agree with either comments more!!

Check out the simple stuff.. If it's not any of them, remember that your bike's new and you paid for the warranty when you bought the bike as part of the purchase price.. Sometimes you gotta use it..
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