Crash guards - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

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post #1 of 13 Old 08-11-2011, 08:31 PM Thread Starter
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Crash guards

What is a good crash guard you would recommend for a 2011? Also what do you use for a non-factory skid plate?
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post #2 of 13 Old 08-12-2011, 08:41 AM
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I used SW MOTECH, crashed @65/mph(high-side), the bars were "untouched". My skid is also SW and it has ZERO damage. So that is one possibility,BUT I like the H.T.bars as they take bags, which weights the front end more, a big plus IMHO. Happy Shopping!

~Things work out best for those that make the best of the way things work out~
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post #3 of 13 Old 08-12-2011, 09:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by masterlink View Post
I used SW MOTECH, crashed @65/mph(high-side), the bars were "untouched". My skid is also SW and it has ZERO damage. So that is one possibility,BUT I like the H.T.bars as they take bags, which weights the front end more, a big plus IMHO. Happy Shopping!
I use the HT bars with the little HT pannier-type bags that are specific to them and agree with masterlink about weighting the front end.

Downside: The little HT bags are expensive, just like any little nylon bike bags like tank bags, etc. You could probably craft your own for a lot less. Plus, you have to be careful what you put in them because whatever it is will be between the bike and the ground if the bike is crashed or dropped.

Pluses: They transfer more weight to the front end (depending on what you put in them, of course) and they help protect your legs from the wind and cold.

I use the HT skid plate but they kind of all look the same to me. In my opinion, the only downside to the HT skid plate is that the hole around the engine oil drain plug is too big and really doesn't need to be there at all.

Unless somebody else has found a way to do it, I find it's necessary to completely remove the skidplate when doing an oil change because no matter how you orient/lean the bike, the last vestiges of oil that come out of the crankcase after the flow slows down will cling to the bottom of the case and flow to another point and then drip down, filling the top of the skid plate with oil and you have to pull it off to clean it up, anyway. I don't see any practical reason to have a big hole around the oil drain plug that rocks, etc. could penetrate.



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post #4 of 13 Old 08-12-2011, 09:11 AM
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I've got the SW Motech and haven't regretted it.




"In a car you're always in a compartment, and because you're used to it you don't realize that through that car window everything you see is just more TV." R. Pirsig

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post #5 of 13 Old 08-13-2011, 06:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by planalp View Post
I use the HT bars with the little HT pannier-type bags that are specific to them and agree with masterlink about weighting the front end.

Downside: The little HT bags are expensive, just like any little nylon bike bags like tank bags, etc. You could probably craft your own for a lot less. Plus, you have to be careful what you put in them because whatever it is will be between the bike and the ground if the bike is crashed or dropped.

Pluses: They transfer more weight to the front end (depending on what you put in them, of course) and they help protect your legs from the wind and cold.

I use the HT skid plate but they kind of all look the same to me. In my opinion, the only downside to the HT skid plate is that the hole around the engine oil drain plug is too big and really doesn't need to be there at all.

Unless somebody else has found a way to do it, I find it's necessary to completely remove the skidplate when doing an oil change because no matter how you orient/lean the bike, the last vestiges of oil that come out of the crankcase after the flow slows down will cling to the bottom of the case and flow to another point and then drip down, filling the top of the skid plate with oil and you have to pull it off to clean it up, anyway. I don't see any practical reason to have a big hole around the oil drain plug that rocks, etc. could penetrate.
Oddly enough, I have the happy trails plate, and I never have an issue with oil being caught by the plate. Maybe I do and just don't care. However, I have not seen any drips while parked.
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post #6 of 13 Old 08-13-2011, 11:52 AM
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I would recommend Givi as they make excellent hiway leg rests without needing to add pegs. I have not read any posts about them cracking like Motechs have.



I have a JNS skidplate. Not yet tested, but excellent build quality. Made in USA

Erik
2003 Bandit 1200S
2009 KLR 650

74 Honda CB360
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post #7 of 13 Old 08-13-2011, 12:11 PM
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WADR: I had a high side @65/mph. The MOTECH bars were in perfect shape, which saved the entire engine. The highway pegs install in 45seconds per side, and are very nice folding pegs.

~Things work out best for those that make the best of the way things work out~
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post #8 of 13 Old 08-13-2011, 12:48 PM
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My bike came with SW Motech bars when I bought it and I love them! They look much better than the Givi bars to me even though they do cost a little more but you can also upgrade to extended foot pegs and a centerstand from SW Motech that bolts straight on witht the SW crash bars.
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post #9 of 13 Old 10-21-2011, 10:46 AM
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I just recieved my SWMOTECH bars so I can't say much about them other than the reviews that I've read sold me.
I use a JNS skid plate and I really am impressed with it , same coverage as the stock plastic except it covers the water pump better , goes past the drain plug - it could cover the stator side better but with the bars it won't matter plus the doo adjuster is there. It's aluminum & powder coated.

Last edited by Two Trackin Fool; 10-21-2011 at 10:50 AM.
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post #10 of 13 Old 10-21-2011, 11:34 AM
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I've had a bunch of get-offs with my Happy trails set up. Not the best fit out of the box and I seem to remember that there was a mix of metric and SAE fasteners but they held up great till the last oops. Washed out in gravel turn and broke my ankle, leg, and hand. Didn't break a mirror or turn signal on the bike but the engine guard sacrificed itself. Those triangles that mount on the engine mount areas were so deformed from the crash that I had to order a new engine guard but but re-used the bars. (pounded the bars back into shape but couldn't do much with the engine guard piece. Can't open the radiator cap with the bars on, but they do pivot down when you undo some fasteners. I've heard good and bad stories about every brand.

VAC
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