neutrail saftey switch - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
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post #1 of 6 Old 08-23-2011, 01:25 PM Thread Starter
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Question neutrail saftey switch

The other day my new 2011 KLR650 wouldn't start the battery was dead. I couldn't push start it because the bike has to be in neutrail to start. Is their away around this? I travel out in woods alot to fish and some time theirs no phone service. I had 2007 model KLR that would push start if needed.
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post #2 of 6 Old 08-23-2011, 04:32 PM
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Respectfully, don't know why a Gen 2 won't bump-start; since the coil is powered with 12 VDC from the battery, a faster run may be required to generate enough "juice" than with the Gen 2 (CDI powered from exciter coil of alternator), but . . . oughta start; whether in neutral or in gear, ignition circuitry still active with switch on.

Gen 2 with dead-shorted battery? A problem, since the short would appear across the ignition coil primary terminals.

The Gen 2 Transistor Controlled Breakerless Ignition (TCBI) was a great leap backward from the Gen 1 CDI, IMHO.

Last edited by LoneRider; 08-23-2011 at 04:35 PM.
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post #3 of 6 Old 08-23-2011, 08:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shot View Post
The other day my new 2011 KLR650 wouldn't start the battery was dead. I couldn't push start it because the bike has to be in neutrail to start. Is their away around this? I travel out in woods alot to fish and some time theirs no phone service. I had 2007 model KLR that would push start if needed.

Welcome to the forum.

They're are 2 safety switches 1 on the side stand and 1 on the clutch. It's the one on the clutch that locks out the transmission. Has to be in neutral or clutch pulled in to start. Disabling the clutch switch will allow the bike to push start but will also allow the starter to crank the bike in gear with predicable result!

The side stand switch can be problematic also, mine's disabled. I figure if you can't remember to put your stand up before you take off you probably shouldn't be riding in the first place!

No eye has seen, no ear has heard, no mind has conceived what God has prepared for those who love him. 1 Cor 2:9
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post #4 of 6 Old 08-24-2011, 01:00 AM
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Welcome to the forum.

They're are 2 safety switches 1 on the side stand and 1 on the clutch. It's the one on the clutch that locks out the transmission. Has to be in neutral or clutch pulled in to start. Disabling the clutch switch will allow the bike to push start but will also allow the starter to crank the bike in gear with predicable result!

The side stand switch can be problematic also, mine's disabled. I figure if you can't remember to put your stand up before you take off you probably shouldn't be riding in the first place!
To the best of my knowledge and belief, neither the clutch safety switch nor the side stand safety switch has any effect on bump-starting KLR's, even Gen 2's.

(As a test or demonstration, those with Gen 2 KLR's and functional clutch and kickstand safety switches can attempt a bump-start while coasting down a hill.)

With the ignition switch on, engine stop switch in RUN position, bike in gear (e.g., 3d gear), clutch disengaged, bike rolled and clutch popped, engine will turn over and bike engine will start (assuming operable engine condition), whether Gen 1 or 2.

Of course, in gear (neutral switch OPEN) with kickstand DOWN and functional kickstand safety switch (OPEN), ignition circuit is disabled--don't want to ride around with kickstand down anyway.

The neutral safety switch provides electrical continuity for the ELECTRIC starter circuit when the transmission is in neutral; is irrelevant to bump-starting a KLR, AFAIK.

The switch logic can be traced on Gen 2's at RoberTX's wiring diagram.

http://media.photobucket.com/image/'...0corrected.jpg

Last edited by LoneRider; 08-24-2011 at 01:47 AM.
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post #5 of 6 Old 08-24-2011, 09:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LoneRider View Post
To the best of my knowledge and belief, neither the clutch safety switch nor the side stand safety switch has any effect on bump-starting KLR's, even Gen 2's.

(As a test or demonstration, those with Gen 2 KLR's and functional clutch and kickstand safety switches can attempt a bump-start while coasting down a hill.)

With the ignition switch on, engine stop switch in RUN position, bike in gear (e.g., 3d gear), clutch disengaged, bike rolled and clutch popped, engine will turn over and bike engine will start (assuming operable engine condition), whether Gen 1 or 2.

Of course, in gear (neutral switch OPEN) with kickstand DOWN and functional kickstand safety switch (OPEN), ignition circuit is disabled--don't want to ride around with kickstand down anyway.

The neutral safety switch provides electrical continuity for the ELECTRIC starter circuit when the transmission is in neutral; is irrelevant to bump-starting a KLR, AFAIK.

The switch logic can be traced on Gen 2's at RoberTX's wiring diagram.

http://media.photobucket.com/image/'...0corrected.jpg



Yea you're right I think, the clutch/neutral switch just locks out the starter.

So a Gen 2 won't push start with a dead battery huh? That's progress for you....

No eye has seen, no ear has heard, no mind has conceived what God has prepared for those who love him. 1 Cor 2:9

Last edited by Spec; 08-24-2011 at 09:25 AM.
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post #6 of 6 Old 08-24-2011, 12:30 PM
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Yea you're right I think, the clutch/neutral switch just locks out the starter.

So a Gen 2 won't push start with a dead battery huh? That's progress for you....
If you can push the bike FAST enough to generate sufficient voltage, overcoming the dead battery, it should bump-start.

The alternator/rectifier must overcome the load of the dead battery, providing sufficient voltage for the ignition coil, for a Gen 2 bike to bump-start, seems to me.

Possible, depending upon the condition of the battery, and the vigor of the roll!
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