Venting or Jetting? 2011 with DG R Slip on - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
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post #1 of 11 Old 08-23-2011, 06:17 PM Thread Starter
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Venting or Jetting? 2011 with DG R Slip on

I recently installed a DG R slipon on my bike (yes the one on E-bay for 150.00) and it ran fine with the stock jetting and no air box mods. But of course after reading thread after thread of how lean they run and how I might damage the engine I simply had to do all the tweaks everyone seems to do. So I shimmed the needle with a single size 6 washer, installed the 148 main jet and set the air screw to 2 turns out. Oh and vented the air box under the seat with a few holes. And the bike ran like crap....stumbled all over the place between 4-5k and refused to start with the choke on so I reset the screw to factory setting and took the carb apart to check everything...thinking it was too rich. And that helped...ran pretty smooth for a day....next morning, ride to work, problems were back....I briefly turned the choke on and it almost killed it....so it can't be too lean....then ride home...fine! I dont get it....coud it be venting issues? I have read about gas tank lid vents and the one from the carb causing issues but would they causes problems like this? Only midrange? And off and on like that? Could the slide be sticking?
Thanks for any advice on this subject!!
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post #2 of 11 Old 08-23-2011, 08:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ramx101 View Post
I recently installed a DG R slipon on my bike (yes the one on E-bay for 150.00) and it ran fine with the stock jetting and no air box mods. But of course after reading thread after thread of how lean they run and how I might damage the engine I simply had to do all the tweaks everyone seems to do. So I shimmed the needle with a single size 6 washer, installed the 148 main jet and set the air screw to 2 turns out. Oh and vented the air box under the seat with a few holes. And the bike ran like crap....stumbled all over the place between 4-5k and refused to start with the choke on so I reset the screw to factory setting and took the carb apart to check everything...thinking it was too rich. And that helped...ran pretty smooth for a day....next morning, ride to work, problems were back....I briefly turned the choke on and it almost killed it....so it can't be too lean....then ride home...fine! I dont get it....coud it be venting issues? I have read about gas tank lid vents and the one from the carb causing issues but would they causes problems like this? Only midrange? And off and on like that? Could the slide be sticking?
Thanks for any advice on this subject!!

First off welcome.

If it ran good before you did the mods go back and look at what did, double check your work. Putting on a pipe and punching holes in your airbox won't cause your problems.

My guess is that the needle is not in right, it controls the mid range of the throttle. Could be the slide diaphragm as well. Be sure the carb's vent lines aren't plugged or kinked.

No eye has seen, no ear has heard, no mind has conceived what God has prepared for those who love him. 1 Cor 2:9
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post #3 of 11 Old 08-23-2011, 08:51 PM
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can tape those vent holes temporarily to find out if thats the problem. they make this stuff called duct tape.
mine setup is jardine, 6 x1" holes, jeted and brought the screw out. cant remember what jets. ran like a top right from the start. so i would bet on someting in the carb ..needle.

02 klr - heated vest and grips, corbin dished, EM doo, petcock mod, MB PCV mod, stainless oil filter, bash plate, mayher hand guards, low mount fender, power socket, tall windscreen, jardine exhaust, jetted, studebaker shifter, magnetic plug, airbox mod, k&N, kenda knobbies, DIY pelicans, HID light
96 zx11 - bone stock - saving for a collector plate
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post #4 of 11 Old 08-23-2011, 08:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ramx101 View Post
I recently installed a DG R slipon on my bike (yes the one on E-bay for 150.00) and it ran fine with the stock jetting and no air box mods. But of course after reading thread after thread of how lean they run and how I might damage the engine I simply had to do all the tweaks everyone seems to do. So I shimmed the needle with a single size 6 washer, installed the 148 main jet and set the air screw to 2 turns out. Oh and vented the air box under the seat with a few holes. And the bike ran like crap....stumbled all over the place between 4-5k and refused to start with the choke on so I reset the screw to factory setting and took the carb apart to check everything...thinking it was too rich. And that helped...ran pretty smooth for a day....next morning, ride to work, problems were back....I briefly turned the choke on and it almost killed it....so it can't be too lean....then ride home...fine! I dont get it....coud it be venting issues? I have read about gas tank lid vents and the one from the carb causing issues but would they causes problems like this? Only midrange? And off and on like that? Could the slide be sticking?
Thanks for any advice on this subject!!
You stated you used a #6 washer. The correct washer size is #4 for the needle. I'm assuming you have a GenII KLR. The 148 jet should be fine for a modified airbox. Recheck the slide diaphragm installation.
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post #5 of 11 Old 08-24-2011, 06:09 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the replies! She ran good this morning...all I did yesterday was check the vent lines....so maybe the diaphram finally seated...idk...she has a flat spot mid range and I'm guessing it's the size washer....I'll have to go with the size 4....what is completely odd though is that it'll start with the choke on but not run as soon as you give it ANY throttle it dies....? the air screw is back at facory setting of 1 5/8 turns....weird. Anyway she has her 600 mile check up this weekend. I'll check all my settings again. Again, thanks for the advice.........
Cheers
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post #6 of 11 Old 08-30-2011, 01:00 PM
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22 cent

#4 washers unknown in rural Idaho. Found some metric, smaller than #6 (3mm?, I forget) that seemed to work. Local car parts wouldn't charge so they were free.
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post #7 of 11 Old 09-01-2011, 06:00 AM
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Jetting

There are very few "constants" between KLRs, especially when you start rejetting. I installed a new jet kit from Dynojet (Moose Racing) and started with their basic instructions then tuned from there. At idle, after warming the engine, I ran the screw lean and rich until I found the drop in RPM both directions and settled in the middle (about 1.75 turns in my case). Then I checked the needle setting by installing a clean plug, running it and checking the plug. I also checked for engine performance on acceleration, missing at cruise usually indicates lean, bogging indicates rich. Then I checked the main jet almost the same way (but faster). When everything was done I still fussed with the gas cap vent (why it would start sticking is anyones guess, but a shot of silicone spray fixed it).

Did you drill the slide?
Regards
Mark

Mark
"My KLR belongs to God, when he wants it clean he washes it."
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post #8 of 11 Old 09-01-2011, 09:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cranky View Post
#4 washers unknown in rural Idaho. Found some metric, smaller than #6 (3mm?, I forget) that seemed to work. Local car parts wouldn't charge so they were free.

A #4 washer is sized for a standard 4-40 screw. The washer just has to fit inside the needle recess in the plastic part of the slide.

No eye has seen, no ear has heard, no mind has conceived what God has prepared for those who love him. 1 Cor 2:9
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post #9 of 11 Old 09-03-2011, 02:03 AM
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It's not the usual setup but mine runs perfect.
Running 42 (stock) low end, one washer, swiss cheesed the airbox,
cored the muffler, 160 main, and the metal tab preventing full
opening of the throttle bent outta the way with a new stop installed
a little further up. (a tab on the throttle mounting screw keeps it from
bogging down) 50 mpg when I'm light on the twist grip.

The pink emulsion line has a splitter and one end of each goes to the front
of the fairing, the other under the seat. Both high up. Those need a breeze
to prevent the farting you mention. I fought with that for quite a few
miles before figgering out the carb was fine but not venting n' mixing well.

Pulls like an ox but smells better,
Cheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeaap

This is my son, with whom I am well pleased." ----God
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post #10 of 11 Old 03-16-2013, 04:42 PM
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I installed the moose jet kit after an air box opening up, a 680 bore and a FMF quiet core. The bike runs ok but the range has diminished from close to 300 miles to near 200 miles. I initially put a 155 main but dropped down to a 150 to get some mileage back---not much better. I just got back from a trip and each time I filled up I took at least a gallon more than a stock KLR riding the same speed!!! Now the dang thing is back firing at each shift! I'm tempted to reinstall the dang charcoal octopus and jet it stock--AAARRRGGG!!
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