carbirrationalities - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

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post #1 of 11 Old 10-23-2011, 12:12 PM Thread Starter
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carbirrationalities

Biffy Bullfrog is an 07 with about 35k on the clock. I've had her two years, since about 12k. Last week, on the first cool morning of the season, she decided she didn't want to run without her choke full on. Her temp needle would hardly come up off the peg. Halfway through her 7.5 gallon IMS tank of gas. New Champion plug a week before. Ran strong with choke on, ran strong if I thumbed the choke off under way, but would die at idle without. Voltmeter reports plenty of juice. Running strong making good mileage up until that one morning.

Friday, I cleaned the carb. Again. This would be the sixth time I have cleaned the carb -- more than all other bikes I have owned in fifty years riding all put together, not counting long parked project bikes. I tried a yellow plastic cone VW fuel filter once upon a time, but it cracked and started to leak, so I had removed it. Very cramped and twisty route from petcock to carb underneath that oversized IMS tank, so this time I pointed the carb nipple straight down and made a simple generous U of new fuel line -- petcock right into filter, then the big U, then the carb. Didn't find any dirt in the bowl or in the jets. Always found crap before. Float valve appears to hold pressure. Jets appear clean. Diaphragm intact. I should alert you that the plastic fitting holding the choke plunger into the carb is busted on one side -- but it's been that way ever since about the fourth carb cleaning. The guy who thought up plastic nuts is nuts. No damp in the petcock vacuum tube, but that tube was looking old and stiff, so I replaced it.

Today, took her for a short test ride. Much better, but still an unsteady idle, reluctant to heat up to operating temp. One moment, idles at 1000; next moment steadies at 1300; next moment dips to where I reach anxiously for the throttle. Left her set in the driveway idling until she finally heated up. Halfway up the dial, she steadied down. Fan came on after I turned her off.

Seems to me she has some odd carby problem waiting to recur. Going to yank the carb again this afternoon. In the past, when I cleaned the carb, I might ?have to yank it off two or three times before everything got cleaned right. I'll check the new plug while I'm at it. Any other advice what to look for?

Unmitigated risk aversion is the new Puritanism; complete with witch hunts, funny outfits, and humorless preachers thundering doom. The name of the Deity is changed to Safety; the name of Satan is changed to Lawyer; but the object is the same: to suck the life out of life and tell you how to live it.
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post #2 of 11 Old 10-23-2011, 03:14 PM
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idle

Never run a champion plug in a motorcycle and your pilot jet is plugged or there is something in the slow speed circuit or the mixure srew is not right
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post #3 of 11 Old 10-23-2011, 03:19 PM
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I would agree on the sparkplug choice. I would evaluate how you store the bike (do you use seafoam when you winterize) and where you buy gas. Also, I'd look at the condition of your gas tank and lines. You may want to add some fuel system cleaner and see if it reduces your problems.

Mark
"My KLR belongs to God, when he wants it clean he washes it."
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post #4 of 11 Old 10-23-2011, 03:51 PM Thread Starter
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winterize? get real.

Winterized? Seafoam? Stored? You gotta be kiddin me. Here in Dull-Aware it rarely gets below five degrees, therefore, there is no need to winterize a bike. Snow is a fun ride. Ice only lasts a few days.

On the other hand, bad gas is not unusual here. Doesn't much matter where you go. All gas stations in this peanut state are required to dispense corn squeezins, without exception. Water and dirt have been a prob ever since they started that ridiculous horse pucky.

I pulled the plug just now. It is sooty. I didn't choose Champion... it's just what they had. I'll go fetch something better from somewhere else and see if that does the trick.


Unmitigated risk aversion is the new Puritanism; complete with witch hunts, funny outfits, and humorless preachers thundering doom. The name of the Deity is changed to Safety; the name of Satan is changed to Lawyer; but the object is the same: to suck the life out of life and tell you how to live it.
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post #5 of 11 Old 10-23-2011, 04:11 PM
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I hate Champion sparkplugs!
I would replace the broken cap nut on the choke cable. That is likely the source of your inconsistant idle.
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post #6 of 11 Old 10-23-2011, 04:34 PM
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Any chance of a vacuum leak between carb and head?

What's with all of the Champion haters? Never saw a bad one. One of the products that my company sells uses Champions exclusively and in the 14+ years I've worked there with yearly sales over 80,000 units, not one Champion related failure.

Personally, I use exactly what the manufacturer recommends.

09 KLR650
01 Jeep XJ w/ 200,000 miles as of 3-26-11
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post #7 of 11 Old 10-23-2011, 05:07 PM Thread Starter
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will see

Okay, replaced the sooted champ with a new NGK. Will see whether that fixes the deal.

During a long string of Hondas, reaching back many years, I frequently used champions with no probs at all. I suspect there's some reason it sooted up other than they suck.

I'll find a choke nut. I wonder, is there a non-plastic re-placement available anywheres?

Unmitigated risk aversion is the new Puritanism; complete with witch hunts, funny outfits, and humorless preachers thundering doom. The name of the Deity is changed to Safety; the name of Satan is changed to Lawyer; but the object is the same: to suck the life out of life and tell you how to live it.
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post #8 of 11 Old 10-23-2011, 05:40 PM Thread Starter
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Terrific

I googled up a metal replacement nut at Steadman Engineering. Placed an order. Glad to get rid of that crappy plastic bullroar. I tell you, the innernet is a fabulous thing when you know what you want but don't know where to find it. Porn is not the only thing that works.e

Unmitigated risk aversion is the new Puritanism; complete with witch hunts, funny outfits, and humorless preachers thundering doom. The name of the Deity is changed to Safety; the name of Satan is changed to Lawyer; but the object is the same: to suck the life out of life and tell you how to live it.
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post #9 of 11 Old 10-23-2011, 06:48 PM
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N-G-K...all the way! (need cheerleader emoticon)




"In a car you're always in a compartment, and because you're used to it you don't realize that through that car window everything you see is just more TV." R. Pirsig

PPMC #1.
Soon, we ride.

AKA JD Mader or you can call me "Dan" just not early for dinner.

Click my handle for a link to my homepage/blog...which has nothing to do with MCs. Free literature and music! Viva La Revolucion!
-------------------
2008 KLR 650
RIP DM - Soon, we ride.
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post #10 of 11 Old 10-23-2011, 07:40 PM
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From symptoms, maybe the idle circuit is honked up.

In my recent experience, the ethanol-laced gasoline is bad news.

My KLR300 ATV, with CVK 32 carburetor, clogs its pilot jet after a very short time of non-use. I'm trying Star-Tron, and--a practice of shutting off the petcock and running her dry after operation . . . a better approach would be to drain the float bowl.

Your fuel screw orifices could be crudded-up; might want to check out that possibility, and set the fuel screw out to 1.75 turns, more or less.

Around 1200 rpm, only the idle circuit should be active; the needle/needle jet and main jet aren't involved in low-rpm, low air butterfly opening operation.

And finally . . . have a busted choke cap also . . . while a metal Steadman cap's a good idea, may hack along with mine or get a new Kawi plastic jewel, but . . . I'm SERIOUSLY considering installing a straight-pull choke cable . . . in fact, I bought one at an independent chopper shop (after seeing how simple the choke cables are routed on the CV40's on the Harley Hogs) . . . my plan, drill the plastic kickstand swtich cover, thread the Drag Specialties cable through the hole; disconnect the OEM cable and attach the new one straight into the carb.

Installation images when I'm done. (The salesman said the cable tension is adjustable, insuring the choke stays ON when the knob is pulled.)

Meanwhile, here's my Drag Specialties choke cable (cost about $ 12, IIRC):





One advantage I expect from the new, short cable, is: Easier connecting/disconnecting of the cable cap to the carb, as it is now a "straight shot," rather than following a 90-degree elbow bend. Also, I'd expect the choke to be most responsive and unambiguous, compared to the long OEM cable routed to the handlebars . . .

Last edited by LoneRider; 10-23-2011 at 08:05 PM.
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