From symptoms, maybe the idle circuit is honked up.
In my recent experience, the ethanol-laced gasoline is bad news.
My KLR300 ATV, with CVK 32 carburetor, clogs its pilot jet after a very short time of non-use. I'm trying Star-Tron, and--a practice of shutting off the petcock and running her dry after operation . . . a better approach would be to drain the float bowl.
Your fuel screw orifices could be crudded-up; might want to check out that possibility, and set the fuel screw out to 1.75 turns, more or less.
Around 1200 rpm, only the idle circuit should be active; the needle/needle jet and main jet aren't involved in low-rpm, low air butterfly opening operation.
And finally . . . have a busted choke cap also . . . while a metal Steadman cap's a good idea, may hack along with mine or get a new Kawi plastic jewel, but . . . I'm SERIOUSLY considering installing a straight-pull choke cable . . . in fact, I bought one at an independent chopper shop (after seeing how simple the choke cables are routed on the CV40's on the Harley Hogs) . . . my plan, drill the plastic kickstand swtich cover, thread the Drag Specialties cable through the hole; disconnect the OEM cable and attach the new one straight into the carb.
Installation images when I'm done. (The salesman said the cable tension is adjustable, insuring the choke stays ON when the knob is pulled.)
Meanwhile, here's my Drag Specialties choke cable (cost about $ 12, IIRC):
One advantage I expect from the new, short cable, is: Easier connecting/disconnecting of the cable cap to the carb, as it is now a "straight shot," rather than following a 90-degree elbow bend. Also, I'd expect the choke to be most responsive and unambiguous, compared to the long OEM cable routed to the handlebars . . .