2009 Electrical issues - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
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post #1 of 7 Old 11-02-2011, 08:40 AM Thread Starter
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2009 Electrical issues

Since having this bike, I have been plagued by electrical gremlins (its an 09 so this is no surprise). Anyway, last night riding home just made me to finally seek a fix.
After killing the battery running my Gerbings jacket, I went and installed one of those LED charging gauges to make sure the battery is getting fed. So that has been on for some time. For those that don't have one, it has red,yellow and green LEDs to show level of charging. I keep at least one green LED lit when I ride since that is showing the battery is getting a good charge. That is the background info.
On my beer ride out west, there were times when the LED gauge just went crazy and made it look like the battery wasn't charging, then it was, then it went back to normal. It did this every so often. I just figured it was a loose cable and tightened everything once I got home. Well last night I was riding home. It was chilly so I had my Symtec heated grips on (set on hi) and my Gerbings jacket (it was set fairly low, the LED on the control was flashing). Everything was going ok. After a bit I got to a point where I could and needed to use my high beam. I put that on and the charging gauge started flashing the one green LED making it appear that the bike was no longer charging. The headlight also started pulsating even though I don't have a headlight modulator. It was minor, but still noticeable. At one point I turned off the high beam and turned on the bright LED spot lights I have. I noticed that the illuminated on/off switch started pulsing as well. It never turned off, just dimmed a bit and went back to bright constantly.
Anyhow this bugs the crap out of me. I thought the new model had enough juice to handle all of this. Is there something wrong that I should be looking for?? I have all LED bulbs except for the headlights and the license plate light (I had one in there, but the lens broke with the LED bulb that I had in there so I switched back to stock incandescent)

Erik
2003 Bandit 1200S
2009 KLR 650

74 Honda CB360
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post #2 of 7 Old 11-02-2011, 09:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteelB12 View Post
Since having this bike, I have been plagued by electrical gremlins (its an 09 so this is no surprise). Anyway, last night riding home just made me to finally seek a fix.
After killing the battery running my Gerbings jacket, I went and installed one of those LED charging gauges to make sure the battery is getting fed. So that has been on for some time. For those that don't have one, it has red,yellow and green LEDs to show level of charging. I keep at least one green LED lit when I ride since that is showing the battery is getting a good charge. That is the background info.
On my beer ride out west, there were times when the LED gauge just went crazy and made it look like the battery wasn't charging, then it was, then it went back to normal. It did this every so often. I just figured it was a loose cable and tightened everything once I got home. Well last night I was riding home. It was chilly so I had my Symtec heated grips on (set on hi) and my Gerbings jacket (it was set fairly low, the LED on the control was flashing). Everything was going ok. After a bit I got to a point where I could and needed to use my high beam. I put that on and the charging gauge started flashing the one green LED making it appear that the bike was no longer charging. The headlight also started pulsating even though I don't have a headlight modulator. It was minor, but still noticeable. At one point I turned off the high beam and turned on the bright LED spot lights I have. I noticed that the illuminated on/off switch started pulsing as well. It never turned off, just dimmed a bit and went back to bright constantly.
Anyhow this bugs the crap out of me. I thought the new model had enough juice to handle all of this. Is there something wrong that I should be looking for?? I have all LED bulbs except for the headlights and the license plate light (I had one in there, but the lens broke with the LED bulb that I had in there so I switched back to stock incandescent)

The Gen 2s have about 100 watts available without the high beam on. Yours a bit more with the LED replacements. Figure the grip heaters are about 30 watts on high and the jacket probably 75 watts.

I have a Warm and Safe electric liner and have noticed the headlight pulsing. The controller cycles the power to the liner. On low it sends full power 25% of the cycle (approx. don't really know) So it cycles every second or two and you see a momentary dip in voltage in the electrical system hence the pulsing in the lights.

I can't run my grip heaters and liner with the high beam, my voltage monitor will trip. So I'll flip the heaters off if I really need to see!

No eye has seen, no ear has heard, no mind has conceived what God has prepared for those who love him. 1 Cor 2:9
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post #3 of 7 Old 11-02-2011, 09:44 AM Thread Starter
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So basically this is a normal condition?? Nothing to worry about or can really improve upon?

Erik
2003 Bandit 1200S
2009 KLR 650

74 Honda CB360
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post #4 of 7 Old 11-02-2011, 09:52 AM
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Not an expert, but the symptoms remind me of the behavior you get when the system is at idle (no charge) and you blip the throttle and things brighten up (charge). Maybe with all the gear on you are on that border and the charging system is cycling.
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post #5 of 7 Old 11-02-2011, 03:03 PM
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+ what spec said...

You cannot run a Gerbing jacket and 30 watt draw grip heaters or gloves on a standard +08 KLR with low & high beam on.(The Gerbing vest draws about 50 watts, so it may be a better choice for power conservation on a KLR)

I would suggest you add a LPC-x-W2 License Plate Light, LED type from Super Bright LEDs, Inc. ( superbrightleds.com) the cost is $5.95. This light draws 50 mA, or 5/8 Watt at 12.5 Vdc. The standard Lic. lite on the KLR is 4.5 Watts. By the way, this lite will fit the stock KLR lic. bracket after removing the lens and R5W socket assembly, you can splice in the LED light, the bolt pattern is the same as stock. Be sure to observe polarity, after all, these are LED's. The old bulb center contact is positive and it's wire connects to the red on the new LED light.

The way the power controller for heated products work is by cycling on and off the heating circuit. Either it is full on drawing (75 W + 30 W) / 12.5 V = 8.4 A current, or 0 A current. For standard filament or halogen bulbs, they will see a voltage reduction at their terminals due to the voltage drop caused by the wiring resistance. You see that as a pulsing when the control is switching on and off. (when the control is fully on, no cycling, you should not see any pulsing....)

HID lights with their internal power supply will keep the brightness constant at the lights, even when the supply voltage input changes (the input current goes up when the supply voltage decreases, no free lunch here.) If you do use HID or want to use the high brightness Sylvania bulbs, to get the best results you must wire from the battery a 12 gauge hot and ground direct to the lights via two control relays, one for high, one for low beam. The KLR wiring and handle bar switches are fine for the masses, but drop too much voltage for the aficionado.

Keep in mind that at colder temps, the internal resistance of the battery increases, and any current drawn will cause more voltage drop than a hot summers day. (the ability of the battery to store charge is reduced...)

The total power output of the KLR +08 models is about 220 W, but this power is available only at high RPM's (I don't know the exact specifics, but I would assume from the manual test conditions it is 4,000 or more RPM)

Under 4000 RPM, the power available decreases.


One strategy you may consider, for daytime riding, is to install a switch to turn off your low beam, and turn on a 10 W LED spotlight for daytime running. Then it is possible to be safe, run you Gerbing jacket and heated grips at full power all day.

One last point.. if you do have a cycling type heater control ( a must have item on the KLR in my opinion), this will play hob with any type of current or watt meter, or any voltage meter. In this case, your only option is to either turn the heaters fully off and take a reading, or turn them fully on (no cycling) and take a reading.....
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post #6 of 7 Old 11-03-2011, 12:01 AM Thread Starter
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I will look into that LED license plate light. I had a LED bulb in there from Superbright, but it cracked the plastic lens because it was too big, so that's why I put the stocker back in. I wish there was a LED low beam bulb I could use to replace the incandescent bulb. Since that is always on, that would save a lot of power. I can't go rewiring the headlights, I will just muck it up. You should see how my wiring is for the LED flood lights.


Here's a weird one. When I went to start the bike about an hour ago, I turned the key and "POP", everything went dead. Since everything was out, it must be the main fuse. No biggie since I carry several spares now. I pulled the fuse out and it was fine. I replaced it and the bike started up just fine and I made it home. What is up wit dat??

Erik
2003 Bandit 1200S
2009 KLR 650

74 Honda CB360
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post #7 of 7 Old 11-03-2011, 02:35 AM
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Sounds like a loose connection at the battery terminals. Check and make sure they are clean and tight.
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