Valve Adj. video comment
The video is spot on. I'm just going to add:
Clean the engine and top end before working on it. The cam bearing to cam shaft fit is very close and demands absolutely no contamination.
There are two dowels in every cam cap assembly, either cam cap or engine cam journal side will hold the dowels, account for them and be aware of them as you are removing the cam caps, gently rock the cam caps off the camshaft, work front to back to front, try to ensure that the caps come straight up. Never never never pry the mating (engine cam journal/cam cap mating surfaces). Raising a burr here will make it impossible to get a proper measurement.
If would be a good idea to have assembly lube handy and use this on the cam journals and lobes, otherwise clean oil will do on re-assembly.
To take the top valve cover off, the fan needs to come off, use wire, string, or ty-wrap to secure the fan out of the way, this is to prevent damage to the radiator when the fan assembly falls on it. Note the radiator is ridiculously easy to screw up and it's $630 dollars to replace.
You need to use Yamabond or Hondabond hitemp silicone gasket goo ever so lightly around the left side of the rubber valve cover gasket, esp. the half round sections. (did I say light application? there, I said it again, a little goes a long way, make sure you clean everything with clean solvent
The valve cover screws (two of which thread into a cam cap) are actually shoulder screws, the thickness of the rubber gasket and the machining determine how tight the seal is. These bolts can easily be stripped out of the head/cam cap so pay attention to the manual torque values. You can re-use the rubber valve cover gasket.
Always rotate the engine counter clockwise as stated in the video. The T mark can be in the hole and the cam lobes in (wrong set up), just go around again and the next time the T mark arrives the lobes will be out. (correct)
After you torque the cam caps, rotate the engine several times to get things settled/ oil film set then reset the T mark as above and make your final clearance checks. Try to keep the clearance to the middle to sloppy end of the clearance.
You must record the values in your cam sheet and save it for reference the next time, this info will give you a clue as to what size shim to have on hand in the future. Don't forget that you may be able to simply swap you existing shims around to get your clearance set up. The shim numbers go toward the valve bucket, not because it won't work, but the numbers will be wiped off if you can see them, then the next poor sob will need to mike each shim to know it's size.
By the way, the shims just lay in the bucket, but the oil between the shim and bucket act like glue. And yes, the buckets should all turn in place if all is good. You can rotate the buckets to get the slot in a good position for you to pry the shim from the bucket. I will assume you followed the video and have clean rags in the cam chain galley, if you don't, you will suffer badly.
Finally, I print out two cam sheets, one while I'm working, and it gets very dirty, then the final one I make later, transcribing the info carefully for the keeper copy.