Need Frugal Exhaust Mod/Parts Advice - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

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post #1 of 33 Old 12-08-2011, 12:10 AM Thread Starter
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Need Frugal Exhaust Mod/Parts Advice

Can anybody steer me toward a source for an exhaust "deflector" or whatever you call it to install on the back end of my muffler to make it look better and direct the heat out after I do the Frugal Exhaust Mod? Looking for something cheap, of course. I had some leads on them but lost them and really don't know what the things are actually called or where to start looking.

Also:

1. Does anybody know if it's a good or bad idea to use a hammer drill with a hole saw? I have a 1/2" hammer drill that seems like it would work well but I may be wrong about that.

2. I have a cheap hole saw kit I bought to make birdhouses or some other crap my wife wanted me to make. Will it work to cut through the metal of the muffler (if I don't mind destroying the saw in the process) or do I need to buy some kind of expensive, metal-cutting hole saw? I've cut holes in some thin aluminum sheets with the ones I have and they did okay.

Any advice would be appreciated.



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post #2 of 33 Old 12-08-2011, 07:18 AM
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Originally Posted by planalp View Post
1. Does anybody know if it's a good or bad idea to use a hammer drill with a hole saw? I have a 1/2" hammer drill that seems like it would work well but I may be wrong about that.
Can you turn of the hammer? The hammer function isn't going to help much, if anything it is going to hurt. It works great concrete and masonry, not so much on steel.

Quote:
2. I have a cheap hole saw kit I bought to make birdhouses or some other crap my wife wanted me to make. Will it work to cut through the metal of the muffler (if I don't mind destroying the saw in the process) or do I need to buy some kind of expensive, metal-cutting hole saw?
From what I have read, it is some seriously tough metal that the actual silencer is made from. If the hole saw isn't designed for metal, I think you'll just find yourself frustrated, and an muffler with some missing paint.
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post #3 of 33 Old 12-08-2011, 10:17 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by thetable View Post
Can you turn of the hammer? The hammer function isn't going to help much, if anything it is going to hurt. It works great concrete and masonry, not so much on steel.


From what I have read, it is some seriously tough metal that the actual silencer is made from. If the hole saw isn't designed for metal, I think you'll just find yourself frustrated, and an muffler with some missing paint.
I dug around in my neatly-organized shop ("Everything in its place and everything all over the place") and found a combination wood/metal hole saw set that I forgot I had picked up.

I remember they were for wood/metal, but as for application specifications beyond that, all I can say is that they're "white."

Problem is, biggest one is only a 2" and the mod calls for a 2-1/8" bit. Can I get by with the 2" and maybe some filing/finagling or is that going to get me into trouble?

I can turn off the hammer feature on the drill.



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post #4 of 33 Old 12-08-2011, 10:42 AM
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You need the 2-1/8" diameter to get around the "innards" of the silencer.

Photos here of when mine was done....
http://s576.photobucket.com/albums/s...Muffler%20Mod/

You also need the guide pictured to keep the drill and holesaw itself centered while you are cutting it out. I sent it along to someone here on the forum. Maybe if they see this post they will send it along to you as well. If not it is just a piece of metal barstock with a 1/4" hole drilled through the center and the OD turned to fit tightly in the existing muffler.

As I remember it I went through two holesaws to get it out. Use a variable speed drill motor slow RPM with all the pressure you can put on it and some metal cutting fluid. High RPM will burn it up in a hurry.

Gray-haired riders donít get that way from pure luck.

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post #5 of 33 Old 12-08-2011, 11:15 AM Thread Starter
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Hey flash, looks like yours turned out good. I was hoping I could just hammer a dowel tightly into the exhaust hole and use it to guide the saw. As you noted, I figured there was a good reason the job called for a 2-1/8" saw and I thought perhaps it was due to the internal structure of the muffler.

I think this mod is quickly starting to slide over into the "not worth the trouble" column, at least for me: not knocking it for anybody else that's done it.

If I were to continue on, it seems like it would be cheaper and easier to just take the muffler off and take it to a welding shop 3 blocks down the street and have them cut out the end with a torch or plasma cutter in about a minute for five bucks or a six-pack of beer.




Last edited by planalp; 12-08-2011 at 11:17 AM.
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post #6 of 33 Old 12-08-2011, 11:31 AM
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I hear ya'. A bit more to it than it seems. I know some have done it with a wooden dowell and that may be fine to start it but I cant see it aligning the hole saw much more than that. Then once you get the old silencer out you have to precisely align to drill and tap for the downturn tip or whatever you are going to use to hold the spark arrestor in place.

It is doable but I can see it going horribly wrong. For me it was easy, but then I work as a machinist in a shop and have access to all the right tools and materials for the job.
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post #7 of 33 Old 12-08-2011, 11:46 AM Thread Starter
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It was considered mostly as just a "for the hell of it and something to do over the Winter" mod and I suppose that's not a good reason to do it. As you wisely pointed out, probably a breeze for you with your knowledge, tools and materials.

I wasn't doing it for the sound since I couldn't care less what my KLR sounds like, but some have noted that it's a good mod to do in conjunction with the .22 mod.

I don't exactly push the limits of the KLR, so doubt I would even notice any difference.

I think I'll follow the "Motocratic Oath:" - "First, do no harm" and just leave it alone.



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post #8 of 33 Old 12-08-2011, 12:32 PM
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As an alternative to the metal centering drill guide you can use a hole saw the same size as the inner tube and cut a guide out of wood. Slip it onto the drill bit and then the drill out hole saw. The wood plug can then be put inside the inner pipe. This will align your hole saw and is a lot less hassle to make and cheaper. In the True KLR Riders Creed!

I hope that makes sense!

I'd show you some pictures of mine but I'm still trying to get my 100 post in before they will let me post pictures.


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post #9 of 33 Old 12-08-2011, 08:21 PM
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I just did mine last week. It was more work than I expected, but like you I didn't really have the right tools to do the job. Started out with a hole saw I had laying around. It must have been for wood because it didn't last too long.

Instead of going to the store for another, I used a 1/8" drill bit and drilled a whole lot of holes all the way around, and followed that up with a small cold chisel. The space between holes was about a 1/16" and broke quite easily. I think if I was to do this again I would use the drill bit and chisel from the start. It leaves a pretty ragged hole, but it gets covered up any way.

So that I didn't have to be real precise with drilling holes, or tapping the holes, to attach the exhaust tip, I drilled larger than needed and used those clip on nuts, like for body work on cars.

I can't remember where I got my exhaust tip now...it was last week you know, and I'm almost 52, but I got my stainless steel screen in the plumbing section of the local home improvement warehouse store. A little black RTV goop on the end cap keeps any gaps filled upon attachment.

Whew... that was a lot of huntin' and peckin' just to say... IT WAS WORTH IT!!!!
It's just barely louder, I didn't really want louder, but it has authority now. It sounds like a motorcycle. It reminds me of riding my bicycle as a kid with a baseball card clothes-pinned in the spokes. It makes me smile.

I don't notice if it makes any difference in performance, but I like it! Go for it!!
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post #10 of 33 Old 12-08-2011, 09:11 PM
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Do the mod, it's a piece a cake. I didn't know what I was doing either and I bet I was done with the hole in 1 hour. Just buy a freakin wood dowel, take a dremel sanding wheel to put an angle on it, hammer it in, measure and put a dot in the center, and start drilling. My bud let me borrow a "white" 2 1/8" that he used on his, so it made it thru 2 KLR's.
The key is to go slow and use lots of oil. Throw a blanket over your rear wheel.
IF you do it LMK and I'll LYK the billet tip I installed. I just drilled and tapped the holes. I'd never done that before either and I succeeded! Feels good.




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Last edited by Savage; 12-08-2011 at 09:26 PM.
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