Wiring Lights In A Series - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
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post #1 of 5 Old 01-13-2012, 11:21 AM Thread Starter
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Wiring Lights In A Series

Once again, pardon my ignorance of electrical theory and systems.......

Since the ones I'm using are only 35 watts, I'm going to add another light to my home-brew backup lighting system. I've got the KLR torn down and need to re-wire because my initial wire routing to the fairing-mounted switch slightly impedes access to my radiator cap. Now would be the most opportune time to get this done.

Will the route described below (a series, I believe), work?

Hot wire from the battery, through a fuse, to the hot wire on the right light, then a wire from the ground on the right light to the hot wire on the left light, ground wire then up to the switch, then straight back to the battery?

If it's possible to wire the lights in a series with one switch, will they lights be less bright than if I had dedicated hot and ground wires going to each light individually?

Goal is to get two lights activated by one switch.

Any advice would be appreciated.



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post #2 of 5 Old 01-13-2012, 12:34 PM
RLF
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You don't want to wire them in series, your light out put would be cut in half.
Not taking the load and the output of the alt. into it....
To wire with one switch you would come off the batt + side, then a fuse, then to a switch, then tap the wire into two wires one going to each light, take the ground side wire of the lights and bond it to ground (frame of the bike) most of the time you can ground it where you bolt the light to the fare or crash bars.
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post #3 of 5 Old 01-13-2012, 12:52 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RLF View Post
You don't want to wire them in series, your light out put would be cut in half.
That's what I was afraid would happen.

So I could just split the one hot wire coming out of the switch into two wires, with each going to an individual light? When I first wired this up, I just had the ground wire going all the way back to my battery. I've got the lights mounted on my nerf bars but don't see why they wouldn't suffice as grounds right at the attachment point since they're bolted, metal-to-metal, directly to the frame. I probably should have done that in the first place as that would get rid of excess and really unnecessary wiring running back to the battery - post.




Last edited by planalp; 01-13-2012 at 12:59 PM.
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post #4 of 5 Old 01-13-2012, 03:13 PM
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If you are wiring them in parallel through the same switch, just make sure that your wires and switch are all able to handle enough juice. If each light is 35 W, you are drawing 6 amps at normal output. Your initial power throw could be upwards of a 10A draw.

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post #5 of 5 Old 01-14-2012, 08:44 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kmbsar View Post
If you are wiring them in parallel through the same switch, just make sure that your wires and switch are all able to handle enough juice. If each light is 35 W, you are drawing 6 amps at normal output. Your initial power throw could be upwards of a 10A draw.
I've got a 20-amp rated switch but I'll have to upgrade my fuse. I can't remember what wire I used for the single light, but I think it was 12 gauge.



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