New stuff...... - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

 
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post #1 of 5 Old 03-01-2012, 05:41 PM Thread Starter
1st Gear
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Iowa
Posts: 20
New stuff......

Well, I figure I might as well start trying to get to my 15 post newbie entry level requirement so I can get some pictures posted in the near future. Hunting season here in Iowa is over and I've already done my fair share of looking for sheds, so over the past month I've invested a fair amount of time and fun money on my KLR. I've been acting like a crack addict on this site and any other related merchandise site.........I come on here and get the info from the veterans, and then surf the different sites til' I'm blue in the face trying to find the best price. In the last month I've ordered the following:

HT nerf bar package w/skid plate and pegs
Front and rear Anakee 2 tires and tubes
Dakar windscreen
Set of 1550 pelican cases
Rear trunk from JCW
12V accessory plug
Wolfman Enduro tank bag
Rear spring from TopGun
Sargent seat

I've fabbed up a aluminum tool canister for the skid plate and a rear rack for the pelican cases and dropped it off to get powder coated. ( 14 bucks in steel, and 50 for the powder coat...jeesh ) I've also done the .22 cents mod ( mine cost me .44 cents thanks to Ace Hardware), and the airbox mod.

Now, I havent kept a tally on what everything cost, and I don't really care to find out, but I can tell you that I'm having a-lot of fun with it and learning a-lot about my bike. Everything should be finished in a week or two I'm hoping. I'll get some pics up then......providing I'm up to my 15 posts.
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post #2 of 5 Old 03-01-2012, 05:57 PM
3rd Gear
 
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: L.A. Native
Posts: 517
Welcome, Looking forward to your pics.

94 KLR,tank guards,sw motech centerstand,Doo done, african switch,mirror dampners, powerpegz, twisted throttle fuses, aluminum skidplate, Bigcee shark disc and jug holder and subframe upgrade, progrip grips,maier handguards/brushguards, avon distanzias,fmf q4 exhaust, headlight guard, handlebar risers, billet rear brake reservoir bracket and guard, dual star shifter,garmin 2820 gps, tmod,disc cover, pcv mod,corbin flat
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post #3 of 5 Old 03-02-2012, 01:24 AM
OverDrive
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: NW MO
Posts: 5,348
It's been a couple of years since I put mine on, but here's a pretty decent video of some guys installing the HT Nerf bar kit. As I recall, the instructions that came with the kit were somewhat lacking, or at least kind of unclear with poor, grainy black and white photos.

Biggest thing to watch is that the two flat support pieces that overlap and attach to the frame clamp, then pass out through the holes in the fairings, are correctly routed and installed and don't interfere with the voltage regulator or any other wires or hoses. Installing the whole bars/skid plate kit is a pretty easy job that doesn't take more than a couple of hours. I recall taking my front fender off to make the job easier but these guys didn't.

When I change my oil with the HT skid plate on, I stuff paper towels between the bottom of the engine case and the skid plate all around the skid plate oil drain plug access hole before I remove the drain plug. That way, when the flow of oil slows down, it won't creep out along the bottom of the engine case and get between the skid plate and the engine where you can't reach to wipe it out.

The HT highway pegs are steel covered with a thin piece of rubber. The first time you put your feet up on them, it will feel like you're resting your feet on an operating jackhammer. That sensation goes away the more you use them. I love mine. They save my back on longer rides.

+1 on seeing some photos of your KLR when you're done with all these additions.




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post #4 of 5 Old 03-02-2012, 07:07 AM Thread Starter
1st Gear
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Iowa
Posts: 20
[quote=planalp;97513]It's been a couple of years since I put mine on, but here's a pretty decent video of some guys installing the HT Nerf bar kit. As I recall, the instructions that came with the kit were somewhat lacking, or at least kind of unclear with poor, grainy black and white photos.

Biggest thing to watch is that the two flat support pieces that overlap and attach to the frame clamp, then pass out through the holes in the fairings, are correctly routed and installed and don't interfere with the voltage regulator or any other wires or hoses. Installing the whole bars/skid plate kit is a pretty easy job that doesn't take more than a couple of hours. I recall taking my front fender off to make the job easier but these guys didn't.

When I change my oil with the HT skid plate on, I stuff paper towels between the bottom of the engine case and the skid plate all around the skid plate oil drain plug access hole before I remove the drain plug. That way, when the flow of oil slows down, it won't creep out along the bottom of the engine case and get between the skid plate and the engine where you can't reach to wipe it out.

The HT highway pegs are steel covered with a thin piece of rubber. The first time you put your feet up on them, it will feel like you're resting your feet on an operating jackhammer. That sensation goes away the more you use them. I love mine. They save my back on longer rides.

+1 on seeing some photos of your KLR when you're done with all these additions.

[quote]

I actually finished putting the set on a few days ago. It was pretty much as you describe. I think it took me around two hours.......the directions were ok, but not great. I'm glad it had the close-up pic of the voltage regulator or I probably would have placed the support on the wrong side of the wiring harness. The hardest part for me was getting the two frame bolts fed through both sides of the clamp and then into the two supports......for some reason I had a heck of a time getting the threads started.
I noticed the tolerance between the front supports and the plastic is very close.......so close in fact that I can barely slide a sheet of paper between the metal and the plastic on the right side. I'm a little concerned this could become an issue when rolling down the road. I thought about giving it a nudge with my boot, but the left side is sitting pretty close to the plastic itself??? Time will tell I guess.....
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post #5 of 5 Old 03-02-2012, 10:59 AM
OverDrive
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: NW MO
Posts: 5,348
[quote=KLR Iowa;97517][quote=planalp;97513]
Quote:

I actually finished putting the set on a few days ago. It was pretty much as you describe. I think it took me around two hours.......the directions were ok, but not great. I'm glad it had the close-up pic of the voltage regulator or I probably would have placed the support on the wrong side of the wiring harness. The hardest part for me was getting the two frame bolts fed through both sides of the clamp and then into the two supports......for some reason I had a heck of a time getting the threads started.
I noticed the tolerance between the front supports and the plastic is very close.......so close in fact that I can barely slide a sheet of paper between the metal and the plastic on the right side. I'm a little concerned this could become an issue when rolling down the road. I thought about giving it a nudge with my boot, but the left side is sitting pretty close to the plastic itself??? Time will tell I guess.....
Good deal. Glad to hear you got them on. You almost need three hands to get that clamp positioned and the threads started. That was the hardest part of the install for me.

I had the same issue with the supports being close to the fairing. After I got everything installed and tightened, I went back and loosed up all the nuts and bolts and just kind of yanked stuff around until I got a little more clearance between the supports and the plastic. That gained me about 1/4" clearance on both sides and things have stayed the same.

But, when I did that, I found the little flat "flanges" where other pieces bolted together were off and there's a crooked gap between them that kind of bugged me at first.

I've logged quite a few miles since I put the bars on and have had the bike fall over on its side onto a hard surface on the left. After that happened, nothing had moved and I still had the same metal/plastic clearance.

I think if you're able to finagle the bars and supports to where you have more clearance, things will stay that way.



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