Valve Clearance Adjustment, When? - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

 7Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 44 Old 06-12-2012, 07:36 PM Thread Starter
2nd Gear
 
wrenrj1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Nebraska
Posts: 186
Valve Clearance Adjustment, When?

I have a 2012 kLR that has reached 600 miles. When I bought it new the salesperson pushed the maintenance agreement and justified it by telling me the first two services almost pay for it. According to him, Kawasaki now recommends the first oil change at 200 mi. and then at 600 mi.

The 200 mi. service totaled $456.00 and indicated 3 hrs. of labor, not cheap but I had the service agreement. The salesperson also indicated the Kawasaki now required that valve clearance be checked at 600 mi. As that's pretty in depth it also helped sell me on the MA. Today I go in to get the work done and the cost is $32.50, basically an oil/filter change and basic checks. That's what the manual says, and the service people couldn't find anything otherwise.

I confronted the salesperson about this and he stated that the sales manager gets this info. and passes it down to the sales force (sounds fishy) I asked him to have that person call/email me with any direction that Kawasaki has given regarding checking the valve clearance on KLR's at 600 mi. Since I had the MA, the service dept. person basically said "You're a VIP with the MA, if you want us to do it we will." I do appreciate that.

Long story short, should the valve clearance be checked at 600 miles? The owners manual says 15k or two years. What say you?
wrenrj1 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 44 Old 06-12-2012, 07:59 PM
2nd Gear
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 103
I would check it right now... That does not mean taking it to Kawi to have them do it as they will not. I would do the work myself as I have personally seen a bike with your mileage with tight exaust valves. I would NEVER trust a dealer to work on my bike. You need to find a T-day and have someone walk you through this simple task.
BUGKLR is offline  
post #3 of 44 Old 06-13-2012, 12:35 AM
OverDrive
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: NW MO
Posts: 5,327
There are a lot of guys on here with more experience with valves, but this is mine:

My manual called for checking the valves at 15K. After joining this forum I determined,, based on what others said, that 15K was way too long to wait. I checked mine at about 6,000 miles. I believe one exhaust valve was completely out of spec (tight), the other exhaust valve was at the lower limit and both intake valves were more than halfway to the "tight" side. I'm too lazy to go get my work sheet right now.

I'd noticed one of the symptoms of the bike taking longer/being harder to start. So, at 6,000 miles, they were obviously due a check.

I don't know about the 600-mile interval. I was going to say it seemed unnecessary, but just noted BUGKLR posted that he's seen a KLR at those miles with tight valves.

I don't know if Kawasaki will do it now under your maintenance agreement or not, but if you plan on keeping your KLR for a long time and that agreement runs out, you'll have to do it again yourself or pay them to do it.

Trust me, if I can do it, anybody can. It's a simple task. Paying somebody to do it is a waste of money and it's actually very satisfying to do it yourself. When I had questions about shim dimensions, where to get them, cam chain/timing issues, I popped on here and had my answers in no time. I used a Clymer manual and overall it was sufficient, but didn't address a couple of things I needed to know during reassembly. The only special tools you need are a feeler gauge and a couple of torque wrenches as far as I can recall. The biggest PITA is getting the fairings off and back on.




Last edited by planalp; 06-13-2012 at 09:37 AM.
planalp is offline  
 
post #4 of 44 Old 06-13-2012, 01:36 AM
2nd Gear
 
ArcticKLR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: No. CA
Posts: 366
I had a Kawi ZZR600, salesman said to check the valves a 600m. I spoke with a friend who worked at a Kawi shop and he said all they do at the 600m check is change the oil as well as look over the bike, (not check mind you) for any blatant loose nuts or issues. I didn't plan on keeping the bike for a long time so i didn't care. Regarding my KLR, which i want to get 100K miles out of, I have 6256 miles on it and like Planalp, my manual (as well as the dealer I bought it from said they are good until 15Km). He showed me his KLR so I know he does ride one... and I do trust the dealer a bit as their mechanic is a little anal and proved it to me when i bought the bike(only the one dealer out of 5 we have around here though) but prefer to do my own work so I know what is done.

However, key point here, I do not trust the fact that the valves will be good for 15Km and plan on checking as well as adjusting if necessary, later this month when i get my SW motechs and have to pull the tank off anyhow. I planned on a few vaca days for this as i ride my bike daily. I have not had any problems with idle, start up ( unless you consider giving it gas at start up a problem) or power, and I ride a lot of high RPMs for the KLR (5000+ rpms twice daily). I do have to add oil occasionally, and actually added about a half Liter tonight after putting 500+ miles of 6000+ rpms on the bike in the last 1000m but i understand that a single, running constant high rpms may chew the oil like i chew tobacco. I will post after i check with what i found. I have a 2011 KLR (blue of course as they are the fastest) with 6256m on it, a 16t front sprocket, thermobob and EM doohickey as well as torsion spring. I am just trying to lay as much info out there as i can fr you Wren as I am seriously OCD about my bike and want to make sure you have all info available to make a proper decision that calms your OWN conscience.
ArcticKLR is offline  
post #5 of 44 Old 06-13-2012, 02:06 AM
OverDrive
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: NW MO
Posts: 5,327
I asked this same question awhile back. Maybe this thread will be of use: As noted, checking them is a very simple job. Adjusting them isn't much work either, but at least if you just measured them you'd know where you stood. Unless I'm mistaken, no messing with the timing chain or cam caps to check the clearance: basically just take off the gas tank, unbolt and move the radiator fan, unhook whatever lines/wires are attached to the cylinder head cover, pull it off, set the engine to TDC and stick a feeler gauge in there between the four shims and cam lobes to see where you stand.

http://www.klrforum.com/archive/index.php/t-11110.html




Last edited by planalp; 06-13-2012 at 09:38 AM.
planalp is offline  
post #6 of 44 Old 06-13-2012, 09:22 AM
4th Gear
 
Spec's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Gateway to Death Valley!
Posts: 1,928
Quote:
Originally Posted by ArcticKLR View Post

...

I have not had any problems with idle, start up ( unless you consider giving it gas at start up a problem) or power, and I ride a lot of high RPMs for the KLR (5000+ rpms twice daily). I do have to add oil occasionally, and actually added about a half Liter tonight after putting 500+ miles of 6000+ rpms on the bike in the last 1000m but i understand that a single, running constant high rpms may chew the oil like i chew tobacco. I will post after i check with what i found.

...

I'll bet your valves are tight. The bike should start with 2-3 turns of the starter without giving it gas when they are in spec.

Guess Kawasaki didn't fix the oil burning on the Gen 2s! No, it's normal to burn oil no matter how you ride. 6k rpms for 500 miles? That would be what 85+ mph for 7 hours? No police up there?

No eye has seen, no ear has heard, no mind has conceived what God has prepared for those who love him. 1 Cor 2:9
Spec is offline  
post #7 of 44 Old 06-13-2012, 09:35 AM
OverDrive
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: NW MO
Posts: 5,327
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spec View Post
I'll bet your valves are tight. The bike should start with 2-3 turns of the starter without giving it gas when they are in spec.:
This is what I noticed immediately when I began starting the KLR after I did my valves: almost instantaneous starting compared to before.



planalp is offline  
post #8 of 44 Old 06-13-2012, 02:43 PM
1st Gear
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Jackson, MS
Posts: 22
I checked my '09 at 600 miles and at least one of mine was at the tight end of the specs so I went ahead and adjusted them to the loose end of the specs. Glad I checked it at 600 instead of waiting. Its a great way to get acquainted with your bike. After that, you'll be a lot more confident with projects in the future. YouTube has lots of videos on KLR repairs. A Clymer manual is great for reference, too. Between them and this forum, you should be covered. Good luck.
halloweenb is offline  
post #9 of 44 Old 06-13-2012, 03:52 PM
2nd Gear
 
ArcticKLR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: No. CA
Posts: 366
Spec, thank you for the heads up, thats been on my mind based upon my research and is why I took some days off this month. The mileage is aggregate out of the last thousand. Yes there are cops up here but they don't seem to think my bike can go that fast since its a KLR, and I also use the varying of speed in relation to those around me to always just appear a little bit faster even if it's a lot. A good cop can pick it out but most are so reliant on their radars now that it tends to be a moot point.


Sent from my Motorcycle iPhone app
ArcticKLR is offline  
post #10 of 44 Old 06-13-2012, 07:26 PM Thread Starter
2nd Gear
 
wrenrj1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Nebraska
Posts: 186
Thanks for the replies. I'll have the valve clearance checked in the next 1000 miles when I get the oil changed again. I think I said this in my OP, but the dealership was not hesitant to check the valve clearance for me if I wanted, due to having the MA, but I was picking up my bike with my trailer etc. and didn't want to leave it there, plus I didn't want to make work if it wasn't needed.

The KLR starts up with 4-5 chugs, although I've had a handful of backfires, i.e. less than five, it runs fine.
wrenrj1 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in













Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Feeler Gauge For Valve Clearance Check planalp 2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions 2 09-09-2011 11:56 PM
Okay, When Should I Check My Valve Clearance? planalp 2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions 10 06-30-2011 02:43 PM
Valve Adjustment charles 1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods 10 09-15-2010 10:34 AM
Valve adjustment waverlyhagood KLR & Other Motorcycle Related Discussion 3 04-22-2008 05:26 PM
Valve Adjustment nrlightfoot 1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods 3 02-05-2007 07:09 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome