Valve check and adjustment. - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

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post #1 of 15 Old 06-22-2012, 07:06 PM Thread Starter
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Valve check and adjustment.

Ok, any last minute tips out there for doing the valve check and adjustment on the Gen 2? Just checking, have the Clymer manual and am comfortable working on my bike but throwing it out there as books don't teach as well as experience. Thanks all.


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post #2 of 15 Old 06-22-2012, 07:13 PM
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It is possible that the threaded boss on the top of the cover that the air injection pipe clamp attaches to will hit the top tube of the frame, making it impossible (or at least very difficult) to remove the cover. This happens on a few '07 and up (they introduced the cover with the boss on it late in '07 production), but it is rather a rare occurrence.

Other than that, you should be good to go.

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post #3 of 15 Old 06-22-2012, 07:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArcticKLR View Post
Ok, any last minute tips out there for doing the valve check and adjustment on the Gen 2? Just checking, have the Clymer manual and am comfortable working on my bike but throwing it out there as books don't teach as well as experience. Thanks all.


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I found this to be a good video for my first time...


hope it helps...It is Gen 1 but the process is the same...Also have some RTV for the gaskets afterwards, and watch out for the abyss...that deep dark hole on the left that if you drop anything into, will make your day that much longer...
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post #4 of 15 Old 06-22-2012, 07:22 PM
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Also the shim is 29mm in diameter incase you did not find it in the manual...
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post #5 of 15 Old 06-22-2012, 10:12 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the tips guys. Been watching a lot of videos as well as reading. Used to working on bikes but it's the first time I'm tearing into the upper engine of the KLR. Bike only has 6500m on it but i dont trust Kawi recomendations of 15000m. Really!? We'll see, I'm betting I have a couple out of spec based upon how the bikes been running lately.
I ended up getting EM shims as I have been happy with his Doo and he was much cheaper than a dealer. They wanted fifteen a shim here, plus I would have had to tear into her and leave her sitting while I went to get them. His whole kit was only 25.more with tax and shipping. I'd rather have the parts ready. Plus I have a buddy that is looking into a KLR so figured having some spares might come in handy down the road. Hopefully I won't be a lucky one that has an impossible cover. I'll let y'all know.
Thanks again!

Mike


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post #6 of 15 Old 06-23-2012, 01:00 AM
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Those clip/nut things for the radiator fan bolts seem to dislodge very easily and are easily lost. Try to get your finger back there to hold them when you take the bolt out so they don't fall somewhere you can't find them.



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post #7 of 15 Old 06-23-2012, 06:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArcticKLR View Post
Thanks for the tips guys. Been watching a lot of videos as well as reading. Used to working on bikes but it's the first time I'm tearing into the upper engine of the KLR. Bike only has 6500m on it but i dont trust Kawi recomendations of 15000m. Really!? We'll see, I'm betting I have a couple out of spec based upon how the bikes been running lately.
I ended up getting EM shims as I have been happy with his Doo and he was much cheaper than a dealer. They wanted fifteen a shim here, plus I would have had to tear into her and leave her sitting while I went to get them. His whole kit was only 25.more with tax and shipping. I'd rather have the parts ready. Plus I have a buddy that is looking into a KLR so figured having some spares might come in handy down the road. Hopefully I won't be a lucky one that has an impossible cover. I'll let y'all know.
Thanks again!

Mike


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Good move, I checked mine at 12k and it I had one intake at .08mm when the spec is .10-.20mm, so I am concerned what would happen if I left it until 15k....

Which shim kit did you order? I required 255 to replace the 265 stock so I ended up with a 0.18mm. From this site I learned that the shims can be ordered at 0.05 intervals 250,255,260, etc.

Good luck...let us know about the experience.
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post #8 of 15 Old 06-24-2012, 03:33 AM Thread Starter
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I ordered the Eagle Mike kit. It gives you 12 ranging from 2.35-2.70. Check out or google search Eaglemike.com. I used his doohickey with torsion spring and have had good results so I chose his manufactured shims. Plus they were half the price of the dealers. Only cost me 25.00 more with shipping than just 4 shims from the dealer. I will say I unfortunately experienced the "abyss of doom" with one of the dang spacers, my own fault, was checking and did not use my magnet for a single spacer... Murphy bit me. I had to take of the lower engine cover and remove the rotor to get it. It was fun... Thanks again for the tips. It did make the rest of it easier.


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post #9 of 15 Old 06-24-2012, 07:07 AM
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Thanks for the info...ride safe
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post #10 of 15 Old 06-24-2012, 08:35 AM
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Are EM # values different from stock?
How were your valves? In or out? I suppose I should check mine someday.

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