Its a bad night in the garage tonight. I had a little drip following a high center move a week or so back. Tonight I drained the oil and guess what I found? Yep, cracked case. A nice hair line crack right up the threads on the front side of the plug. So the options I can think of are pull the motor and replace the section, have someone handy with a tig give it a go or.......I dont believe I am going to say this......JB Weld. What do you think my all knowing KLR friends? Much thanks in advance from a much bummed out KLR guy.:t1202:
I tried but when you pull the plug out and look at it you can really see no damage Eric. The crack runs from the flat surface the washer seats to strait up the housing through all the threads. The one picture I got that showed something just looked like a hair on the sealing surface. However when you put the plug in and torque it down it pulls the crack apart and the drip starts.
I'm not a fan of JB weld. If you try it you should probably grind out a scarf for the material to lie in. And it must be clean clean clean, before you apply the JB weld. I have not heard of anyone welding the cases. I don't see why it can't be done. I don't know if anyone knows what the case material is for sure, which would be essential information for a welder. You can always try the JB weld first and if it does not work then try welding. Good Luck.
The case material is the big question. I am not a mig guy but if its not the right mix I would think it could be worse off?
I like you am not a JB guy. However I have over the years seen some stuff repaired with it that I said would never last. Two rerpairs that stick out are a stripped bolt on a Cat head and a broken mounting ear on a charge air cooler. Both repairs were done on the same vehicle and six years later its still running.
There was a good thread about a broken drain plug not to long ago, here's the link.
Like the others have mentioned a good welder is not going to attempt without knowing what the material is.
I'm a JB Weld guy myself. Prep is the key to getting a good repair. Use a solvent and clean all the oil and grease. Rough up the area with something like a wire wheel on a drill. Clean again. I would try to get the crack to expand a bit by putting in the plug and working some JB into it then pull the plug. Build up the area around the drain. Let it set 24 hours.
Spec I think you are on the right track here. OMG 8 pages of love on that other thread for sure. If somebody has more insite keep it coming. However I think I am going to go the JB Weld road and hope to get it patched up for the year and then use this as a reason to go 685 this winter and replace the case. All the best plans you know. I will update when I get it done. Much thanks guys, this is why this site is so great, good folks. :desismiley1:
Perhaps you should consider "stop drilling" the crack first.
This is a common technique whereby a tiny hole is drilled at the furthest end of a crack, the idea being to stop it spreading further. I've never used JB Weld but I'm aware of the type of repair and agree that it could go for ever if you do a good job. If it was mine that's what I'd do and and then, being acutely conscious of the weakness there, would maybe use sealant or locktite or thread tape or a combination of all three whenever I changed the oil in future and then tighten it enough to seat nicely and no more. Perhaps lockwire the bolt if you are worried about it coming loose.
A few random thoughts.
iddy
Just curious, iddy; how would you plug the stop-drill hole???????????
As to case welding; I know of a successful incident; new KLR; cracked case on rock (BEHIND the stock bash plate); rider had it welded by a competent shop, no subsequent problems.
Without examining the instant crack under discussion, if it doesn't extend too far radially, looks like a re-bore and tap to a larger size might cure everything.
If only a slight radial excursion, an oversize drain plug might fix it, although I realize some forum members run, screaming, from the room at this prospect!
Based on your description of the crack, my vote is for some JB Weld. If it doesn't work, you're not out much. Doesn't sound like the kind of damage where you would experience a catastrophic oil leak if it didn't work.
Just curious: what kind of skid plate did you have on when this happened?
I wish you luck with your repair. At least it doesn't sounds as challenging as the damage the guy had in the other referenced thread.
Happy Trails PD guard Eric. You know I really cant blame the guard I dont think. It was like the perfect shot. Puched the guard up just a hair and grabbed the enge of the plug. I will however be getting a plug that does not stick down so far and making a little raised area in front of the plug before its over.
One problem I see here is the crack opens up when you tighten drain plug as you stated. Could you modify drain plug by drilling and tapping it for an eighth inch allen pipe plug that won't protrude below drain plug and mend crack and drain plug with the JB Weld or epoxy at the same time. You could drain oil by removing pipe plug, although it will take longer. Just my thoughts. Good Luck
Nope, you are right on here... I am going to pull the motor this weekend. The first plan was to grind and fill the crack with JB Weld and then I was going to (as bad as this sounds) make a well with silicone around the plug boss that then would be filled with a bunch more JB Weld. However I just got off the phone with a guy that owns a metal works shop and he says its not a problem. The guy says he can just grind it out and weld it up. He says its not the first time he has done this type of repair so I am going to have him work his magic....
I would still be much more inclined to repair your existing case with whatever means works best... Replacing a case is not a simple job (or cheap!). Would it still be possible to go the oversized plug route as Lonerider suggested, or did the welder mess things up too badly?
I thought Chrile Danniels was a fiddle player from North Carolina. Seriously, though, sorry to hear about your welding experience, moriver. I was hoping it would work for you. Glad to hear you're at least back on the road for the rest of the season. Good luck on getting it permanently repaired.
Perhaps too late now, but there is a simple effective automotive fix for this and I don't see why it wouldn't work on any bike. It's just a black rubber plug sort of like you'd see in the handlebar end of an old school racing bicycle to hold the loose end of the white handlebar tape in place. It has a captive nut on the smaller end and a bolt that goes up through from the stepped (larger) end so that once inserted, simply tightening the bolt causes the rubber to swell and seal against the threaded side of the drain hole. Used this many years ago on cars that weren't worth spending money on for an instant, cheap solution for just this problem.
Now that I think of it I've seen this solved once before in a nicer fashion, you need access to a lathe or milling machine though unless you're very handy with a drill press. Simply choose a suitable smaller diameter bolt to use as a new drain plug - no need for it to be anywhere near as fat as the original. Drill and tap a hole to suit through the centre of the Kawasaki drain plug, then thoroughly degrease and clean the original threads (both inside and outside). Simply smear Araldite generously on said threads and install the original (permanently obviously) into place - not necessary for it to be done up tightly. Once hardened, you just use the new, smaller bolt (perhaps 10 mm or 3/8 inch thread) for oil changes - easy
The KLR drain plug points down & back and it is very near flush with the exterior of many skid plates.
Any extended length will make the 'repaired' drain plug even more vulnerable, IMO.
I use donut holes cut from tires to pad & space skid plates Down a little further.
Now that I think of it I've seen this solved once before in a nicer fashion, you need access to a lathe or milling machine though unless you're very handy with a drill press. Simply choose a suitable smaller diameter bolt to use as a new drain plug - no need for it to be anywhere near as fat as the original. Drill and tap a hole to suit through the centre of the Kawasaki drain plug, then thoroughly degrease and clean the original threads (both inside and outside). Simply smear Araldite generously on said threads and install the original (permanently obviously) into place - not necessary for it to be done up tightly. Once hardened, you just use the new, smaller bolt (perhaps 10 mm or 3/8 inch thread) for oil changes - easy
Instead of JB weld look up and order what is called ( pig putty) its a million times better than JB weld. It comes in a tube and is probably $15. When I was doing linework in NH. Each truck carried it to plug a leaking transformer. I used it once in florida to help a guy that put a sliver through his oil line on his Harley. We wiped it best we could and put 2 layers on it and he drove around for days before it even started to show sighns.
It dries hard fast and can be tapped and drilled.
If the case isn't aluminum, it could be braised.
another option that would work is to get a short flat bolt that fits the hole and get the allen drain plug that is used on the Harley primary. ( its tapered ) just needs the Teflon tape.
After drilling and tapping it, pig putty it in place and all around the crack. Leaving just enough of it to get a wrench on it to hold it wile taking off and putting in the allen drain plug.
Sorry to hear about it. Good luck.
I, and I think others on the forum, appreciate your helpful suggestions to solve the problem.
"Oil Leaks At Cracks In Drain" didn't STOP in 2012! Someone will have the opportunity to apply your suggested fix to the problem.
Appreciate your helpful post.
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