Electrical Problem - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 09-01-2012, 03:25 PM Thread Starter
2nd Gear
 
Darkside's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Timmins, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 103
Electrical Problem

2008 KLR - Purchased a new sealed battery at the beginning of the riding season as the original was getting slow to start. Ran the new one for a month and went on a three day trip. It got progressively harder to start and on the third morning it was dead. I thought it was just a bad battery so got another in July and charged it up exactly to specifications. Again, gets progressively harder to start and , after a two day trip it barely starts so now I am thinking it's the charging system.

Attached a volt meter today with the following results:

Battery at rest, not running - 11.76 v, running - 11.29 to 11.55 v, 3000 rpm - 11.42 v, running at idle after 5 minutes - 11.66 to 12.15. Not running and headlight on - 11.21 v.

I have a Clymer manual and it would appear it's the charging system - either there is a short in the charging wiring or a problem with the Sator or Regulator?

Any advice oh wise KLR owners?

"All in all you're just another brick in the wall"

Darkside is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 09-01-2012, 06:07 PM
4th Gear
 
larry31's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 1,063
I've never dug into a KLR charge system, but I had to trouble shoot my Suzuki Cavalcade and my Honda NX250's systems.

If the Clymer manual has instructions in it's trouble shooting section, try to follow that.
If you have a multimeter, use it both to measure voltages at different points as per the manual, and ohm / continuity as per the manual.

The stator wires can be ohm'd out and the regulator can be measured for output as well by measuring voltage at different points in the chargeing system.

Sounds like there is a problem in the generation of voltage from your readings.
You should measure, at the battery, at least 13 - 14 volts while the bike is running at least 2,000 rpm.

Good luck.

If you have accessories wired, You may want to disconnect them to see if any are causing shorts.
Also check for possible shorts in your wiring harness.

Ageing Gracefully



2017 Yamaha XT250
1990 Honda NX250 (Green/White)
2011 Kawasaki KLR 650 (Orange & White )

My KLR Page..http://www.powers31.info/2011_KLR650.htm

Mod's to KLR:
Power socket, L.E.D. Battery Indicator, Camera bag holder
Custom Saddlebag frames .
Louder horns, Firstgear Onyx tail bag.
Custom Aluminum Skid Plate.
Cut down seat with Custom pad.
Go Pro Camera mount.
Doo-Hicky

Last edited by larry31; 09-01-2012 at 06:10 PM.
larry31 is offline  
Old 09-02-2012, 04:06 PM Thread Starter
2nd Gear
 
Darkside's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Timmins, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 103
Okay, so I charged up another battery to start from fresh and did the Regulated Voltage Test which resulted in acceptable readings of 13.1 to 13.5 volts. I tested the Stator - 0, tested the Regulator - 0 which according to the Clymer Manual indicated they were okay.

The next order of business was a Battery Current Draw Test (disconnected neg cable and tested for draw between the cable and negative terminal) and found a draw of 2.7 volts. That appeared to be why I was losing my battery over the month? I started checking the wiring harness and noted a big jump in draw (8 volts) when I jiggled the Starter Relay. I removed the Starter Relay and found two things:

1. There was a 30 A fuse in it even though it specifies a 20 A fuse ( the spare was also 30 A)

2. The fuse was melted on one side and welded in the socket





Now I am by no means a mechanic or an electrician so I am assuming this is my problem? Can anyone confirm this would cause the draw in power from the battery and that by replacing it, I will solve the problem? I would also like to know if the 30 A fuse was improper?

Any assistance with my questions would be appreciated.

"All in all you're just another brick in the wall"

Darkside is offline  
 
Old 09-02-2012, 06:25 PM
Banned
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Mid-Atlantic
Posts: 763
The 30-amp fuse (and condition of its mount) suggests the PO was blowing 20-amp fuses; probably because of an undetected and unrepaired short-circuit.

My own assessment . . . ain't nothin' wrong with a 30-amp fuse, don't want no 20-amp fuses blowing over l'il ol' things . . .

Checking continuity (or lack thereof) between harness wires and ground may be in order (looking for short-circuits), with wiring diagram and multi-meter in hand.

Wish I could be more specific, but long-distance troubleshooting has its limitations!
LoneRider is offline  
Old 09-02-2012, 07:53 PM
4th Gear
 
larry31's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 1,063
NOTE: If you start checking continuity, make sure you disconnect your battery's positive lead from the battery.
Ohm meters ( Continuity checkers ) don't like voltage on them!!

Ageing Gracefully



2017 Yamaha XT250
1990 Honda NX250 (Green/White)
2011 Kawasaki KLR 650 (Orange & White )

My KLR Page..http://www.powers31.info/2011_KLR650.htm

Mod's to KLR:
Power socket, L.E.D. Battery Indicator, Camera bag holder
Custom Saddlebag frames .
Louder horns, Firstgear Onyx tail bag.
Custom Aluminum Skid Plate.
Cut down seat with Custom pad.
Go Pro Camera mount.
Doo-Hicky
larry31 is offline  
Old 09-02-2012, 08:08 PM Thread Starter
2nd Gear
 
Darkside's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Timmins, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 103
Thank you larry31 and LoneRider, once I get my new Relay I will start checking wires in the harness.

"All in all you're just another brick in the wall"

Darkside is offline  
Old 09-02-2012, 09:05 PM
1st Gear
 
Ecip's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 91
Looks like that fuse didnt even blow.
Ecip is offline  
Old 09-02-2012, 09:55 PM
2nd Gear
 
terry_1956's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Casper, WY
Posts: 389
Looks like it was drawing between 20-30 amps for an extended period of time, causing it to melt like that. That's why PO changed to a 30 amp.
terry_1956 is offline  
Old 09-02-2012, 10:21 PM Thread Starter
2nd Gear
 
Darkside's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Timmins, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 103
Why would the fuse not blow? Could it be just a faulty Starter Relay? As soon as I get the replacement installed, I will check for a draw, I guess if there is none it was the Relay.

"All in all you're just another brick in the wall"

Darkside is offline  
Old 09-02-2012, 10:47 PM
2nd Gear
 
terry_1956's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Casper, WY
Posts: 389
Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkside View Post
Why would the fuse not blow? Could it be just a faulty Starter Relay? As soon as I get the replacement installed, I will check for a draw, I guess if there is none it was the Relay.
Probably drawing over 20 amps (That's why PO changed to a 30) , but under 30 amps so fuse didn't blow, melting of fuse indicates drawing for enough time to get hot and melt.
terry_1956 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
 

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Thread Tools



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
08 KLR Electrical problem...any help apreciated! captain_dc 2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions 27 03-01-2013 03:08 PM
Electrical Problem Garyp138 1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods 11 05-27-2012 04:00 PM
Electrical Problem WanderFar 1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods 13 05-19-2011 09:30 PM
89 electrical problem George 1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods 0 01-23-2008 08:00 AM
They're BAAAAaaaaack...electrical problem [email protected]%$& G-unit 1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods 17 11-09-2006 02:21 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome