2012 KLR odd slipping? - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
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post #1 of 17 Old 09-13-2012, 07:05 AM Thread Starter
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2012 KLR odd slipping?

Hey guys,

I recently purchased my first motorbike and went with a new 2012 KLR650. As i'm reasonably tall at 6ft8 this was the only Learner approved motorcycle i could find that was comfortable. Also its probably worth noting i've never worked on cars or motorbikes apart from my 1:5th scale two stroke remote control cars.

Anyway i've put 1800km (1118 miles) on the odometer so far. Now i have found that if im travelling along doing about 70-80km/h or (43.5-49mph) in 4th or 5th gear (usually up a slight hill on a motorway/freeway) i occasionally get this sensation thats similar to quickly squeezing the clutch for a split second.. its a jolt of sorts, like something slipped with the throttle open? I do feel a slight knock or vibration when this happens against my left leg like something hit something else.

Now i have had the carb de-restricted, clutch lever slack checked and heated grips that i installed myself, everything else is stock and all appears normal. I just had it serviced for the first time last week by the mechanic and its still doing it, mechanic thought it may have been the carb restriction doing it and starving the engine hence the de-restriction?? This bike has never been taken off tar as im using it to get to run around on locally and get to University and thats highway.

Any ideas what could be causing this?

PS It has behaved like this since new.

Cheers,
Paul

Last edited by slip_phreak; 09-13-2012 at 07:06 AM. Reason: more info
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post #2 of 17 Old 09-13-2012, 07:31 AM
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Take it to a good Kawi mechanic. There is no carb restrictor. Get it fixed while under warranty.

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post #3 of 17 Old 09-13-2012, 07:36 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Savage View Post
Take it to a good Kawi mechanic. There is no carb restrictor. Get it fixed while under warranty.
In the aussie version they use a restricted in carb to make it a learner approved bike so it meets the <150kw/tonne and less than 660cc. For example my bike would rev freely to red line but there was no real speed gains or pull above 5000rpm, just noise.

But as it happens so rarely what do i tell the mechanic to fix? Could it be the doohickey spring?? Everyone i have spoken to has no idea what could be causing it.
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post #4 of 17 Old 09-13-2012, 09:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slip_phreak View Post
... As i'm reasonably tall at 6ft8 ...l
Paul -

Welcome to the forum; you might want to start over with a new username.

Might I suggest "Master of Understatement"?

First off, this is not a doohickey issue. Were it that, you'd merely hear noise indicating a need for adjustment.

What you describe could be related to the removal of the restriction, but it could also be lean surge. A 22cent mod could fix that. Lean surge is usually gentle, kind of an "unnnh-unnnh" feeling.

You describe it as being more of a violent, sharp sensation, so it also could be that the transmission is not fully engaged in top gear and is hunting a bit between 4th and 5th. The transmission is a constant-mesh unit, so this is possible.

Most KLR riders shift into 5th gear and then, out of habit or desire, reach for 6th. Try this reaching for 6th routine to make sure that the bike is firmly engaged in top gear just to eliminate that as a possibility. You may find that your feet don't fit the peg-shifter span well, causing upshift issues. You can cure that to some degree with an extended shifter, and you can rotate the shifter lever around on it's shaft to a more comfortable position.

Diagnosing over the internet can be tough, at best. Have you any other symptoms or conditions under which this occurs?

By the by, since you're at 1800K, you should adjust the doo. Using a 1/4" drive ratchet, crack it off, rap the back of the ratchet with the handle of a large screw driver several times, then re-tighten the adjuster bolt to no more than 9Nm.

T

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Last edited by Tom Schmitz; 09-13-2012 at 09:47 AM.
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post #5 of 17 Old 09-18-2012, 11:55 PM
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Hi Slip!
Have your mechanic check your fueltank venting system. If the fueltank is not venting properly it creates a vacuum in the tank causing a lean condition and power loss. If the venting is restricted rather than plugged you will likely only notice the surge after sustained higher rpm operation. You can also open the fuel tank cap when the problem occurs and if opened soon enough you may be able to hear the rush of air into the tank. If the venting system was plugged completely the engine would quit running due to lack of fuel. This problem is very common with outboard boat engines when people forget to open the fuel tank vent on the gas filler cap!
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post #6 of 17 Old 09-19-2012, 12:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Schmitz View Post
Paul -

Welcome to the forum; you might want to start over with a new username.

Might I suggest "Master of Understatement"?

First off, this is not a doohickey issue. Were it that, you'd merely hear noise indicating a need for adjustment.

What you describe could be related to the removal of the restriction, but it could also be lean surge. A 22cent mod could fix that. Lean surge is usually gentle, kind of an "unnnh-unnnh" feeling.

You describe it as being more of a violent, sharp sensation, so it also could be that the transmission is not fully engaged in top gear and is hunting a bit between 4th and 5th. The transmission is a constant-mesh unit, so this is possible.

Most KLR riders shift into 5th gear and then, out of habit or desire, reach for 6th. Try this reaching for 6th routine to make sure that the bike is firmly engaged in top gear just to eliminate that as a possibility. You may find that your feet don't fit the peg-shifter span well, causing upshift issues. You can cure that to some degree with an extended shifter, and you can rotate the shifter lever around on it's shaft to a more comfortable position.

Diagnosing over the internet can be tough, at best. Have you any other symptoms or conditions under which this occurs?

By the by, since you're at 1800K, you should adjust the doo. Using a 1/4" drive ratchet, crack it off, rap the back of the ratchet with the handle of a large screw driver several times, then re-tighten the adjuster bolt to no more than 9Nm.

T
Hi tom!
If the transmission were shifting back and forth between gears, would that not show up in massive rpm changes on the tachometer which would be very obvious?
On an other note: If the BMW Sertao doesn't get sixth gear, why should we
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post #7 of 17 Old 09-19-2012, 01:29 AM
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Jeff,
I had a similar issue with my bike slipping down from 5th to 4th. The rpm change isn't that drastic 100-200 rpms and you can easily miss it if sustaining high RPMs. I found after focusing on it while riding that the toe of my boot was just touching my shifter and occasionally would tap it down. Also when my oil is reaching the end of its service life I notice some slippage there as well as rougher shifting. I don't have the experience Tom has, but just wanted to throw out what I have seen on my bike. Hope it helps.


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post #8 of 17 Old 09-19-2012, 07:50 AM
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I go by what RPM the engine is at when this is occuring....most KLRs in North America surge like Tom says around the 4000 range due to being severely lean from the factory. We usually solve this by either doing the 22 cent mod or the KLX needle mod which is the better way to do it, but both will work. Plus we unplug the pilot jet adjustment screw and adjust it to 2 turns out from seated for a good starting point on a stock set up. While in the carb I usually do the drilling of the slide after discussing it with the owner of the benefits of doing this other mod. It entails drilling the off centre hole in the slider, the one the needle does NOT go through one size up to 7/64th" This mod allows the slider to react quicker to the throttle movement as it alows air to flow faster and have less restriction as it does. The 22 cent mod slightly lifts the needle to allow a bit more fuel to get through the stock main jet. It is roughly 20 thou" and a #4 stainless steel washer normally. The KLX needle is the best way, it is better tapered and allows amuch better air fuel mixture to be obtained. It is also adjustable. I also do the "T" mod to make 100% sure that if you do use your bike off road and get into deeper water or get caught in a huge rain storm the carb breather hose doesn't suck any water into itself. The newer version bikes have their hoses running along the subframe tube so it isn't as much of a problem as the older version bikes. I'm not sure if the Austraiian bikes have their hoses routed down or along the frame ...? Sorry. I also suggest using a UNI airfliter as it is know to flow the best over all others and has been proven to do so on a flow bench....please don't ask for proof, it has been done, I just don't remember where the chart is on the net. Sorry. I also recommend using an Iridium spark plug, an excellent plug over the stock plug.
Other than that it is something more involved and needs to be closer diagnosed.....yes it could be a fuel vacuum issue as well but I don't see many of those at all I'm afraid but they have been know to happen.
Also, what main jet is in the carb if you have had the carb apart...? Again not sure what the down under bikes have for their restrictions...? I usually see 145 mains.

Now...we can also go to a completely new area to check for this type of feeling....the chain. Is it nicely oiled and always has been? If not and is rusted, it could have a stiff link. Does it have a section that doesn't naturally lay flat? That is when the chain is on the bottom of the cycle.....if it had a bend so to speak in it, it has a stiff link and will sometimes give you the same feeling. Check your chain for a stiff or frozen link. One that doesn't easily move. If you have this, you can try and free it up with lube but sometimes it just best to replace the chain with an "O ring" or "X ring" chain. They are just better IMHO.

I hope this helps.....

Willys
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post #9 of 17 Old 09-19-2012, 09:09 AM
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my 2011 had a clutch slipping issue, the problem was the friction point was set to far out on the clutch travel. you can adjust this right were the clutch cable enters the engine case. So basically you are driving around with the clutch lever slightly pulled all the time. As the mileage increase the cable stretching will help as well.
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post #10 of 17 Old 09-19-2012, 10:08 AM
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I never thought of this simple thing as I always think people would naturally know this. Sorry. If this is it, then it is a simple fix also, as stated just adjust the clutch lever to have some freeplay in it and not be constantly tight or engaged.

Again, I just never think some would not already know this.....DOH!
My mistake....lol

Willys
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