Bike Gearing Calculator (Excel File) - Page 4 - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

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post #31 of 39 Old 02-04-2015, 08:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frstone3 View Post
So, if I were to get a 38 rear and a 16 front, would I have to use a smaller chain or could I adjust out the slack? I dont know why but I am just really excited to try this... Thanks again for all your info.
Frstone3,
If Necessary, and you can Only Shorten 2 links at a time, you should be able to purchase/order a Clip Style Master link from any motorcycle dealership to fit an EK Brand, MVXZ 520 'o'-ring chain, to fit a Stock ENDLESS, KLR650, EK brand chain.

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Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 85,000+ miles & counting
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post #32 of 39 Old 03-15-2015, 02:34 PM
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I'm a new member, just seeing this and want to say thanks!
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post #33 of 39 Old 04-01-2015, 12:11 PM
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okay, may be obvious to many but I need to ask. Why would I want to change my gearing that was engineered for the bike. It creeps when I want and does highway speeds when I want ????
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post #34 of 39 Old 04-01-2015, 12:34 PM
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okay, may be obvious to many but I need to ask. Why would I want to change my gearing that was engineered for the bike. It creeps when I want and does highway speeds when I want ????
Only if one wants to go even Slower in the Rock Pile or Lower RPM at highway speeds.

Its your bike, ride it your way. I've used stock gearing forever (74,850ish miles), like yourself.

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 85,000+ miles & counting
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post #35 of 39 Old 04-01-2015, 12:52 PM
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I have been looking at lots of you tube videos. I notice that lots of people, as I also do, kill it at low speeds. Would changing of gearing help with the high rpm I hear most people use when creeping , just before they kill it. That makes sense to me, then, to be able to creep slower if one does a lot of "creeping" down trails. thanks.

thanks.

i started on this site yesterday to see about tech tips and help. but finding I am learning tips on "how to ride" also. I must admit that I can feel the pain of those on the videos I "hear" on the the huffing and puffing of lifting the bike up, especially on the downhill spills.
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post #36 of 39 Old 05-18-2015, 03:56 PM
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Many, like myself, take the big KLR into places that the stock gearing could be a hindrance. I find the 14T front with stock 43T rear makes 2nd gear truly usable off road, allowing me to take many hills in 2nd, leaving a lower first if I run of steam. It is a bit buzzier on the road this way, however. I also have a 16T front I have put on for long road-oriented trips, and I like it for that purpose, too. One of the many virtues of the KLR, it is pretty easy to modify to suit you needs. YMMV.
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post #37 of 39 Old 07-08-2016, 11:28 PM
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Just tried out my 17. This is in concert with a 42 rear.

Also, I run a 140/80 which totally fills up the swingarm to 1/4 inch all the way
around the front horseshoe and sides. (No chain guards anyway.) Guides, yes,
guards, nope.

At an indicated 62 mph the engine was lazy-ing along at 3700 rpms. That brought it
up to the mid 4's and up to 5k at interstate speeds of 70-85mph. With the power
delivery loss of the taller ratio, wind resistance takes over and top speed remains
the same in the mid 90's to 100 on a downhill straight in a wind tuck. lol

Trying different things as I have 15,16,17,42,43 all to play with and two tire sizes.
The file seems close to dead on accurate other than variables we bring to the table
such as a huge tire, the transmission gearing change in 2nd and 3rd with Gen 2, and
of course not dragging and cooking the clutch. I wouldn't want to use synthetic with
the tall ratios putting more force on the friction plates. Dunno if that'll come into play
with 40 hp or not.

CheapAndGoingRiding.
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post #38 of 39 Old 04-17-2017, 10:58 PM
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Bike Gearing Calculator (Excel File)

Quote:
Originally Posted by klrkurt View Post
okay, may be obvious to many but I need to ask. Why would I want to change my gearing that was engineered for the bike. It creeps when I want and does highway speeds when I want ????


Some states have high freeway speed limits. Here in Idaho, I am pretty much limited to highways due to the 80 mph speed limit on the freeway. The bike will do about 85 as it sits, but only with the throttle pinned. With all the hills that you drive over from the Idaho/Oregon border (where I live) and Boise (where pretty much everything is),I imagine it would be tough to not piss people off behind me that want to go 85-90 mph.

That's where my question comes in... I recently went to the local dealer to pick up a couple parts I ordered. While I was there, I checked out the 2017 KLR650s and pretty much fell in love. Though still rugged, they appear more street oriented than my 2001 KLR. Given my bike has almost 50k miles, would it be worth it to get a fresh machine? Or should I just re gear the one I have? Have they upped the top speed of the KLR650 as I imagine they are probable fuel injected now?


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post #39 of 39 Old 04-18-2017, 09:00 AM
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Nope still carb.

My '16 will run all day at 80. I put a 16T gear on, helps quite a bit to get it there. With 1200 miles on it now it started to develop a weave in certain road and wind conditions so I generally keep the speeds down. New tires may be sooner than later.

2016 KLR 650
2017 BMW S1000RR (traded in for
2018 Ducati V4S
1983 GL1100 Goldwing
2017 Yamaha R1
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