common mods - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
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post #1 of 9 Old 09-23-2012, 02:52 PM Thread Starter
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common mods

Hey guys just had a few questions. The klx needle people are talking about, is that the NITC needle from the klx 300? Second the snorkel removal on the 08's and up is that the rubber bit on the left side people are talking about? I'm thinking about doing the L mod with the 1 inch uni filters. What about the mainjet, is stock a 148 and do I need to go to a 150?
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post #2 of 9 Old 09-23-2012, 03:44 PM
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I personally used a Dyno Jet kit on mine and set it for the mid performance. Also a partial cutout of the air box on the top not a complete l mod. Trashed the stock air filter and used a UNI. Runs great. EM also makes a kit as does Moose and Schnitz. I left my snorkel intact. Also installed an after market exhaust.

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post #3 of 9 Old 09-23-2012, 04:11 PM
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KLX needle is a kit from eagle mike
don't cut the top of your airbox, drill 4 1" holes in the top instead, that way if you don't like it you can fit electrical box plugs into them and it's back to stock again.
remove the snorkle
UNI air filter
Drill the carb slider to 7/64ths no more
unplug the pilot jet screw and turn it out 2 1/4 turns from seated
iridium spark plug
you can mod the stock exhaust can my way so to speak....I drill out the indented section at the back of the can and then chisel the holes together, then I stick a solid bar into the end hole and wiggle it around until the 3 spot welds break off of the spark arrester deep inside the can. You end up with a slightly larger hole for the exhaust to flow out of allowing the engine to be better ballanced after installing the UNI and opening up the air cleaner with the 1" holes and removing the snorkle.After opening up the opening and cleaning it up so there isn't any sharp edges to get caught on, I weld a short pipe just a bit wider than the opening at a slight angle to keep the hot gasses off the rear fender.
Make sure your valve shim gaps are gapped to the maximun of the specification....exhaust .15-.25 intake .10-.20
After this it starts to get expensive.....
fork brace
685 kit bigger valves
cams
header pipe
slip-on
flatslide carb
cbr600rr master
DL1000caliper
SS lines front and rear
better springs front and rear
revalving of both suspension ends
better lighting
better fairing
better handlebars
better seat
crashbars fron tand rear
luggage


There are many others but those are a few some of us have already done....lol

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post #4 of 9 Old 09-23-2012, 08:23 PM
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I could be wrong but I don't think a flat side carb fits.

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post #5 of 9 Old 09-23-2012, 10:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Back Trailin View Post
Hey guys just had a few questions. The klx needle people are talking about, is that the NITC needle from the klx 300? Second the snorkel removal on the 08's and up is that the rubber bit on the left side people are talking about? I'm thinking about doing the L mod with the 1 inch uni filters. What about the mainjet, is stock a 148 and do I need to go to a 150?
Hi Back Trailin-

Welcome to the forum.

The KLX needle is the NT1B.

On the snorkel - yes, it is the inverted rubber horn in the back of the airbox on the rear left side.

On the L-Mod - you can use the 1" UNI filters, but it really isn't necessary. Just poke the 1" holes. I think with the UNI filter plugs you wind up with roughly the equivalent of a half inch hole.

For the main jet to use, refer to the instructions that Schnitz publishes. You can find it at the Schnitz Racing site.

T

Tom [email protected]

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Last edited by Tom Schmitz; 09-23-2012 at 10:13 PM.
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post #6 of 9 Old 09-24-2012, 08:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Savage View Post
I could be wrong but I don't think a flat side carb fits.

The flatslide isn't an easy fit but it does fit with a bit of modification...I'm running with one....it comes from a 2005(I think) Yami 426cc MX bike....it transforms our bikes into well what a 650 should feel like! I can easily lift the front wheel at any speed in first without clutching it, with clutching at any speed in second......I'm not a wheelie person and do not have the skills to do them at all well. I use the power of the engine to lift the tire maybe a foot off the ground and then either keep it there or let it down asap! Falling off scares the bageebers out of me so I do not hunt for the ballance point.

The carb is a huge improvement but it is not for the faint of heart....it isn't a simple plug and play. I trimmed out the inner portion and rewelded it back in and plated the frame to allow easy installation of this carb, I know of a guy who I copied the settings etc for the carb and he didn't do anything at all to get it to fit....but he struggles hugely getting it in and out whenever he needs to do so. You can buy these carbs of fleabay for anywhere from$200 and up I lucked out and found mine for $178...then spent another $100 on multiple jets and choke plungers to make it the way I needed it to be. Still well worth the cost concidering what it does to our bikes. The other guy had his on a bone stock bike except the carb and a LEXX can, nothing else at all. It was so impressive I went after it with my fully modded engine....and it is the most effective mod performance wise you can do to your bike bar none! The gas mileage does suffer IF you use the carb to it's fullest...lol...It has a pumper on it also....and it does work and work well! If ridden sensibly it has the same size opening as our stock carb so you can get close to the same mileages out of it, but you won't....it is just too much fun to twist that throttle!
FCR-MX 39mm flatslide....search it....


The stock main jet is a 145 for those interested and I haven't gone up from it with my stock modded carb. Just the KLX needle and a 7/64ths slider hole and the pilot jet turned out to 2 1/4 turns roughly. If you buy the needle not in the kit, you also need the clip and brass collar it comes with in the kit separately from a dealer....it is a better choice to buy the kit. It comes with 3 or 4 main jets if you so choose to change them, the needle and clip and collar and also 8 allen head bolts to get rid of the philips head bolts that some have difficulty with. Not pushing mike's products but it is a good priced kit for what you get for the $$, just saying.

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post #7 of 9 Old 09-24-2012, 01:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willys View Post
I trimmed out the inner portion and rewelded it back in and plated the frame to allow easy installation of this carb
I'm very interested in what you have done here and really like your review of the performance gains but do not quite understand your statement above. Can you elaborate and possibly post some photos?
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post #8 of 9 Old 09-24-2012, 01:44 PM
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(in another thread since this is no where near a common mod, lol)

I had a pumper on my DRZ e with yosh 450cc kit. The bike made a stock DRZ feel like a total turd. 60mph on a dirt road, crack the throttle, BRAAAP, made the rear end get squirrly. It was a lot of fun when cruising along to search out the mud puddles, hit'm, crack the throttle, and shoot mud up to land on buddies.

But the KLR is my chill grandpa bike so no need for the pumper. She'll still loft the front in 1st or 2nd if I really want'r to.

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post #9 of 9 Old 09-24-2012, 02:03 PM
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When I was looking at the location this carb needed to be fitted into it is huge for such a small space allowed. You first need a .800" spacer to space the carb away from the top back edge of the starter. It's just that a spacer to go behind the rubber boot on the intake. Then you need to take the lip inside the airbox boot out with a dremel . That lip is there to stop us from sending our stock carbs too far into the airbox boot. The flatslide needs to get further in to be able to fit in this tight space. Now that we have done the basics you need to think about the stuctural space left to deal with. The underside of the frame's back right between the two down tubes is extremely close. Too close for me. Same goes for the righthand side down tube. I took my die grinder and hogged out all of this material....half of the down tube and a quarter of the under side of the main frame. I had a huge area to fit this carb in place and be able to work etc. I thn made new metal pieces to replace the missing parts of the tubes. They basically were formed to allow the carb to fit as if the frame was designed this way. I then welded these new pieces into the frame to close up the tubes once more. I then formed a second skin to help take the strain or stresses that the frame may see in normal use. It was to strengthen the original tube after me forming them. It was a simple job to form and weld new sections over the original tubes. If you didn't know what you were looking for you wouldn't see them.
Now after saying all of that....Greg the guy who did this first didn't do this and still managed to fit this carb. He said it took him hours to take the carb out, slide in a different jet and reinstall the carb.....I just do not have his patience.....if you do then you may be able to deal without modifying the frame.
Again after saying that....I think, if you were to cherry the inside section you wanted to change or crush in you wouldn't need to cut and weld to the extent I did. I'm a welder fitter as well as many other things, so it wasn't that big of a deal to me. After forming the tubes with extreme heat you could always form new skins or layers to be welded as I did to the outside of the modified tubes for strength that is IF you think it's needed to be done in the firstplace....I do if you are asking me.

Would I do it the same way next time, no...I would use heat and crush the tubes where I needed the space, then weld braces as described. It is much faster and less labour intensive. IMHO.

As I have said the new carb is huge compared to the original CV carb although it is only 1/2" longer from entrance to exit so to speak. So it will fit using the stock airbox as well as the .800" spacer. You only have to squeeze .300 of the length into the aibox boot and that is why you need to remove that step that is inside the boot. I will not go in otherwise.

The intake of the carb, on my particular carb as smaller than the airbox boot and had to be increased externally to get up to the airbox boot's inside diameter. I used an old leash soaked in JB Weld and formed a new step so to speak. It worked very well and is very strong. The exit or other end fits perfectly into our stock intake boot. The same size. I have seen different sized airbox ends from different carbs depending upon which bike they came off of. That is a trial and error issue that you will need to deal with depending upon what carb you buy. It doesn't affect the operation of the carb in any way...it has a huge opening to draw air from so it has to be better in a way perhaps.

You will also need to change a few of the jets to get it within the ball park setting so to speak....I have those written down somewhere. I still may need to find tune them a hair but so far it is running well without any fueling issues. You also need to change the needle to a specific one to get the best flow. Again that too is written down. When you get to the stage you need this info I'll post it up for your starting position to work from. It is a very complicated carb to work on jetting wise. Our CV carbs are like comparing the KLR to the GS1200 in technology.....a night and day difference.

I have pics somewhere and will post them once I find them....hope this helps

Willys
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