Gen 2 Safety Switch Bypass - Page 3 - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

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post #21 of 37 Old 04-12-2015, 05:38 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2008
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I have owned a 2008, 2009, 2010, and a 2015 KLR650.....the VERY first thing I do is bypass the sidestand/clutch safety switches. It is real easy to do on the Gen 2 KLR...
especially with the tutorial provided.
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post #22 of 37 Old 04-18-2015, 09:39 AM
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My bike will start in neutral kick stand down or up, will not start with clutch pulled in kick stand up not in neutral. This means clutch safety switch has gone bad? It is a 2014.5 do you think this would still be covered by the warranty? Only had 8 months 3600 miles.

2014.5 in White, Soloboxes, 22cent, 16t, extra turn signal lighting,crash bars.
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post #23 of 37 Old 04-18-2015, 04:25 PM Thread Starter
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Tsropes-

You can evaluate whether or not your switches are functioning with this:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Damocles View Post
Jim Sizemore, this file may provide a wiring diagram closer to a schematic than what you're looking at now (Chapter 17):

http://www.diagramasde.com/diagramas/otros2/Kawasaki+KLR+650+(1987-2003+clymer).pdf

This is the whole Clymer manual for Generation 1s; I saw no copyright protection warnings; AFAIK this is public domain.

Anyhow, the RED/BLACK wire from the CDI must "see" a ground for the bike to run; the ground can come from several paths.

The starting circuit relay can pick up a ground from either the starter lockout ("clutch safety") switch or the neutral swith.

Switching logic prevents engine operation with the bike in gear, clutch lever out, and sidestand down.

As to the starter relay connections, the great big one connects directly to the battery positive terminal; the small connection connects to the starter circuit relay. + 12 VDC on the latter (from the starter button) engages the starter relay, connecting its contacts and powering the starter motor.

Wasn't gonna do this, but . . . here's a matrix of safety switch scenarios, a partial chart (the "how it works" column is missing), from an Internet posting long ago and far away:



Wish I had done a better job of saving the info, but--maybe this will be of some use.

Tom [email protected]

“Neither of the two people in the room paid any attention to the way I came in, although only one of them was dead.” -Philip Marlowe

“'Why' and 'How' are words so important they cannot be too often used.” -Napoleon Bonaparte


Sting like a butterfly.
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post #24 of 37 Old 04-20-2015, 07:47 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 51
Made a jumper things work again will get into Kawasaki this week see if I can get a new switch. It's still under the year warranty.

2014.5 in White, Soloboxes, 22cent, 16t, extra turn signal lighting,crash bars.
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post #25 of 37 Old 09-18-2015, 12:49 AM
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I grew up riding in the back of dad's truck and up in the rear window of mom's car.

In the late 70's there were no safety switches and no liability paranoia from manufacturers.
You (I) had to actually look down at the kickstand, and either clutch it or look for the
green light on the panel. Haven't pole-vaulted in a left turn yet.

I've removed every safety switch on every bike that had one or more installed from
the factory. Even frankentractor. It starts in reverse with the blades engaged. LOL

It's about removing stuff that can fail, and replacing it with paying attention.


Ride 'em if ya got 'em, the weather is a changin' up here at the Indiana/ Michigan border,
Cheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeap

This is my son, with whom I am well pleased." ----God
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post #26 of 37 Old 08-21-2016, 08:39 AM
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As a new and Novice KLRista, I want to thank all who have contributed to this thread, and to the wrenching forum in general.

I got bit by this "Problem" yesterday, on a steep gravel road negotiating a tight turn with a truck mostly in my lane, I killed the bike in second gear

It wouldn't start in any gear with the side stand up and clutch pulled in.

After further testing today I determined that it will start in gear, with side stand up and clutch pulled in. Don't know what I was doing wrong yesterday.

Will still bypass the clutch and side stand switches.

From the Matrix above it seems that it should have?

I'm not averse to performing the two mods, clutch bypass and side stand bypass, but is there some other problem or is this simply the way it is before you do the bypasses?

The Only Dumb Question is the Unasked Question - Anonymous

Last edited by bigjohnsd; 08-21-2016 at 08:57 PM.
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post #27 of 37 Old 08-21-2016, 10:48 AM Thread Starter
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That's pretty much the way it is.

Two choices. Disassemble all the bypass switchery and trickery, clean it, reassemble and carry on. It will break again later but you can rinse, lather, repeat.

Disable it as described so that it can be re-enabled if Bernie gets elected some day. It won't be broken ever again, but you will have to assume personal responsibility for your own safety, like if Gary gets elected someday.

Tom

Tom [email protected]

“Neither of the two people in the room paid any attention to the way I came in, although only one of them was dead.” -Philip Marlowe

“'Why' and 'How' are words so important they cannot be too often used.” -Napoleon Bonaparte


Sting like a butterfly.
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post #28 of 37 Old 05-24-2018, 07:07 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: South of Charlotte, NC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Schmitz View Post
If you make up the little gizmo and carry that and a mini-fuse in your tool kit you can have a quick and easy trail side fix should your switches ever fail. Real easy on the Gen 2.

Then you'll neither get stranded nor have to chew your leg off. However, it takes all the drama out of either situation...

T
If we were in Piccadilly I would say, "Good Show ole chap, I say".
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post #29 of 37 Old 05-24-2018, 12:06 PM
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It has been so long now since I disabled mine, that I cannot now remember from what these safeguard switches were supposed to protect us.

Gettin' old.

Sent from my XT1254 using...uh, I forget.

"Chet from Chattanooga"
2009 KLR, blue
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post #30 of 37 Old 04-10-2019, 11:05 PM
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Hello I recently stripped my clutch perch and bought a new pro taper clutch perch/lever. Can this perch still be used even though it doesn’t have the slot for the saftey switch? If I bypass it what do I do with the saftey switch? Fairly new KLR owner here looking for help.
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