Gen 2 Safety Switch Bypass - Page 7 - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

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post #61 of 65 Old 11-18-2019, 03:31 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 61
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Schmitz View Post
I think I'm going to offer a Gen 2 bypass kit where all you need to do is unplug the connector and plug a proper connector in that has a jumper in it...
I thought of making one of those so that if I ever needed to go back to stock, I could just pull out the middle connector and reconnect the two stock connectors. Put I didn't want to go to the hassle of ordering the proper connector, figuring out a way to jump it and still have the connections fit together (my electrical expertise is next to nil). That said, I'd be interested in one of those should you go to the trouble.
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post #62 of 65 Old 11-18-2019, 03:36 PM
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Location: Seattle, WA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Norton 850 View Post
That got me thinking; I should offer a castration kit! It will comprise one ground lug suitable for 14-gauge insulated wire, 10 inches of wire and three inches of resin-core solder .Jason
I opted not to go this route because 1. I had already done the sidestand switch bypass and didn't feel like rendering that endeavor a waste of time, and 2. I didn't feel like taking off the fairing. But thanks anyway for taking the time to put together the instructs.

Last edited by Schoen; 11-18-2019 at 03:42 PM.
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post #63 of 65 Old 01-28-2020, 04:02 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Canada's Nortwest
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My 2017 has an odd behaviour when the side stand is deployed in neutral sometimes but not always the engine will start to run rough or sometimes it will quit.
It will crank over but will not restart until the side stand is retracted. Then everything is normal again. I am going to bypass the switch.
I was going to remove the wires from the switch and splice them together with a heat shrink crimp butt connector.
The switches, side stand and clutch only deactivate the starter as I understand. Why would the engine be effected?

Terry
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post #64 of 65 Old 01-28-2020, 08:17 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Alberta
Posts: 50
Quote:
Originally Posted by terry_g View Post
My 2017 has an odd behaviour when the side stand is deployed in neutral sometimes but not always the engine will start to run rough or sometimes it will quit.
It will crank over but will not restart until the side stand is retracted. Then everything is normal again. I am going to bypass the switch.
I was going to remove the wires from the switch and splice them together with a heat shrink crimp butt connector.
The switches, side stand and clutch only deactivate the starter as I understand. Why would the engine be effected?

Terry
If the side stand switch only deactivated the starter then it would not kill the engine when the bike is put in gear with the stand down which is what it is designed to do. The clutch switch is designed to prevent starting in gear without the clutch lever pulled.

Last edited by Klrian; 01-28-2020 at 08:22 AM. Reason: Spelling
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post #65 of 65 Old 05-20-2020, 09:38 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: Cardross, Victoria, Australia
Posts: 4
reconnecting the clutch safety switch

G'day,

I have a slightly different problem, I need to reconnect the safety switches to pass a roadworthy inspection. The previous owner obviously did the safety switch mod.
I have fitted the sidestand safety switch, I removed the clutch safety switch and it has the small actuating "rod" broken off, no wires and no plug. I can jerry up something just to pass the roadworthy. I removed the fairing and located the diode block. I was unable to find any vacant plug down there. I peeled the black tape off the wires that attach to the block, there's short loops blu/red and blk/red wires come out and return into the plug at two separate spaces on the front of the plug when it's fitted into the small bracket. There's a second wire from where each of these short loops originated that disappears into the main loom.

My series of questions are,
are these two wires supposed to just loop in the plug? they look "factory"
if not do I connect some wires to them and then to the clutch switch?
if they are to remain looped where do I connect the wires from the clutch switch? I have peeled the protective tape cover off the group of wires back to the main loom, there's no wires that have been cut anywhere along that section.

thanks
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