Exhaust Mod Update - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

 
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post #1 of 8 Old 10-26-2012, 09:09 PM Thread Starter
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Exhaust Mod Update

You may remember me whining and crying over the nasty sound of the stock KLR exhaust. When I did the surgery and cut a 2 1/8" hole and pulled out the guts it sounded better but had a sharp bark to it on acceleration. Didn't like that either but once it's done it's done. Now for a spark arrestor. What ?? 30 bucks, more or less ?? Wait'll payday, Lar.

But wait......! ! !



While wandering down the aisle of Albertson's yesterday a little item caught my eye. (please don't laugh - I'm sensitive) It's a chromed steel sink drain catcher - and the huge price of $2.49. (may have been $2.99, but that's OK)

It's 2" diameter. Wish I'd known before I cut - would've been easy to move up a step or 2. Anyway, it's done and to my eye doesn't look too bad. Diameter is just right.

This shot is after about 20 miles of highway and dirt road. The bonus ?? That neat little gadget took the bark out of the exhaust note and it really sounds good. Mellow and smooth and no doubt it's a motorcycle....thumpety thumpety.......

...........Happy Lar.

Last edited by biglar; 10-26-2012 at 09:11 PM.
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post #2 of 8 Old 10-26-2012, 10:58 PM
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How's she riding now Lar? Figure out the air/fuel ratio?
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post #3 of 8 Old 10-26-2012, 11:21 PM Thread Starter
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How's she riding now Lar? Figure out the air/fuel ratio?
Funny you should mention that.

I "think" I have the idle mixture idea OK - adjust the little screw under the carb, but for higher speeds I've always run it down a highway at steady speed for a few miles, then pull in clutch, kill engine, coast to a stop and pull a plug to check the color.

Hmmm......?? That doesn't sound too practical after accessing the plug in this thing one time......so what indicators do you use ??

I took it for about 8 miles down a local dirt road that's in pretty good shape and I can see that it's going to take a lot of getting used to. Why do they make the bloody things so high ?? (I know why, just blowing steam) I feel like I'm teetering on a pogo stick way up there, even with the 2" dropped seat and almost lost it several times. I think I'm going to go ahead and do the research on proper ways, then lower the suspension 1".
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post #4 of 8 Old 10-27-2012, 12:05 AM
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The sink drain catcher/spark arrestor is genius. Good find! If it didn't become discolored after those 20 miles of riding, I doubt it will. Hope the screen lasts. The screen that came with my eBay ATV muffler tip was cheap, but it's still in there. I would imagine the screen on that drain catcher is even more robust so it should last for a long time. Way to improvise and save some $!



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post #5 of 8 Old 10-27-2012, 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by biglar View Post
Funny you should mention that.

1. I "think" I have the idle mixture idea OK - adjust the little screw under the carb, but for higher speeds I've always run it down a highway at steady speed for a few miles, then pull in clutch, kill engine, coast to a stop and pull a plug to check the color.

Hmmm......?? That doesn't sound too practical after accessing the plug in this thing one time......so what indicators do you use ??

2. I took it for about 8 miles down a local dirt road that's in pretty good shape and I can see that it's going to take a lot of getting used to. Why do they make the bloody things so high ?? (I know why, just blowing steam) I feel like I'm teetering on a pogo stick way up there, even with the 2" dropped seat and almost lost it several times. I think I'm going to go ahead and do the research on proper ways, then lower the suspension 1".
1. I don't pull all the technical tools out, I've equipped my garage well but not with the high tech stuff... Yet. I use the same technique that Willys does: seat of the pants. I don't drive unless I have to take my kids somewhere so i am almost always on my bike and "feeling" it out. A lot of times I will ride without gloves to better feel the throttle, see if it sticks, hesitates, etc. I have a rather long commute for work and am constantly varying take offs, rpms, gears, at varying speeds to see if I have hesitation or other issues, especially after I make changes. If I feel differences I start doing my research to see if I'm being overly OCD or to eliminate possible problems. Scientific, not really, but I was taught wrenching by my father working on his 73 shovel (miss those days) He was self taught and didn't trust a lot of mechanics. Did or does stuff always work out as planned, no, but then you change it back and start over, but I digress. I check the plug every couple months when I do a tune up, once you get used to it you can strip the bike to frame in 15 minutes. The KLR has wide specs, you just need to be close with things thankfully. It's not a high tuned sport bike, or close spec Harley. Make changes, ride, observe, troubleshoot if need be. Has worked for me, Kawi doesn't touch my bike.

2. I forgot what kind of bike you came off of, but there is a recent thread about gravel riding on the forum that gives some tips that would probably work for dirt. I came off sports, my riding style made dirt interesting... Very fun though. I actually use a 130/90 17R and a 3inch front and with that set up have found I can dip the bike almost as far as my sport on street, on the one dirt road I have ridden since changing tires I found it let me "float" a little better, most likely my own confidence level with my set up though.

Sorry if I rambled. Hope something in there may be useful for you.

Mike
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post #6 of 8 Old 10-27-2012, 06:45 PM
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We are getting somewhat off track when someone thinks the way I do....don't ya think.....lol....I too am constantly thinking about the performance or my bike as it's set up at that time, I wonder if and why it is doing what it is and what I can possibly do to make it slightly better. Sure beats thinking about something less interesting......like what's for breakfast the next morning.....I always eat the same thing.....Mini-wheats.....every day...period.....so I have plenty of time to think about tuning.....lol.

You mention, feeling the throttle with bare hands.....wait until you swap out the CV carb to a Flatslide!!! The responce is instantaneous! No lag, no hesitation, nothing but a very responsive engine.....especially once you have gone as far as I have.

But I'm relying on my butt dyno to feel how many horsies I have and I count close to 50.....some may not agree....but my butt says yes!


Now.....back to our regularly schedualed program......

Willys
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post #7 of 8 Old 10-27-2012, 10:13 PM
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We are getting somewhat off track when someone thinks the way I do....don't ya think.....lol....


Now.....back to our regularly schedualed program......
Sorry, one last hijack... My thoughts are there is book learning and learning through the school of hard knocks. Both are great and learning either way should always be strived for. When I hire an investigator though, I want to know they have been in the trenches and will pick someone that has learned the hard way, experienced failures and learned from them, over someone who just learned through books and has yet to apply it. Just my thoughts.

Sorry if went off track Lars, happens sometimes. Back to our thread...
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post #8 of 8 Old 10-28-2012, 08:09 AM
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IMHO, for those who want to get a bit more flow but don't want to get the loud sound that comes with this mod, there is a differnt way to achieve almost the same thing.
First you must find the indented area directly next to the outlet hole of the exhaust, pretty simple right....? lol.
Second, you need to get a 1/8th drill bit and drill in this area and not past it, all the way around. Then get a small chisel and hit the remaining joining links between each hole. Hopefully you drilled each hole very close to the last one to make this step easier.
Third, you need to find a steel bar that will fit into the exhaust and also stick far enough out of it after it bottoms out deep inside the exhaust to be able to get a good strong hold of it. Now for the hardest part.......wiggle this bar around so that the tube which it is inside comes loose and free of the 3 small spot welds deep inside the can.
Forth, once you are sure it's free and is easily rattling around you need to get it out of the can. Sometimes this can be a bit tricky depending upon the jagged bits still sticking out. Get the tube out.
Fifth, once this tube is out get a large file or die grinder and clean off the sharp edges inside the opening.
Sixth, now you need to get a short piece of muffler pipe that is very close to the size of the hole you have made and angle it away from the rear fender so that the hot gasses don't melt or discolour the fender. Now weld it onto the can or get someone who has a welder do this for you.

Seventh, clean the job up with some BBQ paint.....job finished.

This way will get rid of the tweety tube and just the tweety tube. It won't be seriously loud like the other hole saw method which takes out the whole last baffle system of the muffler making it very loud. It gives the muffler better flow and a better deeper sound. A win win in my books.
It has been called the "Willys Exhaust Mod" just to differenciate between the two exhaust mods.......not that I need the ego stroking but...it doesn't hurt.....lol.

Oh...this way still leaves the spark arrester intact inside your exhaust.....another vote for doing it this way.

Hope this helps those who don't want the loud exhaust but want to get rid of the tweety sound......

Willys
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