Swingarm Lube - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

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Old 10-31-2012, 08:54 AM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: NW MO
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Swingarm Lube

Mine is overdue and on the slate for completion this Winter. I would appreciate any tips/tricks/info that anybody who has done this job before would like to share. Not to be completely selfish, hoping only to make my life easier by learning from your personal travails, hardships and mistakes, but also thought maybe this could become a compendium of swingarm-lube advice condensed into one thread with a simple title that might show up under a site Search if anybody's looking for guidance in the future. I didn't see it covered in the Common Mods and Issues thread.

Interested to learn:

1. What is the best way to remove the bolt, both application of physical force and what, if any, kind of pre-soaking/corrosion-loosening solvents to possibly use to try to make removal easier?

2. What is the preferred product to re-lube/preserve the bolt upon reassembly?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated or, in the words of Emil Faber, "Knowledge Is Good."



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Old 10-31-2012, 09:06 AM
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Answer

I like a product called PB Blaster for my presoak, it works pretty well for me. I then use my favorit heel bar and pound it out. That heel bar is kind of pointed on the end and sets in the middle of that bolt just right. When the bolt comes out the heel bar stays in the hole and its smaller than the bolt. I spray a bunch of spray grease around the heel bar. After that I pull the heel bar back a couple of inches and pack the then open on one end hole with a good molly grease. I then tap the bolt back in place and that kind of forces all that grease it to the spaces that neede it. Dont forget anti seize is not a grease and should not get on bearings. Use lots of a good quality grease and do the job yearly on the main bolt. It will take you ten minutes and save you the hell of it seizing in the back of the motor. If you pull the heel bar out when the bolt comes out the swing arm will fall down, not a major deal but a pain in the butt. That, is how I do it myself and it works for me..

Last edited by moriver; 10-31-2012 at 10:26 AM.
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Old 10-31-2012, 09:45 AM
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+1 on the PB Blaster. Start applying it 24-48 hours prior.

I wouldn't take out the bolt with the swing arm still attached to the linkage. Might as well clean and grease that at the same time.

Anti-seize is a better option than grease for the swingarm bolt (grease on the bearings of course) IMHO. The bolt siezes because it's steel and the motor housing is alluminum.

No eye has seen, no ear has heard, no mind has conceived what God has prepared for those who love him. 1 Cor 2:9
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Old 10-31-2012, 10:45 AM
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Old 10-31-2012, 11:02 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by moriver View Post
Good reference, moriver. Thanks! I kind of forgot about that site.



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Old 10-31-2012, 02:12 PM
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I've done more than my fair share of these nasty things it seems.
The worst one took me the better part of 2 hours to get the bolt out of the rusty hole it lives in. The easiest was just light pressure from my finger!!!

I dismantle the entire rear swingarm and suspension components and grease the entire system from one end to the other. Why not? You are that far into it you may as well do the job right IMHO.

Once you have the wheel, brakes, chain, sprocket, linkages or dog bones out of the way you can go after the rear shock, shock pivot. You need to loosen one engine mount bolt that lives near the swingarm bolt and is a 14 mm nut and bolt. Don't forget to retorque it when you are finished. If you don't loosen this bolt, you will have a huge issue trying to get the shock pivot out of the frame as this bolt pinches the frame together and also pinches this pivot at the same time.
I use a solid brass punch to gently or violently beat, it's their choice as to how much pressure get delivered to the two bolts that need removing. Once out, I remove the seals, check them for damage, if the bearings are in good condition I leave them inplace. I clean the whole system within an inch of it's life. I install the old seals if still usable or new ones.Then apply generous helpings of marine grade grease to all bearings and all seals etc. I also fill the frame cavity with the same grease to try and stop the same corrosion from happening again. Then I take each bolt and run it through the bench wire wheel to get it back to the way it should be, clean and shinny. I then coat the bolts with same grease, reinstall the whole assembly but don't attach nuts yet, I clean the threads off on all bolts with accetone and apply some of the good blue loctite to each thread and retorque to spec. Then finish assembling the rest of the system and bingo bango....job's done.
Don't forget that rear lower engine bolt......clean and retorque with blue.

Hope this helps....a very simple explanation......there are a few smaller items left out as I'm sure you will figure them out as you go....just simple things.

The hardest thing to do is to not beat the daylights out of that stuck bolt with a steel punch so you don't ruin the threads up so much you need to replace it after you get it out because it's mushroomed. Use a good brass punch and a heavy hammer.....tapping it with a small hammer will get you nowhere!

I also don't bother with prelubes etc....I find that if you turn the bolt in the case or frame it will move after it gets a few good shock blows from a large hammer.

I will admit to ruining one of my bolts the first time I changed mine....I used an impact hammer and beat the daylights out of the threads in a matter of seconds! Just don't copy my mistake and take your time if you need to get the big hammer out. A few well placed blows are better than a thousand ill placed hits from an impact hammer.

Just seaying.............

Willys
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Old 10-31-2012, 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by willys View Post
IYou need to loosen one engine mount bolt that lives near the swingarm bolt and is a 14 mm nut and bolt. Don't forget to retorque it when you are finished.
Do you happen to know what the torque on this bolt is? I'm having a helluva time finding it.
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Old 10-31-2012, 05:13 PM
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Beej -

32ft-lbs.

T

p.s. - How's your doo doing now that it's done?

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Old 10-31-2012, 05:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom Schmitz View Post
32ft-lbs.
Awesome, thanks!

Quote:
p.s. - How's your doo doing now that it's done?
Seems to be thumping right along, as always! Since the old one wasn't damaged in any way and I'd been doing the adjustment on schedule, I'm not noticing much difference. But it's good peace of mind knowing it's in there, that's for sure. I think I've put maybe 500 miles on since then. I visited my folks and got to tear around the Sierra foothills for about 50 miles of dirt... no complaints from either me or the bike!
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Old 10-31-2012, 08:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spec View Post
+1 on the PB Blaster. Start applying it 24-48 hours prior.

I wouldn't take out the bolt with the swing arm still attached to the linkage. Might as well clean and grease that at the same time.

Anti-seize is a better option than grease for the swingarm bolt (grease on the bearings of course) IMHO. The bolt siezes because it's steel and the motor housing is alluminum.

Good link on the antiseize Spec!
Be sure to NOT use NICKEL based antiseize on aluminum parts. The galvanic reaction between nickel based antiseize and aluminum parts can leave them seized in a very short time. Copper based seems OK on aluminum but ZINC based are recommended.
Regards....justjeff
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