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Swingarm Lube

20K views 29 replies 13 participants last post by  beejjorgensen 
#1 ·
Mine is overdue and on the slate for completion this Winter. I would appreciate any tips/tricks/info that anybody who has done this job before would like to share. Not to be completely selfish, hoping only to make my life easier by learning from your personal travails, hardships and mistakes, but also thought maybe this could become a compendium of swingarm-lube advice condensed into one thread with a simple title that might show up under a site Search if anybody's looking for guidance in the future. I didn't see it covered in the Common Mods and Issues thread.

Interested to learn:

1. What is the best way to remove the bolt, both application of physical force and what, if any, kind of pre-soaking/corrosion-loosening solvents to possibly use to try to make removal easier?

2. What is the preferred product to re-lube/preserve the bolt upon reassembly?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated or, in the words of Emil Faber, "Knowledge Is Good."
 
#2 · (Edited)
Answer

I like a product called PB Blaster for my presoak, it works pretty well for me. I then use my favorit heel bar and pound it out. That heel bar is kind of pointed on the end and sets in the middle of that bolt just right. When the bolt comes out the heel bar stays in the hole and its smaller than the bolt. I spray a bunch of spray grease around the heel bar. After that I pull the heel bar back a couple of inches and pack the then open on one end hole with a good molly grease. I then tap the bolt back in place and that kind of forces all that grease it to the spaces that neede it. Dont forget anti seize is not a grease and should not get on bearings. Use lots of a good quality grease and do the job yearly on the main bolt. It will take you ten minutes and save you the hell of it seizing in the back of the motor. If you pull the heel bar out when the bolt comes out the swing arm will fall down, not a major deal but a pain in the butt. That, is how I do it myself and it works for me..
 
#3 ·
+1 on the PB Blaster. Start applying it 24-48 hours prior.

I wouldn't take out the bolt with the swing arm still attached to the linkage. Might as well clean and grease that at the same time.

Anti-seize is a better option than grease for the swingarm bolt (grease on the bearings of course) IMHO. The bolt siezes because it's steel and the motor housing is alluminum.
 
#10 ·
Good link on the antiseize Spec!
Be sure to NOT use NICKEL based antiseize on aluminum parts. The galvanic reaction between nickel based antiseize and aluminum parts can leave them seized in a very short time. Copper based seems OK on aluminum but ZINC based are recommended.
Regards....justjeff
 
#6 ·
I've done more than my fair share of these nasty things it seems.
The worst one took me the better part of 2 hours to get the bolt out of the rusty hole it lives in. The easiest was just light pressure from my finger!!!

I dismantle the entire rear swingarm and suspension components and grease the entire system from one end to the other. Why not? You are that far into it you may as well do the job right IMHO.

Once you have the wheel, brakes, chain, sprocket, linkages or dog bones out of the way you can go after the rear shock, shock pivot. You need to loosen one engine mount bolt that lives near the swingarm bolt and is a 14 mm nut and bolt. Don't forget to retorque it when you are finished. If you don't loosen this bolt, you will have a huge issue trying to get the shock pivot out of the frame as this bolt pinches the frame together and also pinches this pivot at the same time.
I use a solid brass punch to gently or violently beat, it's their choice as to how much pressure get delivered to the two bolts that need removing. Once out, I remove the seals, check them for damage, if the bearings are in good condition I leave them inplace. I clean the whole system within an inch of it's life. I install the old seals if still usable or new ones.Then apply generous helpings of marine grade grease to all bearings and all seals etc. I also fill the frame cavity with the same grease to try and stop the same corrosion from happening again. Then I take each bolt and run it through the bench wire wheel to get it back to the way it should be, clean and shinny. I then coat the bolts with same grease, reinstall the whole assembly but don't attach nuts yet, I clean the threads off on all bolts with accetone and apply some of the good blue loctite to each thread and retorque to spec. Then finish assembling the rest of the system and bingo bango....job's done.
Don't forget that rear lower engine bolt......clean and retorque with blue.

Hope this helps....a very simple explanation......there are a few smaller items left out as I'm sure you will figure them out as you go....just simple things.

The hardest thing to do is to not beat the daylights out of that stuck bolt with a steel punch so you don't ruin the threads up so much you need to replace it after you get it out because it's mushroomed. Use a good brass punch and a heavy hammer.....tapping it with a small hammer will get you nowhere!

I also don't bother with prelubes etc....I find that if you turn the bolt in the case or frame it will move after it gets a few good shock blows from a large hammer.

I will admit to ruining one of my bolts the first time I changed mine....I used an impact hammer and beat the daylights out of the threads in a matter of seconds! Just don't copy my mistake and take your time if you need to get the big hammer out. A few well placed blows are better than a thousand ill placed hits from an impact hammer.

Just seaying.....:t1202:........:13:
 
#9 ·
32ft-lbs.
Awesome, thanks!

p.s. - How's your doo doing now that it's done?
Seems to be thumping right along, as always! Since the old one wasn't damaged in any way and I'd been doing the adjustment on schedule, I'm not noticing much difference. But it's good peace of mind knowing it's in there, that's for sure. I think I've put maybe 500 miles on since then. I visited my folks and got to tear around the Sierra foothills for about 50 miles of dirt... no complaints from either me or the bike! :)
 
#13 ·
Somehow the idea of tearing the whole thing apart every time just doesn't appeal to me a whole lot. I ran across Watt-man's site recently and read his how-to on installing zerk fittings on rear suspension components.

I've already bought the zerks and when we have a really ugly day I'll tear it apart and do it. Today was nasty and I spent the afternoon installing my new Thermo-bob.

............Lar.
 
#14 ·
BigLar,

Let us know how it goes please. I know you've been tinkering a bit. I am debating the zerks myself when I go on vaca before Christmas. I use my bike as a commuter so I try not to pull it down for too long at a time. Figured I gotta do it, may as well make it easier after the first time. Regret to say it is seriously overdue on my bike... One of the only areas I've neglected as I never really think about it. I'll be looking forward to hearing from you how it goes. If I get to it first I'll post and let ya know what I ran into.
 
#15 ·
I'll step in once again...lol....I have zerked my swing arm. I think I did it 3 or 4 years ago. Back then it was the thing to do and in some cases still is. I have had my swing arm off many times since just to see.....it is always fully greased. I have only greased it through the zerks maybe 3 times, maybe. I would also guess that I have put on 60,000 kms since zerking it.
IMHO.....and that is all it is....you don't need to do this unless you use your KLR as a off road play toy. Then I would say definately go for it. But if all you do is like me 95% of my riding on the street, I wouldn't waste my time doing it again. It takes at most a few hours to remove and inspect and regrease your swing arm....well that is IF the bolts aren't already seized inside the bearing races. Which it will be if you haven't done it at all on a bike that see's either winter salt conditions or muddy water etc.

The zerking is straight forward and a bit fiddly to get the holes in the correct locations. It can also be done IF you are extremely carefull without removing the seals and bearings. That is if they are serviceable too.

The amount of time it will take you to do this job is like three swing arm dismantlings.....just saying.

Does it work.....yes it does...is it worth it for a bike on the street ...imho....no

Yes for a bike used regularly off road for sure!

Hope this helps......:13:
 
#19 ·
The new name seems to be "Zerks". but around here they've always been called "Grease fittings". Never the less, would'nt it be a good idea to drill/ tap & install a few while you have it down that far? I've always put grease fittings in places that needed to be greased, so as to keep from having to tear it down that far again! I know this is possible, and should have came on the joints where the bearings are. It just makes sense. If it moves, it's gonna wear. Since Im down that far ( Wheel off for bearing replacement ), I'm going to go ahead and grease all the pivot joints/ bearings and try and figure out exactly where to place the fittings. I really like the bike, and aside from readjusting the carb ( way to lean ), I'm leaving it original as possible. Well, except for lowering it about 1.75 inches. And I mostly ride on backroad blacktop. I like leaning into those curves! Anyway has anyone done this before? Just wondering before I get myself into a mess! Thanks! And May God bless you!
 
#21 ·
And I mostly ride on backroad blacktop. I like leaning into those curves! Anyway has anyone done this before? Just wondering before I get myself into a mess! Thanks! And May God bless you![/QUOTE]

I can't believe it - I've taken pictures of everything on the bike, I'm a pro photographer and take pictures - lots of them - of everything........and didn't take any of the zerk installation. Incidentally, I've been wrenching for most of my 70 years and have always called them zerks, as did my dad before me.

Go to Watt Man's site and look at his page on installing zerks. I would've sworn I talked about this on one thread or another and can't find it, but anyway, he details exactly what to do and it all works. I marked for my zerks with a felt tip pen before I started and it was invaluable during the process.

What I didn't think of was the vents for the grease to come out of. I just made sure mine were opposite the zerks and drilled 'em. When I had it all together and went to grease it.....couldn't see some of the vents. Keep it in mind.

I realize from another comment that this "probably" won't be necessary, but I sure like the feeling of confidence this little job gave me. I "know" those things are full of grease when I pump it in and it starts coming out the vent.

Drill and tap a test hole in scrap first and screw in a zerk. I found - too late - that my tap is a "fat" 6mm and the zerk threads are a skinny 6mm - and the zerks barely hold. Whenever I pull that thing apart again, I'm going to go a bit larger and try ¼-20 zerks and only tap part way so that they're tight in the holes.

Dammit, I KNow I talked about this at length somewhere but can't find the thread. Can anyone help ??

Long as you've got it apart, why not do it ??

Thanks................Lar.
 
#22 ·
#23 ·
I think I'll pass on the installation of zerks. I'd probably just mess something up and don't ever really ride in any standing water aside from the occasional mudhole. Kudos to those who take on the grease fittings project but it ain't my cup of tea.

Getting ready to tear my rear end apart as soon as my wife makes room by moving all the folding tables she's got set up to do holiday crafts on.

I called Top Gun today and they recommended when I put it back together to dispense with the raising links. They seemed familiar with the links and I have no reason to doubt their advice so I'll go back to the stock links.

Only about a predicted business week turnaround on a spring install and shock rebuild. Not bad.
 
#24 ·
As soon as I scarf down my lunch, I'm starting the build up of my bike.....triples and swing arm are first on the menu....then subframe.....possibly engine....depending upon how the rest comes along. I'm in no rush.....rushing equals scratches on my new paint work!!! Augh!!!!!!:13:
 
#26 ·
My lucky day, I guess. Swingarm pivot bolt slid right out like it was nothing, but it's only been in there about 4 years. Thought I'd give it a try without a pre-soak and could tell as soon as I started turning the bolt head it was going to come right out. Bearings contain traces of some kind of lubricant but that's about it. Glad I took it apart.
 
#28 ·
Well, engine's in, subframe on, forks on, front wheel temporarily on, fork brace on, swing arm on, front fairing stay cleaned and painted ready to go back on and now I'm knee deep in wires!!! Cut the entire stock harness away from any old additional wiring and have cleaned up all the years of crap on it, ready to start dealing with connector inspection and cleaning......I did find one prong on one of my headlights snapped off......wonder how long that has been like that! I never use high beam any more, it's too strong!!!!
Place the new stock alluminium rad in place and now thinking about how to fit secondary rightside rad......this is why the fairings etc has to be in place beforehand......because I know if I just fit it and then think fairing it will sure as hell interfer somewhere!

I hate cleaning mundain crap like wiring etc!!!!....augh!!!...:13:
 
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