Switched source for Aux power - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
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post #1 of 27 Old 11-17-2012, 05:23 PM Thread Starter
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Switched source for Aux power

I am busy installing a power cable for my GPS. I would like to install it as a switched circuit. Is there a switched source close to the battery that I can tap into to do this?
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post #2 of 27 Old 11-17-2012, 05:44 PM
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There isn't that I know of.

I run my GPS off of the back of the instrument cluster, using the power to the instrument lights. A GPS draws so little power that it will work fine.

It's the red wire. Ground is down and to the right.


T

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post #3 of 27 Old 11-18-2012, 02:47 PM
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Check out article on "distribution block/power relay" at canyonchasers.net

Takes all the confusion out of aux. power bar & doesn't compromise the factory wiring behind the KLR dash.

Phil
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post #4 of 27 Old 11-20-2012, 07:08 AM
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It took me a while to find that article. Here's a link
http://canyonchasers.net/shop/generic/relay.php

God Bless,

Cliff

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1 John 4:9-11
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post #5 of 27 Old 11-20-2012, 09:03 AM
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On my 2003 KLR there is an unused set of wires behind the headlight. It is fused to the 10A under the seat and is switched on and off with the key so you don't have to worry about leaving it on and draining your battery. I connected a 12V water proof socket to it and it's great for running GPS, Cell Phone etc., but it can't run my mini "SLIME" air compressor. Blows the fuse. I have to wire another one direct to the battery for that.
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post #6 of 27 Old 11-20-2012, 10:00 AM
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Thaylin -

That's the "city lights" circuit that the Gen 1 bikes had. It was designed to run a small pair of maybe 15 watt running lights.

It's a very useful circuit for running switched stuff, but it won't provide much current. If you want to have a high-current switched circuit, you can use the city light leads as the relay trigger. Just use Cliffmeiste2000r's link above and run the blue wire to the city lights.

I wish they hadn't done away with that circuit on the Gen 2 bikes.

While we're talking this stuff, I'd like to put in a kudo for Eastern Beaver's PC-8 fused distribution block. If you're interested in a very clean set up for switched and unswitched power options, check it out here. No association except as a very satisfied customer.

T

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“Neither of the two people in the room paid any attention to the way I came in, although only one of them was dead.” -Philip Marlowe

“'Why' and 'How' are words so important they cannot be too often used.” -Napoleon Bonaparte


Sting like a butterfly.

Last edited by Tom Schmitz; 11-20-2012 at 10:11 AM.
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post #7 of 27 Old 11-20-2012, 10:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phila1114 View Post
... doesn't compromise the factory wiring behind the KLR dash.

Phil
Phil -

"Compromise" is a bad connotation. To me, it implies that the factory wiring was cut and spliced or degraded in some other way.

In the photo above a new wire with a separate ring connector is added to a factory connection point.

That's the same as adding a power lead to the positive terminal of the battery, which most people would not consider as compromising the factory wiring.

T

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“Neither of the two people in the room paid any attention to the way I came in, although only one of them was dead.” -Philip Marlowe

“'Why' and 'How' are words so important they cannot be too often used.” -Napoleon Bonaparte


Sting like a butterfly.
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post #8 of 27 Old 11-20-2012, 02:03 PM Thread Starter
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So will it be bad if I use a Posi tap to tap into the license plate light or tail light and use their power instead of doing the whole relay thing? Or even splicing it into the fuze box?
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post #9 of 27 Old 11-20-2012, 02:36 PM
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Tom,
Good point, thanks. Phil
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post #10 of 27 Old 11-20-2012, 02:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by massklr View Post
So will it be bad if I use a Posi tap to tap into the license plate light or tail light and use their power instead of doing the whole relay thing? Or even splicing it into the fuze box?
massklr-

For a GPS, using the typical


box, the current draw is so small that tapping into an existing circuit is no problem.

If your draw will be significant, such as for heated grips or clothing, the best route is some sort of relayed distribution box, like the PC-8 or FuzeBlock. I don't know how much longer FuzeBlocks will be available, as the owner died. FuzeBlocks are neat because they have a relay built in to them.

My preference is always to connect to a factory connection point, but the PosiTap connectors are pretty good. I had no choice on my BMW but to use them and was satisfied.

Those 'squish and fold' connectors are something I don't like. I once threatened to tear a U-Haul guy's arm off and beat him to death with it when he tried to use those on my truck. And all the while, there was a complete trailer towing harness right in front of him...

T

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“Neither of the two people in the room paid any attention to the way I came in, although only one of them was dead.” -Philip Marlowe

“'Why' and 'How' are words so important they cannot be too often used.” -Napoleon Bonaparte


Sting like a butterfly.

Last edited by Tom Schmitz; 11-20-2012 at 03:02 PM.
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