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Pannier project

25K views 62 replies 19 participants last post by  justjeff 
#1 · (Edited)
OK, I'm starting a long term project for the KLR, or more of a feasibility study.
Goal = Hard case panniers, cheap.

Background, I like to do a lot of off the beaten track (don’t we all) riding and camping. And have the 2008 setup with Wolfman Explorer Lite tank bag, First Gear soft side bags that have been modified to bolt on to my Wolfman side racks, a new Christmas present, a Wolfman Ridgeline tail bag.



For some odd reason, or peer pressure, I seem to want hard panniers even though I have talked myself out of them multiple times. I guess I would just like to try a trip or two with them to see how they work out.
On that note, the cheap part. Ammo cans seem to be the answer in that department. I went out and bought two 20MM cans at a surplus store for $29 each and started planning things out. But at 19.8 pounds each, I thought I could lighten the load the burrow has to carry.

Stage one- lighten the load.



The latches are designed to hold ammo in place, not camping gear and clothes. They had to go, along with one side of the diagonal rail support. I have a set of spot weld drills and started with the rail.



Shaved the end handles off the boxes, and then started on the lid ends.



I did have a little problem and tore open four holes in the end that I had to weld up and grind down again.
So with about an hour and a half of drilling/grinding/welding/grinding of my own labor, I now have one “clean” box that shed about four pounds.



I have looked up some twist latches that will work at around $8 each for stainless steel, but I’m wondering if the finished product will be close to what I want.
Any Ideas out there?
Or should I just find some Happy Trail Tetons and bite the bullet?
The Tetons are about the same size, and weigh around 9.5 pounds. I'm still about double that and have no latches or hardware yet.
 
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#2 ·
Cool project, if you can coat them to match or be close the the OD green (or coat the entire can black/another color), it'd look slick.

While part of me is a little sad you are destroying some cool ammo cans, I see the point of your project, and I think it's still smarter to spend the time on the cans rather than the high cost of Tetons.
 
#3 · (Edited)
My only advice (opinion) on panniers for any off road excursions is to go with soft bags whether they be panniers which require a rack or a some kind of one piece soft bag like Giant Loop's Great Basin which requires nothing more than passenger pegs. I'm going with the latter because Atomic-Moto has them on sale right now.

My thinking is from experience; when you're slowly "paddling" your bike with your feet through deep sand, rock sections or a steep climb, inevitably a foot will get sucked under a hard bag and you'll swear your leg has been broken. After several close calls, lots of swearing and rubbing out the bruised calf, I swear I'll never use hard bags off road again. Food for thought.
-Crazymike
 
#5 ·
My only advice (opinion) on panniers for any off road excursions is to go with soft bags wether they be panniers which require a rack or a sone kind of one peoce sodt bag like Giant Loop's Great Basin which requires nothing more than passenger pegs. I'm going with the latter because Atomic-Moto has them on sale right now.

My training is from experience; when you're slowly "paddling" your bike with your feet through deep sand, rock sections or a steep climb, inevitably a foot will get sucked under a hard bag and you'll swear your leg has been broken. After several close calls, lots of swearing and rubbing out the bruised calf, I swear I'll never use hard bags off road again. Food for thought.
-Crazymike
That's been my thought exactly. I rode my buddies 1200 GS with Jesse Luggage on it and pinned my calf just turning in a parking lot.
I might have some light weight cans for sale if this doesn't pan out like I want it to.
 
#4 ·
I like the ammo can panniers! I think your on the right track by lightening them where you can. I wanted to go with the ammo cans or mermites, but in my area they just cant be bought or sourced economically.

The panniers I bought have a twist to tighten latching system with a padlock loop on them, are you going for something like that?
 
#7 · (Edited)
Had my soft bags on the other day hauling stuff to work and stopped at the store for some goodies. Came out and a Volvo pulled in next to me VERY close.
Thru my leg up over the bike and kicked the soft bag in the process with my shin.

Had that been an ammo can............... :46:

Time is also starting to dictate that this project might turn into some really nice locklable tool boxes for my trailer.

Opinions?
 
#9 ·
Hard panniers and soft ones both have their places... If your doing a lot of off roading with rough/uneven terrain and camping out I would say go for the soft bags. You already have them so there's no added expense or install either.

But, if your mostly riding on the road (highway or gravel) and don't have as many possibilities to dab a foot and get your leg caught the hard panniers are very useful. The larger ones will hold more than soft panniers and they're lockable for when you stop in towns or stay over in a hotel. No need to take them off the bike and lug them around with you like soft bags.

So, what you choose depends on your primary usage.

Plus, I agree with klr4evr, I would have kicked the Volvo! :animal0019:
 
#10 ·
One should always have at least one valve cap that has a core removal tool.

Kicking a car may hurt your toe.

Always use the right tool for the job.

Your valve core removal tool.

T

p.s. I'm a soft bag guy.
 
#15 ·
Love the Giant Loop stuff! Almost pulled the trigger on the Great Basin a couple of times... Only thing that made me change my mind is that I think the Great Basin negates hauling a passenger? Not positive on that though, so please don't quote me. Extremely well built bags!
 
#16 · (Edited)
Nothing wrong at all with wearing a backpack, you can get those ones with a hydration system as well to keep you hydrated. Only negative I can see with a backpack is that if you were riding some rough off road stuff, any heavy items might have a tendency to bang you on the back. For basic commuter running with my bike I have one of those cheapo JC Whitney travel trunks. It's the large one and it works great for packing my lunch and some extra clothes to work. I can even get 3 or 4 normal size plastic grocery bags in it when I go shopping with the bike. You see them on sale for really good deals occasionally. Another option a lot of guys use is the small Rubbermaid Actionpacker bolted to the back rack or a milk crate bungied to the rack. Lot's of different ways to haul with a KLR! :35a:

Oh! I was going to mention as well, if you want to see some different pannier options check out the Mermite Cans thread, all kinds of different options were thrown around in that thread :)
http://www.klrforum.com/showthread.php?t=14022
 
#19 · (Edited)
Update-------

Ordering the latches http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=11207109 in stainless steel to finish the one can. But with reading all the comments, the soft bags might be getting the modifications to make them "quick release" instead of bolt on. Spending more time on the cans has not been high on the list at the moment.
Like I said to start with, this is a LONG term feasibility/build project and I am wondering about the actual room also.

I currently have FirstGear ONYX series soft saddle bags ( http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/11/55/809/2746/ITEM/Firstgear-Onyx-Saddlebags.aspx )that are rated at 1,940 cubic inches compressed (8.3 US gallons, 31.7 liters). They expand out to to around 2,500 (10.8 US gallons,40.9 Liter)and the 20MM cans are rated at 2,185 cubic inches (9.4 US gallons, or 35.8 liters). The bags with the backing material are right at 6 pounds each. The ammo cans are at 14 pounds as they sit now, add latches and brackets, they'll be around 15 or so.
Enough info for all the tech guys out there?

I have modified the bags with cutting board material for a backing plate to bolt to the Wolfman side racks.


And the bags have pouches, netting, and hooks for keeping the gear organized and easy to get to. No, they are not waterproof or dust proof, but plastic bags for another 4-6 ounces cure that.



The tail bag adds another 2,500 cubic inches all expanded out, and I have strapped on the tent and sleeping pad along with a 4,200 cubic inch back pack instead of the tail bag for those long camping trips.

Sound like i'm talking myself out of the ammo cans yet? Planning a Arizona getaway in March to try everything out with the soft luggage and check the weatherproof & dust proof end of things.

Question, is dustproof/waterproof, no real capacity advantage, worth another 8 pounds EACH?

As it sits now....



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See you out there on the trail. More updates later.
 
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#21 ·
#24 ·
I have taken Tom Schmitz's advice and installed Volvo repelling caps on my rims.



I feel a lot safer now, and I picked up the Stainless models not the black ones.
Wouldn't want any of those Volvo owners thinking I had fully automatic assault caps.


The Project, received the latches today and it's raining. So out to the garage I go tomorrow.
 
#26 ·
:t1202: So sorry, please see posts #7 thru #10 about those. And they also work on more that Volvo's.


:35a: now out to the garage with some music to work on the latches.
 
#28 ·
i've always kept a core tool with my tire repair kit in my jeep. i dont use the caps like that. in my career.... i've seen many pranksters and disgruntled people use them to remove the cores leaving flats behind with no way to keep air in the tire.
 
#29 ·
I have one of the little pocket size screwdriver style core tool like they have at tire shops. WOrks great and is a handy tool for opening 12 oz cans, among other things. Campfire, I will have to try and show you what I'm working on for the quick release 20mm cans when you get here in March.
 
#31 ·
Thaylin, When I get this project a bit more off the drawing board and out of my head, I will post a whole thread on it. But in a nutshell, The ammo cans would be able to absorb the impact of say, a calf muscle with out being rigidly mounted and would also be removable for a hotel stay without knobs or wingnuts or tools.
 
#32 ·
Then I'm very interested, because what you describe is exactly how mine are mounted, and although I have been lucky, and haven't pinned my calf yet, it has come close. I use a lower bracket on my home made frame, and knobs on the inside to secure the top. I use normal pad locks at the moment to secure the lids, but am not happy with this stop gap measure, and will be figuring out a more elegant solution for locking them. Thanks.
 
#33 ·
Thanks Willys, I will enjoy seeing what you have in mind when I get down there next month.

The project received latches today, I ordered two stainless steel twist latches from Fastenall for the lids. My son suggested I use a piano hinge on one side or pin style hinge, but I pulled the lid completely off and put it on the ground.
"Portable cooking surface" I explained.

First I used a Dremel tool with a grinding wheel and cut a small slot into the end of the lid on bothe ends.



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Now here was the tricky part today. I had to place the latch to drill the holes with the right amount of pre-load so the lid will tighten down and seal.



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So a little trial & error proved that these little latches can supply some torque to keep the seal rather tight.



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Maybe too much from just the center pull on one latcBut it still seals up nice.



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Thanks for all the feedback on this project/study, and we'll see if the mounting ideas of the K.I.S.S principal (keep it simple stupid) are going to work out.
I'm really interested in seeing what 19willys51 has up his sleeve for the quik-mount idea. I found some great rubber bumpers at the truck parts place for rear mounted loading dock bumpers that could be carved out to fit my racks, but the darn things are over a pound each. Next idea...
 
#36 ·
Sorry for not responding faster Thaylin, but no. I made no cuts "into" the box area and the original seal is still all intact. I did hose the box off with a pretty good stream of the hose, and no leaks.
Note- holding off on anything else until I get back from Arizona and see 19Willys51's "quik-release" mounting system. That might change something I have planned.
 
#37 · (Edited)
OK, back at it now. The ride in Arizona was great and the soft bags worked just fine, and the load was minimal without all the camping gear.
I did drop it once and it just bounced on the bags like a pillow.

So.... The Feasibility Study continues. I had used some commercial truck impact bumpers on my son's Willys and remembered how solid rubber could work for some mounts.
I have pondered numerous bracket designs & materials. I had some aluminum stock and started to drill some elongated holes to grab the Wolfman racks, but wanted some insulation for vibration.



A Sawzall with a rough blade, and a 3/4" wood bit turning slow did a pretty good job cutting and drilling the rubber.



Mounting the piece at the bottom of the ammo can, I drilled a total of three holes in the side of the can. I used two bolts at the top, and the rubber mount at the bottom.
I had thought about two mounts on each side, but weight is whole goal here.



Grabbing the other can for now, I ground off one of the side braces. I just left the lid intact with the existing latches for now.
Drilling the other can with the exact same pattern :D I mounted up both cans and the freaking things are unequal side to side as far as the angles go. :mad0235:



Oh well........... conversation topics, right?

And on that note; I did drill the holes 3" from one edge, and 4.5" from the other edge so I can swap them side to side & getting a 1.5" adjustment front to rear for weight.



Tomorrow I'm heading down for some nice hardware to bolt everything on, and test ride it. Already feels heavy.

 
#38 ·
UPDATE-------

I know they were going to add weight, but to give you a better idea of what 30 lbs of steel hanging off your back end is like.
I measured the height of the bike with the panniers on (almost center line of the rear axle to the top of the rear rack) and it was 36 & 3/4".
With the panniers off, the rack was up at 37 & 7/8".

If I plan on loading these up for camping, a new shock with heavier spring is in the future.

Took them off for paint and to complete the other can weight reduction.
 
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