The Doohickey got fixed on the Gen2 bikes, right? Ah, but the spring, the spring.... - Page 2 - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

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post #11 of 76 Old 02-20-2013, 11:09 AM
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Yet again....another trolling post from our resident troll .....it seems...carry on and lets see how fast you can ruin another good thread???

As I have said before this started out as a great way to discribe this issue.....it fully shows the problem.....nothing to hide...plain and simple.

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post #12 of 76 Old 02-20-2013, 11:35 AM
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Nice

Good video thanks for posting.
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post #13 of 76 Old 02-20-2013, 11:45 AM
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Question?

What exactly failed? No humor here but what caused the failure? The spring broke? Sprink got weak? Did the mounting point of the spring fail? Did it just come off? I cant see the video clear enough to tell. Work locks u-tube so I am viewing on a cell phone.....

Why replace the lever if nothing is wrong with it? Can only the spring be replaced and whats that procedure? I have been told to use the torsion spring you have to grind some material on the lever?
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post #14 of 76 Old 02-20-2013, 11:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moriver View Post
What exactly failed? No humor here but what caused the failure? The spring broke? Sprink got weak? Did the mounting point of the spring fail? Did it just come off? I cant see the video clear enough to tell. Work locks u-tube so I am viewing on a cell phone.....

Why replace the lever if nothing is wrong with it? Can only the spring be replaced and whats that procedure? I have been told to use the torsion spring you have to grind some material on the lever?

Basically the factory springs do not have sufficient tension in them to keep the doohickey lever adjusted. I believe that you can retain the factory lever and replace it with a spring that Eagle Mike supplies with his Doohickey lever. Don't know if he sells the springs separately. I am not talking about the torsion spring. That's an optional item either way and you seem to be aware of what is required to use that with a factory lever.

Long story short. To change the spring you need to remove the lever anyway. Why not replace it with a better one and be done with it. It's not rocket science folks and we're talking $40 which I'm sure most of us can afford.

.

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Last edited by klr4evr; 02-20-2013 at 12:12 PM.
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post #15 of 76 Old 02-20-2013, 12:05 PM
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I dont agree. Although they machine the lever now, it's fit on the shaft is not adequate and even with an upgraded spring of any type the sloppy fit allows the lever to move and vibrate, compromising the spring.
I am with Willys. We can beat this issue into the ground but we all know the are still problems with the system. Just upgrade everything already. I now put this doohickey discussion in with oil and tires... It has been beat to death enough that it is becoming comical.....
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post #16 of 76 Old 02-20-2013, 12:18 PM
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I dont agree. Although they machine the lever now, it's fit on the shaft is not adequate and even with an upgraded spring of any type the sloppy fit allows the lever to move and vibrate, compromising the spring.
I am with Willys. We can beat this issue into the ground but we all know the are still problems with the system. Just upgrade everything already. I now put this doohickey discussion in with oil and tires... It has been beat to death enough that it is becoming comical.....
I agree. That's what I was basically trying to say.

There are folks that don't want to spend the money on the EM lever and changing the spring is all they want to do. I know a few and it's been done. So that option is there should that be they way you want to go. There will always be someone who goes against conventional wisdom and bucks the trend.

And ya I've heard about as much about Doohickeys as I ever want to hear. This is one horse that just won't die.


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post #17 of 76 Old 02-20-2013, 02:03 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by moriver View Post
What exactly failed? No humor here but what caused the failure? The spring broke? Sprink got weak? Did the mounting point of the spring fail? Did it just come off? I cant see the video clear enough to tell. Work locks u-tube so I am viewing on a cell phone.....

Why replace the lever if nothing is wrong with it? Can only the spring be replaced and whats that procedure? I have been told to use the torsion spring you have to grind some material on the lever?
I'll reiterate what KLR4ever and SkiBumBrian have said as an intro to personal comment.

There has never been a documented failure of a Balancer Adjustment Lever on a Gen2 bike ever ever ever in the whole wide world. It's all better now.

The spring is now the weak point and is well known for going slack quickly and some have reported them as slack before the first oil change. I have no cite for that, but it must be true because I read it on the Internet.

This bike is new to me at 16,000 miles and still has an extended warranty that was transferred to me and is good for two more years. I could have let the whole thing go and relied on the warranty to repair anything that went wrong with it.

In my tool box I have several of Mike's extension springs. I could have gone in there and left the stock lever in place and merely put a new spring in. The engineer in me agrees with Brian, though. The stock lever doesn't fit that well on the shaft, which allows the shaft to oscillate, putting the spring through many cycles. Engineers don't like the things they rely on to oscillate or vibrate un-necessarily as that leads to component failure. Engineers don't like that even when there is not a single case of documented failure. The potential is scary enough, for engineers are worry warts with furrowed brows who curse the accountants that keep them from making everything totally bitchin'.

What I want in a balancer chain tensioner system is one that I don't ever have to think about again. Seriously - I don't want to take that damn rotor off ever again. I'm old; my shoulders have arthritis and I can barely get the bolt back up to proper torque. I'd much rather be doing something else, even if it is equally stupid. Alas, with the KLR that is not possible because the basic design is a Rube Goldberg affair that no self-respecting engineer would think of except in some sort of acid-induced nightmarish flashback. Cue the Jefferson Airplane tracks...

The closest we can come to set and forget is Mike's lever and his torsion spring.

Sure, you can get out your Dremel tool and put a groove in it and use the torsion spring with it. It's your time, your part, your bike. If you have modest talent with tools the job will turn out fine, though the lever will still fit a bit sloppy on the shaft. If that doesn't bother you, have at it.

You can just put in a new spring and keep an eye on it and go back in at some point in the future should that one, too, become slack. Mike gives you a couple different lengths.

The way I figure it, though, is that once you're far enough in to the engine to remove the stock spring, you have already invested a couple hours of time, bought a pair of gaskets, a new rotor bolt, and have gone to the trouble to get the tools required. Why in the Wide Wide World of Sports wouldn't you just take the easy way out and install a spring and lever that are designed to work together and have a pretty fair track record for an additional $40?

Hey! Who moved my horse while I was talkin'? Here I am, beating on a warm soggy spot where a dead horse once lay....

T
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Last edited by Tom Schmitz; 02-20-2013 at 02:06 PM.
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post #18 of 76 Old 02-20-2013, 02:28 PM
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Very well said, eloquently and diplomatically..... Tom for office!!!!
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post #19 of 76 Old 02-20-2013, 03:04 PM
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Thanks Tom

Thanks for the details Tom. I am one of those that the old "Just do it because someone said it needs done" holds no water. What I know is below on this subject.

1- I now really fully understand the Doo, its problems, why it fails on both types of bikes, why you have to grind the factory lever (kind of) and why its easier to just replace the lever and spring at the same time.

2 - If you question the Doo and its need for replacement some get hot around the neckline. Of those that have that problem I think about half of them know what they are talking about, the other half just read it and now are the online experts if you will.

3 - Do you know what some lawn mower engines, countless 900 inch diesel engines, a bunch of car engines, many automatic transmissions, enough rear end gears to gag a dog off a gut wagon just to name a few have in common with the "DOO"? Nothing.. I have never done the DOO. I will however now that I understand it.
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post #20 of 76 Old 02-20-2013, 06:46 PM
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Hey Bruce! Good to see you over here.... Thanks for the compliments. Most of the KLR community enjoy helping our brothers. We pass on our experiences and acquired knowledge to those who need the insight and will listen. KLRists are a rare breed, holding our inexpensive steeds high for all to see and are not intimidated or embarrassed when compared to KTMs and Beemers.... We are here to help, we have differences of opinion at times but we are all part of the KLR family. There are those that wish to irritate and be judgemental but then we must town the other cheek....
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